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In Season: Guacamole for People Who Don't Like Avocados

Thu, 01/31/1974 - 09:16
Avocado
Liz West/Wikimedia Creative Commons (no alterations)

Avocados are very pleasing. The leathery, shiny, dark skin encases smooth, buttery flesh, chrome yellow to deep green. The large stone offers no resistance, and a layer of fiber lifts off without a trace of the flesh. The avocado responds equally well to slicing or mashing.

Once cut, exposure to air will darken the pulp. Lemon or lime juice or a film of plastic wrap must be applied to protect it. The only other drawback is the taste, or lack of it. Avocados are not one of my favorite foods. Occasionally I find some in a salad I am served. It doesn’t interfere. However, I prefer seafood salad with an artichoke. Cold avocado soup tastes like, well, cold soup.

Guacamole is the exception. I suppose that is as it should be. Avocados are native to Mexico (they were introduced to Florida in 1833 and subsequently to California, the East and West Indies, Hawaii, and Africa). Not only guacamole, a condiment of mashed avocado, tomato, and chili, but various sauces and even desserts (sweetened puree) emerge in shades of green from Mexican kitchens.

Avocado Burgers?

In California, where most of our avocados are grown, they have tried to be more inventive, creating avocado burgers (mashed or sliced on top with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise) and dips of green cream cheese, none of which would send me running to the kitchen.

While avocados seem too plentiful this year, the prices are high. They are sold all year but the seasonal period is January to April. I can remember paying 29 cents for a nice avocado (could it have been last year)? Now they range from 49 cents (smallish) at the IGA and the A&P to 69 cents for fairly good-sized ones at Gristedes and most other markets. At the Newtown Grocery and Fedi's, they cost more.

An avocado must be fully ripe before using. Buy them a day or two in advance to allow for this. A ripe avocado will yield somewhat to the touch but the skin should not be shriveled. Store them at room temperature unless they are ready before you are, in which event refrigerate.

A Lot for the Money

Per calorie, you get a lot for the money. A single average avocado contains about 400 calories (as well as many other nutrients). That's more than three whole cantaloupes or a slice of almost any kind of pie. Mashed up into guacamole, you consume less of it. The following recipe is on the mild side so the fire won't numb your palate for the rest of the meal. If you are serving guacamole at a cocktail party, with no dinner to follow, you may add more chili or cayenne if you wish.

At this time of year, buy your tomato enough in advance to allow it to ripen. Leaf coriander, also called cilantro or Chinese parsley, is difficult to find outside Chinatown or El Barrio. You can grow your own or you might try one of the Chinese restaurants; perhaps the chef will give you a few sprigs. There is no substitute; omit it if you have none.

Guacamole

1 large avocado
Juice of one-half a fresh lime
1 medium ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 canned green chili
2 tsp. minced coriander leaves
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground back pepper to taste
Fritos, tostadas, or other chips

Cut avocado in half, remove seed and pith, and either peel the skin or scoop out the flesh. Finely mash the pulp or force it through a sieve. Mix with lime juice, tomato, and onion, and cover tightly. Rinse chili in cold water. Dry it, remove the seeds, and finely chop it.

Add it to the avocado along with coriander, pepper, and salt. Taste carefully for seasoning. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. If the top surface darkens, mix it before serving. Serve with chips or on a bed of lettuce for a salad.

Note: You may want to plant the seed. Place three or four tooth-picks into the sides of the pit so it may be suspended in a small glass or jar. Fill the container with water (the top third of the pit should be exposed to the air) and keep it in a dark place, replenishing the water as needed. When a root system has begun to form, the pit may be planted, keeping the top exposed, and moved to a sunny spot.

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