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Food

In Season: Springtime Shell Game

If there is ever an egg season, it occurs now, in early spring. The symbolism of germinating, hatching and rebirth was celebrated by primitive man and embraced by modern religions. The folklore, if not the ritual, of Easter rejoices in the egg. In every Christian nation it becomes an artform, its culinary attributes outdistanced by the spell of talented brush. 

Mar 27, 1975
In Season: Blazing Salads

Tomatoes were originally grown to be admired rather than consumed. When the tomato was first imported to Europe from the New World by the Spanish conquistadors, it was considered a decorative plant; pretty but inedible, possibly poisonous. And that was long before Florida farmers shipped them green or doused them with pesticides. 

Aug 1, 1974
In Season: A Big Antipasto Spread

"The season" is upon us now. What sorts of terrific wonders can we suggest instead of the mountains of tender, chilled shrimp, creamy cartwheels of ripe Brie, buckets of tangy dip surrounded by kaleidoscopes of raw vegetables and stacks of crackers and chips, and endless rafts of pink ham slices carefully fanned out and artfully garnished? What new goodies can you offer during the next three months to the parched and ravenous mobs thronging your deck or lawn amid the non-existent clink of disposable plastic glassware?

May 30, 1974
Figments of Christmas

"Whoever heard of Christmas without dried figs?" (Is that anything like New Year's Eve without a date?)

Dec 13, 1973
In Season: Winter Squash Are Vitamin-Rich

Before the many farm stands were boarded up for the winter, they displayed a handsome crop of winter squashes. Some even found their way into the produce departments of the chains. The pumpkins to be sure, but also hubbards with warty shells in shades of red, some small, some immense.

The gray hubbards looked unfinished, like concrete awaiting a coat of enamel. Turban squash, an apt name for the prettily striped and puffed shape, was a centerpiece on many tables.

Jan 18, 1973
In Season: Pears — So What if They're Not Local?

Forget everything I've ever said about growers and wholesalers devising ways to pick and ship produce while it is still green and how this works to the advantage of everyone but the consumer. The pear is the exception.

Sep 21, 1972
In Season: Curiously Refreshing Cucumbers

You've probably been eating local cucumbers for weeks. They have been with us since July and the season isn't over yet. There was a time, in early August, when you would have had trouble finding a cucumber that wasn't local. You could easily identify the outsiders by their excessively dark and shiny skins.

Sep 14, 1972
In Season: Tomatoes — No Excuses

Real tomatoes, grown out of doors and in the sunshine, tasting juicy and fresh, are everywhere. Buy them; you have no excuses.

Aug 31, 1972
Man's Recipe: Azabiah's Oatmeal Nut Cookies

I was reading a magazine article, the other day about colors and how they affect the appetite. Seems a man with a flair for experimenting got together a group of guests and seated them at a table with tempting foods. The guests were hungry and looking ahead to good meal. Then this experimenter turned on some special lights. The steak turned drab gray; the green celery looked pink, and the coffee become a muddy yellow. Most of the guests couldn't cat the food at all: yet it was precisely the same food they first saw in natural and appealing colors.

Jun 12, 1958
Phil Magoon’s Goulash

I wonder how many of us to stop to think when we are preparing tasty satisfying dish such as this how good a friend the onion is to cook. Some happy day a perceptive food writer will do a definitive monograph on the onion that will rank with Lamb’s essay on roast pork.

Jun 27, 1957
A Man’s Recipe for Cornbread

This isn’t a complicated cornbread formula, but the secret of its appeal, judging by the way our friends and neighbors eat at our Saturday and Sunday suppers — is the touch of allspice. Offhand, I don’t recall seeing any cornbread recipe calling for allspice. 

Apr 26, 1956