Food

   With the confidence that comes from years of first-hand food experience around the world — having lived and worked in France, Morocco, Italy, Vietnam, Argentina, Thailand, and India — Livia Hegner is clearly her own boss. However, the name of her Sag Harbor food shop, Pepalajefa, which means Pepa the Boss, refers not to Ms. Hegner, but to another restaurant owner she knew in Spain.

    Pepalajefa is Ms. Hegner’s dream come to fruition, offering a gourmet sampling from around the world, served in a to-go container or catered to a beach, boat, or home.

    Nick and Toni’s reopened on Friday after undergoing an interior renovation.

    This week’s column has been let off the leash. We are going to talk about what you feed your dog.

    First of all, what ever happened to the good old days when your dog happily thrived on kibble from the grocery store, Milk Bones for treats, and the occasional table scrap? Well, in the good old days we also didn’t wear seat belts, pregnant women drank alcohol, and doctors would smoke in their offices. We know better now. Or do we?

   The familiar sights and sounds of children and families talking and laughing as they munch on pizza and sip soda returned to Fierro’s Pizza last Thursday. Al Fierro, a co-founder of the pizzeria, which opened at 104 Park Place in East Hampton in 1983, was back behind the counter, along with Stephen Hickey, his new business partner. A portrait of Mr. Fierro’s father, Albert Fierro Jr., looked down from a wall by the counter and a Yankees preseason game played out on the television overhead. All was right in this little slice of the universe.

    Hamptons Restaurant Week begins on Sunday and brings an opportunity to sample the fare at restaurants from Eastport to Montauk, including the North Fork, at a discounted price.

    From Sunday through April 14, all participating restaurants will offer a three-course prix fixe, most for $27.95, although a couple of eateries will offer a $19.95 option. The special will be available all night every night except Saturday, when it will be offered only until 7 p.m.

    It is said that John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich, “invented” the sandwich while locked in a 24-hour card game. Nowadays, Gamblers Anonymous would have a field day with this. What, he couldn’t stop gambling long enough to fortify himself? All he did was ask his valet to put meat between two slices of bread so his cards wouldn’t get all greasy. His cronies started ordering “the same as Sandwich,” and hence the name was born.

    The traditional foods of Umbria will be the focus of the next in a series of Italian cooking classes offered at the Loaves and Fishes cooking school in Bridgehampton. On the menu for the class, which takes place Saturday from 6 to 9 p.m., is homemade fettuccine with shaved truffles, stuffed pork tenderloin with a wine sauce, asparagus wrapped in pancetta, and Perugia nut cake with chocolate gelato. The cost is $165.

Lobster Roll Rumble

Oeufs en Meurette

    This recipe is from the now defunct Peter Kump New York Cooking School. Oeufs en meurette are a Burgundian specialty of poached eggs in red wine sauce.

    Serves six.

6 large eggs, poached

1 Tbsp. each of classic mirepoix (finely diced carrots, celery, onion, and ham)

8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, clarified

2 to 3 cups hearty red wine, Burgundy is preferred

Bouquet garni

1 to 2 Tbsp. beurre manie (butter that is kneaded with equal parts flour)

6 slices bread

1 clove garlic, peeled

     Eggs are delicious. Eggs are boring. Eggs are a perfect little package of protein. Eggs can be dangerous. Eggs are good for you. No, they’re bad for you. All of these things are true. Eggs are confusing!

    As a cook and someone interested in nutrition, I believe in the sunny side of eggs. As a pastry chef, I constantly marvel at the egg’s ability to be transformed into a light and airy souffle or meringue or a rich custard or ice cream. They are simple; they are complicated.

Located on North Ferry Road, 18 Bay is in a lovely restored farmhouse with big windows and a covered porch. There is a wood-burning stove at the entrance, a bar in the middle, and about 12 tables all around.

    This week’s food news includes options for upcoming spring religious holidays.

    At Stuart’s Seafood market in Amagansett, Charlotte Sasso has her homemade gefilte fish and horseradish available. Other Passover specialties, which must be pre-ordered, include brisket, latkes, and kosher noodle kugel. Stuart’s is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., except on Tuesday.

    For those ready to make reservations for an Easter Sunday restaurant dinner, Cafe Max in East Hampton will be serving a three-course holiday meal for $30 beginning at 1 p.m. on March 31.

    In Montauk, the Coast restaurant, which has reopened for dinners on Thursdays through Saturdays, will also be open this week on Sunday, when the Friends of Erin holds their annual St. Patrick’s Day parade. From 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., the bar will be open and a takeout menu featuring soups, stews, reuben sandwiches, and more, will be offered. Tonight will bring the second in a series of family trivia nights at the Coast, with a prix fixe meal offered to adults for $20 and to children for $10, along with an opportunity to compete on a trivia team.

    Last week I offered up the first five of my 10 favorite cookbooks, now for the second.

    I had meant to include a “Silver Palate” cookbook but which one? They are all good, and were revolutionary for their time, but I simply couldn’t choose. I am also partial to my little collection of historical cookbooks: Thomas Jefferson’s “Congressional Wives” and “The First Ladies Cookbook,” but none stood out in particular. So I have narrowed my list down to two marvelous French cookbooks, another dessert cookbook, one “Barefoot Contessa,” and one purely for the kitsch factor.

Salade Tourangelle

    This recipe from “The Taste of France” is more of a guideline, and does not give measurements. Each vegetable is prepared separately but served together on the same platter.

