Finally, field tomatoes. Inviting baskets of them, with a jar for the money, are appearing in front of houses along side roads. At the farm stands, the high-priced hothouse beauties are being replaced by a more outdoorsy breed.
Tomatoes were originally grown to be admired rather than consumed. When the tomato was first imported to Europe from the New World by the Spanish conquistadors, it was considered a decorative plant; pretty but inedible, possibly poisonous. And that was long before Florida farmers shipped them green or doused them with pesticides.
Growing them is still a particular joy. Mine are so lush that if Marlon Brando passed out among them, no one would discover him until after the frost. An abundant home-grown crop permits you to pickle some of the green ones.
Ripe or nearly ripe tomatoes should be stored at room temperature, away from extremes of heat or cold. A dazzling scarlet salad needs but slices of fresh ripe tomatoes, a sprinkling of fresh herbs, salt and freshly ground pepper, a splash of oil and vinegar. Here are two other possibilities. In one, the tomatoes are cooked briefly. In the other, tomatoes are combined with grain and herbs and nothing comes in contact with heat.
Sautéed Tomato Salad
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 Tbs. minced garlic
21/4 lbs. medium-small tomatoes, quartered (and peeled, if desired)
1 tsp. salt (or more, to taste)
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 Tbs. minced fresh basil
2 Tbs. minced parsley
Heat oil in a large skillet. Add onion and cook over medium heat until transparent but not brown. Add garlic and continue cooking until garlic is soft but not brown, three to five minutes. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper, basil, and one tablespoon of the parsley. Toss gently to mix ingredients. Cover and cook about five minutes, until tomatoes are heated through and tender but still hold their shape. (They will soften somewhat more as they cool.) Arrange in a serving dish and sprinkle with remaining parsley. Serve at room temperature. Serves six.
Tabbouleh
1 cup bulgur wheat (cracked wheat)
3 cups water
1/2 cup minced onion
1/2 cup minced scallion (including the green part)
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
1 cup minced parsley
2 cups chopped, peeled, seeded and juiced tomatoes (2-3 tomatoes)
Juice of 2 lemons
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp. salt (or more, to taste)
1/2 tsp. pepper
Cover bulgur wheat with water in a bowl and set aside for one and a half hours or longer, until wheat is tender. Drain thoroughly, pressing out all excess water. Either use a strainer lined with cheesecloth or a Chemex or Melitta coffee filter cone lined with filter paper.
Transfer drained wheat to a large bowl. Gently mix in remaining ingredients. Traditionally, tabbouleh is presented on a bed of romaine lettuce. It may be garnished with mint leaves or parsley, lemon or tomato slices, or Greek olives. Tabbouleh, a dish of Near Eastern origin, is appropriate as a first course, a salad, a starch, or a buffet dish.
Serves six to eight.
