Skip to main content

Food

In Season: More Strawberries

We are not devotees of strawberry ice cream—except when it is freshly made from freshly gathered strawberries. Several years ago I bought one of those small Salton ice cream makers. The idea of not having to fuss with rock salt and ice, of being able to tuck it into the freezer to do its work, appealed to me. A roast or two has to be removed to make room for it but that is not a problem—we're talking about two hours at the most. 

Jun 24, 1976
In Season: Hors d'Oeuvres Invented, But Not Bizarre

Hors d'oeuvres demand attention.

Feb 12, 1976
In Season: Springtime Shell Game

If there is ever an egg season, it occurs now, in early spring. The symbolism of germinating, hatching and rebirth was celebrated by primitive man and embraced by modern religions. The folklore, if not the ritual, of Easter rejoices in the egg. In every Christian nation it becomes an artform, its culinary attributes outdistanced by the spell of talented brush. 

Mar 27, 1975
In Season: A Big Antipasto Spread

"The season" is upon us now. What sorts of terrific wonders can we suggest instead of the mountains of tender, chilled shrimp, creamy cartwheels of ripe Brie, buckets of tangy dip surrounded by kaleidoscopes of raw vegetables and stacks of crackers and chips, and endless rafts of pink ham slices carefully fanned out and artfully garnished? What new goodies can you offer during the next three months to the parched and ravenous mobs thronging your deck or lawn amid the non-existent clink of disposable plastic glassware?

May 30, 1974
Figments of Christmas

"Whoever heard of Christmas without dried figs?" (Is that anything like New Year's Eve without a date?)

Dec 13, 1973
In Season: Winter Squash Are Vitamin-Rich

Before the many farm stands were boarded up for the winter, they displayed a handsome crop of winter squashes. Some even found their way into the produce departments of the chains. The pumpkins to be sure, but also hubbards with warty shells in shades of red, some small, some immense.

The gray hubbards looked unfinished, like concrete awaiting a coat of enamel. Turban squash, an apt name for the prettily striped and puffed shape, was a centerpiece on many tables.

Jan 18, 1973
Man's Recipe: Azabiah's Oatmeal Nut Cookies

I was reading a magazine article, the other day about colors and how they affect the appetite. Seems a man with a flair for experimenting got together a group of guests and seated them at a table with tempting foods. The guests were hungry and looking ahead to good meal. Then this experimenter turned on some special lights. The steak turned drab gray; the green celery looked pink, and the coffee become a muddy yellow. Most of the guests couldn't cat the food at all: yet it was precisely the same food they first saw in natural and appealing colors.

Jun 12, 1958
A Man’s Recipe for Cornbread

This isn’t a complicated cornbread formula, but the secret of its appeal, judging by the way our friends and neighbors eat at our Saturday and Sunday suppers — is the touch of allspice. Offhand, I don’t recall seeing any cornbread recipe calling for allspice. 

Apr 26, 1956