Food

Wine Bar at Michael’s

Michael’s restaurant at Maidstone Park in Springs has reopened after a short hiatus during which some interior renovations took place. Michael’s now features an expanded wine bar, with over 40 wines by the glass. An interior wall has been removed, affording more space for the bar area. Michael’s is now open seven days a week.

Monthly Pig Roast

You know how when you order food in a restaurant and you wait and wait and wait and it’s been like 45 minutes, so then you get up to use the loo and lo and behold, your food arrives at the table? That’s what this column is about. Eastern European food. The hearty, heavy, frigid-weather cuisine that keeps the Georgians and Hungarians and their neighbors fortified during long miserable winters.

March Weekends

The Montauk Yacht Club will be open on weekends this month, before opening daily for the season on April 1. Breakfast and lunch are served on Saturday and Sunday, and dinner is served on Friday and Saturday nights, when there is live music. The dinner menu is a la carte, with a $29 prix fixe.

Michaels’ Wine Bar

My friends Cindy and Jimmy have a huge glass jar filled with pistachios on their kitchen counter. When I say huge, I mean it. It is the size of a Southern church lady’s iced tea dispenser. And it’s always full.

I find this comforting . . . and tasty. When I remarked on it the other day, Jimmy asked, “Why haven’t you ever written about nuts? They’re good for you!”

So thank you, Jimmy, here it is.

Wine Classes

Wainscott Main Wines and Spirits has launched its newest series of Wednesday night wine-tasting classes, held at the Montauk Highway shop in Wainscott each week at 5:30 p.m. “Noble Grapes: A Comparative Look at Riesling and Pinot Noir” is the topic for Wednesday’s session, with Kevin Tunney of David Bowler Wines and Mike Mraz of the North Fork Table and Inn. The cost is $10. Those interested have been asked to sign up by calling the store or sending an email to WainscottMain@ gmail.com.

I used to keep a menu book. No one seems to know what those are anymore. If you Google them, all you get are restaurant supply stores offering you big leather-bound menu covers, or books like “7-Day Menu Planner for Dummies” and “Dinner: The Playbook — a 30 Day Plan for Mastering the Art of the Family Meal.” In other words, all you find are books for people who hate to cook, or don’t have time, and probably don’t even want to sit down to dinner with their family and friends. One friend asked, “Isn’t that something socialites used to do?” Probably.

The Peconic Land Trust’s spring lecture series, Long Island Grown II: Food and Beverage Artisans at Work, will kick off Sunday at 2 p.m. at the trust’s Southampton office at 300 Hampton Road with “The Drink,” a discussion featuring Jennifer Halsey Dupree of Milk Pail Farm, Roman Roth, winemaker and partner at Wolffer Estate Vineyard, and Richard Scoffier, the beverage and food director of Honest Man Restaurants. Laura Donnelly, food writer for The Star, will moderate. Subsequent programs will be held at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton.

Healthy bar snacks are available during a nightly 4 to 6 p.m. happy hour at Fresh in Bridgehampton.

Small bites on the menu include baked kale chips, steamed edamame, corn tortillas with salsa or guacamole, and dry-roasted cashews with chili, lime, and sea salt. More substantial menu items include organic chicken wings, local grass-fed beef sliders, whole-wheat pizza, and fish or vegetarian tacos. Bar food, house wine and beer, and house cocktails are half price during the happy hours.

Should Valentine’s Day bring a desire to look into the eyes of a loved one across a restaurant table, the annual lineup of eateries offering holiday specials includes the following.

In honor of Presidents Day weekend, let’s take a culinary trip down memory lane. How our presidents dined and entertained, and how their wives handled White House-housekeeping, is not only historically significant, it is quite revealing.

News for Foodies

With Valentine’s Day approaching, those who envision a gourmet dinner for two at home — but don’t know how to cook one — may wish to order a heat-and-serve dinner for two from Debbie Geppert Events and Dreesen’s Catering in East Hampton. Orders must be placed by next Thursday. Packages will include a choice of appetizer, first course, and dessert, and one of four entrees: filet mignon with wild mushroom sauce, rack of lamb with fresh mint demi glace, chicken marsala, and roast loin of pork with sausage and apple-cranberry stuffing.

I have always wondered why there is the expression “easy as pie.” Pie is not that easy to make! Turns out the expression began as “easy as eating pie.” Now that makes sense. However, I am hoping that this pie column will encourage you to take the leap, perfect a piecrust, make a bunch, and keep them in your freezer so you can whip one up on a whim.

The Super Bowl this weekend is, for some, as much of an occasion for noshing as it is for watching the game. The fest begins at 10 a.m. on Sunday at East Hampton’s Harbor Grill, which serves a “bottomless” brunch buffet until 2 p.m. The cost is $14.95 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Beginning at noon, those who order food or beverages will receive a free cup of chef Damien O’Donnell’s “championship chili.”

Pasta Night

Tuesday is pasta night at the Harbor Grill, which is on Three Mile Harbor Road in East Hampton. Beginning at 5 p.m., a pasta dinner special, featuring soup or salad, garlic bread, and an entree, is offered for $17, plus tax and gratuity. Choices include pasta with clam sauce, meatballs, Bolognese sauce, or with sausage, broccoli, garlic, and olive oil.

