Food

Thai at Old Whalers

    Thai food will be on the table at Sag Harbor’s Old Whalers Church tonight, when the sous chef from Phao restaurant prepares a sampling of dishes such as summer rolls, lemongrass soup, pad Thai, and coconut ice cream. The event, part of a series called East End Chefs, will begin at 6:30 p.m. and cost $30. Space is limited. Advance reservations can be made by calling the church.

Restaurant Roulette

    There is always lots of restaurant news in the mad scramble toward Memorial Day. Here’s this week’s scoop.

Primed Beachhouse

Spring Openings

    The annual springtime parade of seasonal restaurant reopenings continues this week.

    The Hideaway will show its Mexican roots by offering food and drink specials at its 2011 premiere tonight, for Cinco de Mayo. The restaurant is at the Diamond Cove Marina in Montauk.

Tomorrow might be a good time for a jaunt east, with a couple of stops that will remind you that winter is truly over, and summer on the way.

On Easter Sunday

    Easter Sunday brunch and dinner menus at numerous restaurants will feature fresh springtime fare this weekend.

    At the Southampton Publick House, a noon to 2:30 p.m. brunch will be followed by a three-course Easter dinner prix fixe for $25 plus tax and gratuity, served from 3 to 9 p.m. A la carte dishes will also be available. Entree choices will include leg of lamb, half of a roasted Long Island duck, pan-seared monkfish, shrimp tempura, and New York sirloin steak. Reservations have been recommended.

For Passover

    Homemade gefilte fish and other items for Passover are available now at Stuart’s Seafood Market in Amagansett. Orders can be called in for baked goods, noodle kugel, and full custom dinners.

Thanks, From Astro’s

Pizza rustica, an Italian Eastertime specialty — a savory pie made with eggs and Italian meats and cheeses — is available this month at Food and Co. in East Hampton, where Pasquale’s Home­­made has set up shop and is offering all kinds of traditional homemade foods, including roast chicken and pizzas.

    Also on Sag Harbor’s Bay Street, the Dockside Bar and Grill will reopen for the season today. It will be serving lunch and dinner daily, except on Tuesday and Wednesday, plus brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

   Things are looking up for sure when Saturdays bring the chance to visit a farmers market. Given the season, the Sag Harbor Farmers Winter Market will be held indoors weekly from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through mid-May at 34 Bay Street, a building across from the Breakwater Yacht Club. Local vendors will be selling preserves, pastas, wine, cheese, baked good and other treats, and handcrafted gifts.

When I make granola I add almonds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, sesame, and flax, all healthy . . . if a bit fattening. Try different kinds of nuts and see which you like the best. They are often more affordable bought in bulk at health food stores but be sure there is a high turnover, they can get stale quickly.

 I love to cook but I also like shortcuts. I am not averse to using the occasional cake mix, envelope of Knorr sauce, cube of bouillon, or box of frozen white corn. These convenience foods deserve a place in every pantry and freezer.

Jack Mazzola’s organic fair-trade coffee company has expanded into roomier quarters in Amagansett Square.

It’s a pity this is the only time of year we start to think about cranberries. Chances are, the only time any of us eat them is in their canned or jellied form, courtesy of Ocean Spray, a

Cod is like the cotton of the seafood world. It is bland, it is white, and it is everywhere, but it is a healthy, lean, and mild, sweet-tasting fish.

Mussels could be considered the pasta of the bivalve mollusk world. They are cheap, versatile, and easy to cook. Last night I had them in coconut broth with lemongrass and lime wedges served alongside. Tonight a friend is going to prepare them in a Thai green curry sauce. They are abundant in many parts of world and particularly revered in Belgium and France, where they are served with French fries as moules et frites.

I eat a lot more vegetables and whole grains than meat. If I were to sit down and analyze my diet, it would almost seem vegetarian. Nutrition is important to me, but I don’t obsess about foods, fats, cholesterol, mercury, carbohydrates, acai (Oprah’s miracle fruit!), corn syrup, tapeworms, sugar, blue and orange fruits, lead in my ancient crockery, or anything else that 90 percent of the people I know worry about.

