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The Long Island Larder: Cheesecake Three Ways

“Man is an epicure just as he is an artist, a scholar, a poet. The palate . . . is as delicate and susceptible of training as the eye or ear, and equally deserving of respect.”  — Guy de Maupassant, Madame Husson’s Rose-king 

Apr 5, 1990
The Long Island Larder: Winter Vegetable Stew

"Memory recalls dishes that have pleased the taste; imagination pretends to see them; there is something dreamlike about the whole process." — "On Appetite," Brillat-Savarin

Here we are — locked in the drears of January with nothing much active and pleasurable to do. Except cook! And think about food we shouldn't have and still stick to the traditional New Year's vow to lose 10 pounds.

Jan 25, 1990
Edible Delights: When Flowers Are Ingredients

Flowers, with their sweet fragrances and riotous color, are balm for the senses and for the eye. Of late, nouvelle-trendy watering spots have introduced them as stylish garnish and amusing nibbles. Less known is the fact that flowers were a common and popular ingredient in recipes in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries.

Mar 23, 1989
Recipe: Tarte Tatin

Here's a French version of apple pie alleged to have been invented by two spinsters who ran a rustic restaurant in Lamotte-Beauvron, a hamlet not far from Paris.

Dec 8, 1988
Recipe: "Hermits," or Spice-Laden Cookies

"Hermits" are chewy, spice-laden cookies that date back to early 19th-century cookery in America, and there are many variations on the basic recipe.

Nov 25, 1988
The Long Island Larder: White Chocolate Mousse Pie, 1988

Except for Easter basket bunnies, white chocolate used to be relatively difficult to find, but the Nestle Com­pany produces a “baking bar” carried in most supermarkets.

Mar 31, 1988
In Season: Hors d'Oeuvres Invented, But Not Bizarre

Hors d'oeuvres demand attention.

Feb 12, 1976
In Season: Springtime Shell Game

If there is ever an egg season, it occurs now, in early spring. The symbolism of germinating, hatching and rebirth was celebrated by primitive man and embraced by modern religions. The folklore, if not the ritual, of Easter rejoices in the egg. In every Christian nation it becomes an artform, its culinary attributes outdistanced by the spell of talented brush. 

Mar 27, 1975
Figments of Christmas

"Whoever heard of Christmas without dried figs?" (Is that anything like New Year's Eve without a date?)

Dec 13, 1973
In Season: Winter Squash Are Vitamin-Rich

Before the many farm stands were boarded up for the winter, they displayed a handsome crop of winter squashes. Some even found their way into the produce departments of the chains. The pumpkins to be sure, but also hubbards with warty shells in shades of red, some small, some immense.

The gray hubbards looked unfinished, like concrete awaiting a coat of enamel. Turban squash, an apt name for the prettily striped and puffed shape, was a centerpiece on many tables.

Jan 18, 1973