Food

Before the many farm stands were boarded up for the winter, they displayed a handsome crop of winter squashes. Some even found their way into the produce departments of the chains. The pumpkins to be sure, but also hubbards with warty shells in shades of red, some small, some immense.

The gray hubbards looked unfinished, like concrete awaiting a coat of enamel. Turban squash, an apt name for the prettily striped and puffed shape, was a centerpiece on many tables.

A delicious but simple cooky, great for gifts, is a childhood memory. I had a friend whose mother came from Waterproof, La., and this is her recipe — actually a variation on the Viennese crescent.

Festive cupcakes so easy that a child could make them (with some adult supervision, of course).

“Cranberry Hole Road” is as aptly named as “Two Holes of Water Road” or “Highway Behind the Lots.” The area (Amagansett-Napeague) abounds in cranberries. Figuring Ocean Spray would be available if our mission failed, we set off for Napeague to go cranberrying. Truly pick your own, nature’s gift.

Forget everything I've ever said about growers and wholesalers devising ways to pick and ship produce while it is still green and how this works to the advantage of everyone but the consumer. The pear is the exception.

You've probably been eating local cucumbers for weeks. They have been with us since July and the season isn't over yet. There was a time, in early August, when you would have had trouble finding a cucumber that wasn't local. You could easily identify the outsiders by their excessively dark and shiny skins.

Real tomatoes, grown out of doors and in the sunshine, tasting juicy and fresh, are everywhere. Buy them; you have no excuses.

Now is the best time to make gazpacho. It is incredibly refreshing and all the ingredients are available locally grown, reasonably priced and fresh.

In New Orleans, this delectation was called “La Mediatriece,” a peace offering to an enraged wife when her husband trundled in after an evening in the French Quarter. I have served this for a first course, but it is really more suitable to Sunday lunch or a late supper. Serves four.

Jam-making is incredibly simple; in my grandmother’s circle, ladies who were not deft enough to piece a complicated quilt, could deflect scorn by creating delicious jams and jellies in unusual combinations of fruits and berries, wines and whiskeys. My favorite of all: Brandied Peach Butter.

I like maca­roni and cheese; it is a hearty, fill­ing dish and I like the flavor com­bination of this formula. I hope you will try it and see what you think.

I was reading a magazine article, the other day about colors and how they affect the appetite. Seems a man with a flair for experimenting got together a group of guests and seated them at a table with tempting foods. The guests were hungry and looking ahead to good meal. Then this experimenter turned on some special lights. The steak turned drab gray; the green celery looked pink, and the coffee become a muddy yellow. Most of the guests couldn't cat the food at all: yet it was precisely the same food they first saw in natural and appealing colors.