I read recently that Spam is making a comeback. Is this because times are hard and buying a canned pork product that requires no refrigeration is some people’s idea of a way to save money and feed their families a balanced diet? Or is it a retro return to the foods of our youth that gave us some comfort? Perhaps a little of both. 

What could be better than a summer meal of lobster, corn, and tomatoes? The lobster and corn merely need to be steamed and perhaps buttered generously, the tomatoes sliced and dressed. Couldn’t be simpler.

One of the things I love best about spring vegetables is how beautifully they go together. Peas and spearmint are a match made in heaven. Asparagus and morels combine a sprightly green flavor with a mild earthy one. In Provence, spring is celebrated with a fricassee of artichokes, fava beans, peas, and asparagus.

This recipe is great with roasted or grilled spring lamb. I kind of made this one up. It is best if the peas are small.

Sweet Spearmint Peas

Looking for some Valentine’s Day inspiration the other day, I ventured into one of those mega-blocklong-bookstores. Surely there will be a lovely display of Rumi’s love poems, Shakespeare’s sonnets, or perhaps some bodice-ripper novels. Anais Nin? 

Will Jordin Sparks have a wardrobe malfunction while singing the national anthem? Will Tom Brady be able to play? Will his gazelle of a girlfriend, Gisele Bundchen, be an albatross as Jessica Simpson has been for Tony Romo? Will I have enough spicy chicken wings to last through the halftime show? Is my TV screen big enough? 

These are the burning questions gnawing away at me in anticipation of Super Bowl XLII. 

Baking homemade holiday treats is one of my favorite traditions. Cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg are as much holiday scents to me as pine, balsam, and paperwhite narcissus.

Shared recipes. Old, old family recipes. What a treasure trove of history! I couldn’t wait to dig into them. Some had helpful notes scribbled on them. One even had “very bad recipe” scrawled on it, and yet it had been saved with the others to live on.

The name “soul food” gained popularity in the 1960s when the word "soul" became associated with all things African-American. But its origins go way back to the Antebellum period, when slaves in the South would create meals out of discarded meat parts (pig’s feet, ham hocks, tripe) and the tossed-away leafy tops of vegetables such as beets and turnips, and otherwise would rely on whatever they could catch, fish, or farm for their meals.

I got a great recipe for granola from a famous bakery in Los Angeles last year. I have fiddled with it so much, this is now my recipe. Besides, I've conveniently forgotten the name of the bakery. I even put this granola on top of salads!

Football for a person who likes to cook is an excuse to pull out an arsenal of retro junky recipes. Chile con queso made with Velveeta cheese! Deviled shrimp! Guacamole, chips ’n’ dips galore! Buffalo wings, spicy killer chili with corn bread. I think the only requirements for being appropriate football food is it must be fattening and easy to pick up.

Ireland is the only other country I know of that has any special food for Halloween. There’s a famous dish made with potatoes. Dawdling along through my treasured Irish cookbook by the doyenne of Irish cookery, Theodora Fitzgibbon, I came upon some recipes and lore about my favorite Irish dish: colcannon.

Wine labels are highly regulated by the federal government, more methodically even than food labels. It is mandatory to identify in some detail at least seven items, some so boring that it led to the invention of a second label on the back of the bottle to split the tedium and give us a bit of relief and respite while reading the primary label.

My major point in a recent column about storing wines was that there is a difference between keeping wines for up to a few years in a condition where they are ready to drink and aging important wines for the future. Even if you are doing both, serving wines correctly is at least as important as how they were stored.

These savory potatoes could serve as a main course for lunch with just a small green salad to balance their richness. They’re really much too interesting to play second fiddle in a meal. Select large, blemishless Idaho baking potatoes for this dish.