The beauty of the restaurant Yama Q in Bridgehampton is that it doesn’t need a review by me or anyone, good or bad. It doesn’t need to have a tattooed, surfer-celebrity chef profile in Hamptons magazine. You won’t read about Beth and Howard Stern slurping miso soup and chomping on burdock salad on Page Six of the New York Post. Nor is it likely that as the Kardashians cut a visible and terrifying swath through our charming villages this summer they will ever cross the threshold of Yama Q. Yama Q is pure and quaint, virtuous, quiet, and fine.