Asparagus tips, cooked and sprinkled with a vinaigrette made with walnut oil and white wine vinegar to which you have added salt and pepper, some finely chopped shallots and a little chopped parsley

Cooked artichoke hearts, with a stronger vinaigrette containing mustard, chopped fresh tarragon, chives, chervil, parsley, and salt and pepper

Now For Home

    The tomato sauce prepared and used at Astro Pizza and Felice’s Restaurant, the side-by-side Italian spots in ­Amagansett, can now be purchased for use at home, and even ordered by mail. Containers come in two sizes: 16 ounces for $5.50 and 36 ounces for $7.50. Homemade pizza dough and the restaurants’ homemade balsamic vinaigrette dressing are also available in takeout packages.

Heating Up

   I have a huge cookbook collection. I am constantly editing, but the collection grows. People give me books, I buy more. I am first in line at the cookbook booth at the Ladies Village Improvement ­Society Fair. I have even bought back books I donated to the L.V.I.S. That’s mental.

Lovage and Apple Stuffed Roast Chicken

    Here is Lee Bailey’s recipe. I substitute celery leaves for lovage.

    Serves six.

2 21/2-lb. chickens

1 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. black pepper

1 cup butter, softened

1 handful lovage

1 large cooking apple, peeled and cored

Gravy:

1 Tbsp. butter, softened

2 Tbsp. flour

1 cup chicken stock, heated

1 Tbsp. chopped chives

Highway Diner and Bar

290 Montauk Highway

East Hampton

631-324-0130

Sunday through Thursday,

10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Friday and Saturday,

10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

   I had been wanting to try the Highway Diner and Bar ever since it opened. Every time I drive by, it is packed. The concept is genius — an affordable, kid-friendly diner by day, a bit more of a cool hangout at night.

    Rick Bogush, the garden manager at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton, will present “Cooking With Herbs, Part Two” on Sunday at the Bridgehampton Community House. The event will take place from 2 to 4 p.m. Admission is free to Bridge Gardens members, and $15 for others. Reservations have been requested, as space is limited, and can be made by calling the offices of the Peconic Land Trust, which is sponsoring the event, or by sending an e-mail to [email protected].

Italian Cooking

   The idea sprouted two summers ago in his Amagansett backyard with a seed planted by his ex-girlfriend, and now Brendan Davison grows certified organic microgreens at his Good Water Farms in East Hampton and hand-delivers trays of them to top-notch restaurants on the East End and in New York.

Memorial Dinner

    Reservations are being taken for the Joshua Levine memorial dinner, to be sponsored by Slow Food East End on March 24.

    The event honors the life of Mr. Levine, who was a member of the East End farming community. Last year’s dinner raised approximately $18,000 that provided stipends to three master farmers who worked with the Edible School Garden program on the East End.

    From local restaurants to the most exclusive hotels, the Southampton company Plain-T has grown over its eight years to serve clients around the world whether they’re looking for an assortment of favorites in a single box or large orders of custom-created corporate gifts.

    Last summer Plain-T launched iced tea in black, green, white, and red, with no additives, preservatives, or sweeteners. The glass bottles were well received, even with their short shelf life.

    Reservations can still be made for tonight’s candlelight dinner for two at Gurney’s Inn in Montauk. In case your date misses the hint, the menu choices include heart-shaped ravioli, oysters, and passion fruit mousse. The $150 per couple tariff includes a bottle of champagne and a red rose.

Zokkon

47 Montauk Highway

East Hampton

631-729-9821

Sunday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

   First there was Bamboo, then Shiki, now Zok­kon. The charming little building on Montauk Highway in East Hampton has been taken over by the folks at Suki Zuki in Water Mill. Not much has changed in the way of decor. The pillars gracing the entrance have been painted a carnelian red and the walls inside are a coppery hue with huge pieces of driftwood adorning the walls, kind of like free beach art.

    With Valentine’s Day a week away, choices are vast for those who want to step out for dinner with their sweetheart.

    Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett will be closed on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, so some minor renovations can be done. The popular Main Street eatery will reopen next Thursday.

Winter Prix Fixe

    At the 1770 House in East Hampton, a winter prix fixe offered Sunday through Thursday, excluding holidays, features three courses for $35 and a chance to sample dishes made by the restaurant’s new chef, Michael Rozzi.

Kids Eat Free

When it was recently suggested that I do a story on foods that help us get through the winter doldrums, I immediately wiped my greasy fingers on my paper towel napkin, adjusted the waistband on my sweatpants, set aside the 1/10 that remained of the artichoke dip I had decided was my dinner, and wondered, “Why did I just eat that? What compelled me to make a rich, gooey, fat-laden dip for a meal?”

Sweet and Spicy Salmon

    You can toss together just about any combination of sweet chili sauce, garlic, and ginger and throw it on some salmon before grilling, baking, or broiling and it will be good. Serve with brown rice and a salad topped with nuts and dried cranberries.

    Serves four.

11/2 lbs. salmon, cut into 4 servings

1/2 cup sweet chili sauce

1 Tbsp. hot chili sauce, any kind will do

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. chopped garlic

2 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger

    A 2009 merlot from the North Fork’s Bedell Cellars was served at a lunch following President Obama’s inauguration on Monday, along with a second course of bison served with red potato horseradish cake and a wild huckleberry reduction.

    A number of New York products were featured at the lunch, which New York Senator Charles E. Schumer arranged as part of his duties as chairman of the inauguration committee. Along with the Bedell merlot, wines from several vineyards in the Finger Lakes region were served.

The Week at Citta

   The trip had been planned for almost a year. My friend Tommy organized the entire shebang; I was just a grateful-to-be-invited tagalong. The countries on our itinerary are places I have longed to see for much of my life: Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma), and Cambodia. When you are already enamored of a people and their cuisine, it is inevitable that you will fall more deeply in love when you are immersed in their culture.