Cavaniola’s Gourmet

I generally eat a very healthy diet. This past week, for instance, I prepared wheatberries and roasted carrots from Quail Hill Farm, and last night I had scallops. A variety of greens are always at the ready in my fridge for a quick saute or salad. I love brown rice and oatmeal and just about any recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi’s “Ottolenghi,” “Jerusalem,” or “Plenty” cookbooks, which are full of yogurt and chili peppers and all manner of eggplant and other vegetables. However, I am occasionally possessed by the desire for something naughty, wrong, not so healthful.

The Smokin’ Wolf barbecue takeout shop in East Hampton is taking orders for Super Bowl specials. The menu includes sliders, nachos, quesadillas, ribs, brisket, buffalo chicken wings, and more. For every $75 spent on food, those who order will receive a 12-pack of beer.

Weekly lunch specials are also offered by Smokin’ Wolf. This week, the specials include soup or chili made with chicken or beef, served with salad or mashed potatoes, grilled steak salad, cream of spinach soup, and grilled hotdogs with French fries for $7.75.

Closed for Reno

Split Pea Soup 

This is a version of split pea soup I kind of made up this weekend. I didn’t have a ham hock or chunk of salt pork so I substituted two slices of bacon and some high quality ham bits. If you want to get some smoky flavor without the meat, try some smoked paprika. I also add more vegetables than most recipes because, why not? 

Serves six. 

I love bean soups. They are cheap and easy to make, yet require some time and a small bit of attention. This makes me feel like I’m really involved in a cooking project, but, in fact, I’m just making a meal with about 73 cents worth of ingredients. They are healthy and hearty and can be a one-dish meal. You can make them thick and chunky and rustic like a chili, or smooth and silky and sophisticated.

The Dockside Bar and Grill in Sag Harbor is closed for a winter break. The restaurant is slated to reopen in mid-February.

Gula Gula Store

Luchi Masliah of Springs, the founder of Gula Gula Empanadas, has announced plans to open a store on the North Fork, in Mattituck, in the spring. Ms. Masliah, who has been selling her varieties of empanadas, which feature fresh local produce, at farmers markets and in frozen, prepackaged form for several years, has had her sights set on a brick-and-mortar shop for some time.

It began with a last-minute invitation. My friend T. had just finished building his house on an island in the Bahamas. The island shall remain nameless because there are good things about the newly built community and a few not so good things. My assignment: Bring Parmesan cheese, a cocktail shaker, and swim goggles.

Coming right up is the next Artists and Writers night at Almond in Bridgehampton, this one with Francine Fleischer, a photographer. During the special events, Jason Weiner, an owner of the restaurant and its chef, prepares a three-course meal served family-style, and the featured guest leads a discussion.

Ms. Fleischer’s work has appeared in magazines such as Vanity Fair, Conde Nast Traveler, Esquire, and Italian Vogue, and her work has been exhibited nationally and internationally. She is a part-time resident of Sag Harbor.

Cavemen invented it. Attila the Hun enjoyed the horse-meat variety. Pioneers and cowboys survived on it. We’re not talking about your 7-11 sodium nitrate–filled teriyaki version of it, we’re talking about real jerky, homemade jerky.

Here are some recipes from “Eat Like a Wild Man,” ironically written by a woman, compiled by Rebecca Gray.

Dim Sum Jerky

Make with duck, goose, or beef

Marinade:

1 cup red wine

2 tsp. oyster sauce

4 tsp. soy sauce

4 tsp. brown sugar

2 tsp. garlic powder

Stefanie Sacks of Montauk, a chef and nutritionist who has dished far and wide about how the food we eat affects our health — she has a weekly WPPB radio show, “Stirring the Pot,” does a weekly blog, “What the Fork,” and has contributed to three books on the subject, not to mention appearing recently on “The Dr. Oz Show” — has now put her sage advice and considerable knowledge into a new book, “What the Fork Are You Eating?” to be published next month by Tarcher/Penguin.

“Bah humbug,” you may think after reading this review. Or “She sure is a Grumpy Cat!” Sorry, but this job is essentially to provide a community and consumer service. Therefore, I am obligated to tell you about a recent evening I spent pushing food around my plate and being treated indifferently for a few hours, and then paying for it.

For New Year’s Eve

Those looking toward the last night of December to have an evening meal out and ring in the new year have numerous choices as to where they might go.

Holiday Meals

When it was suggested to me that I participate in a latke-making party and write a story about it, my initial response was, “Hmmm, doesn’t sound like much of a food story. Grated potatoes fried in oil? How interesting or complicated can that be?” When I heard that a number of children would be helping, I thought, “Now it’s getting interesting.” And when I learned about all the delicious varieties of latkes in existence, I was much enthused.

Winter memberships in Quail Hill Farm’s community supported agriculture program in Amagansett are still available and cost $395 for a family. A first-time fee for new members is $50. Individual shares are $250. 

The bounty can include carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cabbage, burdock, squash, beets, celery root, parsley, dried beans, wheat berries, and smoked hot peppers, among other things. Carissa’s Breads is also offering season-long bread shares through Quail Hill, and people can buy loaves individually on Friday pickup days.

Cavaniola’s Traditional Swiss Fondue

It is important to use the best ingredients for best flavor. Supermarket cheeses probably won’t yield the same results, so I strongly urge you to get the best cheeses you can for this fondue recipe.

Cavaniola’s very kindly shared its recipe for fondue, and the results were spectacular. If you want, the shop will blend the cornstarch and grate the cheeses for you beforehand. Bring cheese to room temperature before beginning.

Serves two to three.

3 oz. grated Gruyere

3 oz. grated Emmental