This requires a little background. There was a time, within the past two decades, that “chicken of the sea” (a.k.a. “sea squab”) did not exist. The lowly blowfish, of which this delicacy is the tail, was an unwelcome catch, stealing bait and annoying the fisherman who had the unpleasant task of discarding these homely creatures.
Then it was discovered that the tails were succulent and a virtual fillet, except for a central vertebral column. Today they are prized and becoming scarce. There are attempts underway at the Ocean Lab in Montauk to cultivate them, a treatment usually reserved for more exalted forms of seafood: shellfish, bass, trout, salmon.
Not many of the people who relish “chicken of the sea” are aware that their meal involves blowfish (bottlefish, puffers, globefish, etc.) And often at up to $3 a pound.
The blowfish is obviously no longer a “trash fish.” Enter the sea robin, still a nuisance in the nets, abandoned on the beach. The sea robin is a bizarre, dark, vaguely beaky-faced fish about a foot long. Two pretty, reddish fan-like fins at its sides resemble wings. A charming design for a Japanese kite, perhaps. But look closely.
The tail portion of the sea robin in similar to that of the blowfish. Only longer and somewhat more slender. As an entity, rich chunks of meat cling to the central vertebrae. The texture is excellent, the flavor mild, suitable for seasoning.
I tried various methods of preparation, in the course of which I made an important discovery. The sea robin tail has a right side and a wrong side. The flatter, broader side is the bottom and should be placed down on the platter or baking dish.
Always on Top
The narrower, rounded side should always be on top when the fish is served. This precaution permits the meat to be removed from the bone easily since a cluster of small bones which fan out from the vertebrae lie closer to the bottom side. No trouble to eat, a major consideration when it comes to seafood.
The only remaining question is one of public relations. Blowfish were named “sea squab.” What of the sea robin? Will the consumer accept that, assuming it is already a euphemism of some sort and welcome it into the culinary vocabulary? Since the blowfish tail is “chicken of the sea” and the sea robin tail is bigger, how about “Turkey of the Sea?”
Definitely not. Perhaps we should run a contest. Meanwhile, at $1 a pound, you will find them at the Sea Food Co-op, Cross Highway, Amagansett. Each tail will weigh from one-third to two-thirds of a pound. One large or two smaller tails is a decent portion. They are excellent fried in batter. I recommend grilling and baking. I will not belabor the point about new sources of protein.
Grilled Sea Robin
3 lbs. sea robin tails
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tbsp. prepared mustard (Dijon style)
1 tsp. minced fresh thyme (or 1/2 tsp. dried)
1/2 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper, generously
Lemon wedges
Arrange the fish in a shallow dish. Combine all the remaining ingredients except lemon wedges and pour over fish. Marinate for an hour, turning fish occasionally. Light charcoal grill. When coals are white hot, arrange fish on the grill, flat side up, and grill for ten minutes.
Turn fish with a spatula. Continue grilling another ten minutes or so until fish is browning and meat begins to cleave from the bone near the tail fin. Cooking time will vary depending on the size of the tails. Do not overcook. Serve with lemon wedges.
Serves six.
NOTE: These are also delicious served cold with a seasoned mayonnaise (add 3 tbsp. minced fresh herbs — parsley, tarragon, chervil, thyme — and 1 tbsp. tarragon vinegar to 1/2 cup mayonnaise. Do it in the blender and it will be green). Grill small sea robin tails and serve them this way as a first course.
Baked Sea Robin
3 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
2 cups peeled, seeded and chopped ripe tomatoes or drained and chopped canned tomatoes
1 tsp. minced fresh basil
1/4 tsp. sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2-2 1/2 lbs. sea robin tails
1 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tbsp. minced fresh parsley
Heat 2 tbsp. of the olive oil in a saucepan. Add onion and green pepper and saute over medium heat until soft but not brown. Add garlic and cook, stirring, another minute or two. Add tomatoes, basil, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer sauce for 15-20 minutes, until fairly thick. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Lightly oil a baking dish with remaining olive oil and arrange fish, flat side down, in dish. Sprinkle fish with lemon juice. Spoon sauce over the fish. Bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve at once with rice and steamed fresh zucchini.
Serves four.
