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Food

Long Island Larder: Fettuccini in Herb Sauce

This recipe is for fresh, and only fresh, pasta. All herbs used must be fresh as well or this dish is hardly worth making. It is so very simple, you can’t cheat.

Jun 27, 1985
Fish Mousse With Oyster Sauce, 1985

Either cod or flounder are good local choices for the fish mousse — almost any firm, fresh white fish will do. Naturally one would not choose expensive striped bass; that would be like making hamburgers out of ground filet mignon.

Mar 7, 1985
The Long Island Larder: Charcoal-Grilled Beef Tenderloin

When the first gas ranges were introduced in France about the middle of the 19th century, they were greatly distrusted. Meat baked in an oven was despised by Alexandre Dumas, who decreed that all food in his household be prepared on wood or charcoal fires. Grill cooks (rotisseurs) feared to lose their livelihood.

Jun 14, 1984
Long Island Larder: Aioli Garni

"Garlic's taste is briefest pleasure—
Eat in haste, repent at leisure.
Garlic's like the poor, like sorrow—
Here today and here tomorrow."

-Justin Richardson, from an anthology by William Cole, "...And Be Merry"

May 31, 1984
Long Island Larder: Wild Mushroom Meatloaf

Dried black mushrooms from Japan and spicy, pungent French chanterelles make this a meatloaf for royals. As well it might, since the imported dried mushrooms cost a king’s ransom.

Mar 11, 1982
In Season: Strawberry Season, And How

Eaten plain or with yogurt for breakfast or lunch and involved in more elaborate desserts for dinner, strawberries are hardly tiring, even on a daily basis. The season is too short for that. Here is a strawberry shortcake that can be prepared in a trice.

Jun 21, 1979
In Season: Grilled Chicken With Mustard Sauce

As soon as the weather warms (and the rains cease — a dove with a sprig of impatiens landed on my windowsill, indicating the waters are about to subside), thoughts turn to the pleasures of outdoor dining The barbecue season, perfuming the air with the aroma of charbroil and keeping the heat out of the kitchen, has arrived.

Jun 7, 1979
In Season: Summertime Pizza

Pizza may be a year-round staple, but in the summer season it can take on a special bright freshness. Now is the time. Herbs, fresh tomatoes or even a little ratatouille discovered while rummaging in the refrigerator are wonderful additions, providing you make the pizza yourself, an activity that allows for creative innovations and saves on gasoline. 

May 24, 1979
In Season: The Mighty Mussel

Mussels, readily available now that the weather and water are beginning to warm, are yet to find as popular a place on menus here as clams. Perhaps if the Indians had started the colonists off with a mussels bake, the history of seafood consumption would have been totally different.

May 10, 1979
In Season: Chocolate Yogurt Ring, 1979

Although at least 100 chocolate cake recipes have passed through my ovens in 18 years of marriage to a chocoholic, I know I have scarcely scratched the surface of possibilities in this enchanting subject. While many of these have become favorites, I’m just as ready to try something new.

Feb 15, 1979
In Season: Wonderful Walnut Wheat Bread

Whole wheat has finally become upper crust. Dark, earthy loaves of bread formerly shunned by everyone except peasants, nutritionists, and other dangerous types, have been welcomed at the tables of quality. The about-face is made complete by the fact that whole grain breads now cost more than once fancy white.

Jan 18, 1979
In Season: Bluefish Two Ways

Is there a better East End summer dish than chilled fish or seafood? And think of the possibilities! With a big advance from your publisher or the profit from that lot you sold in Sagaponack you could buy a few shrimp.

Jul 6, 1978