The 2023 Bordeaux wines have made their way to America, and with President Trump backing down on his threat to hit French wines with 200-percent tariffs, they could offer some incredible values. Coming off the heels of the generationally outstanding 2022, the quality of the 2023 wines varies, which means prices are not nearly as high. And if you pick the right grapes, you can find some delicious deals.
This month, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, a group of 131 Châteaux in Bordeaux, brought its 2023 vintage to America for the first time, hosting a tasting at Cipriani 42nd Street on Jan. 19. Several of the wines scored critics’ ratings in the upper 90s (out of 100) and have terrific cellaring potential.
The 2023 vintage was challenging because of the weather, in particular a warm and wet spring. Mildew was an issue for the merlot grapes, which have thinner skins than cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc — the other major grapes used in red Bordeaux blends. In some vineyards, the mildew was so devastating that the winemakers couldn’t produce a thing. Thankfully, a warm and dry late summer/early fall helped many grapes ripen properly and saved the vintage. Because the summer wasn’t as hot as in recent years, the 2023 wines are also lower in alcohol content — 13.5 to 14.5 percent — and higher in acidity, making them fresher, more vibrant, and less heavy. These are wines that are drinkable now, but will really improve in taste and flavor over the next 10 to 20 years.
Many of these 2023 red wines are available online for pre-order now on websites like wine.com and zachys.com, and will ship in November. Here are some highlights by region, all under $100.
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Saint-Émilion is on the right bank of the Dordogne River in Bordeaux, where merlot is the dominant grape, usually blended with cabernet franc. These wines can be beautifully rich and velvety with lots of dark-fruit flavors and earthy notes. They are often elegant and age well. Château Canon-la-Gaffelière is a great choice at $71.97. The 2023 is a wise blend of 45 percent cabernet franc, 35 percent merlot, and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. It was one of the best Saint-Émilions at the UCG tasting and received a 97-point rating from James Suckling, a renowned wine critic. It’s elegant, round, and smooth, with beautifully integrated tannins that will enable it to age and evolve for several decades.
Pomerol
Pomerol is also on the right bank of the Dordogne, so there is plenty of merlot here, too. It is the smallest of the major winemaking regions of Bordeaux and is home to famous names like Pétrus, which sells for over $1,000 in pre-sale. Some of the more reasonable options here include Château Le Gay, which is available for $99.97. In spite of using 85 percent merlot and just 15 percent cabernet franc, the 2023 Le Gay is rich and flavorful, with hints of graphite and black cherry. Mr. Suckling also gave it 97 points. Château Clinet is another stunner from Pomerol. A blend of 75 percent merlot and 25 percent cabernet sauvignon, the Clinet has black-fruit flavors and spices reminiscent of a blackberry pie. With tongue-stripping tannins, this wine has terrific aging potential. It received 95 points from Robert Parker and Jeb Dunnuck, also well-known wine critics, and is $88.99. Château Gazin is the best value in Pomerol this year at $64.97. It has loads of dark fruit, like plum, and great depth. The Gazin is drinkable now, with light yet present tannins that will age beautifully. A mix of 89 percent merlot, 7 percent cabernet franc, and 4 percent cabernet sauvignon, it received 95 points from Mr. Suckling.
Haut-Médoc
Haut-Médoc is a large region on the left bank of the Gironde estuary where the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers meet. Known for its cabernet sauvignon, this region also boasted the best bargains at the UGC tasting. Château Cantemerle was the deal of the day at just $26.97 and is a smart buy year after year. With light, softly gritty tannins, this is a wine to drink today or keep in the cellar. With 75 percent cabernet sauvignon, 15 percent merlot, 6 percent petit verdot, and 4 percent cabernet franc, it would be delicious with a ribeye steak or sausage pizza and has great crunchy red and dark fruit flavors, along with a rich texture. Mr. Suckling awarded it 94 points. Château Coufran is also a steal at $27 and is drinkable now. Using 85 percent merlot and 15 percent cabernet sauvignon, a less common combination in this region, it has a subtly graphite finish and hints of berries. Mr. Suckling awarded it 93 points.
Margaux
Margaux is the jewel in Bordeaux’s crown, home to more top Châteaux than any other region, mostly cabernet sauvignon-driven blends. It’s not always easy to find bargains here, though there are some good values this year. Château Brane-Cantenac is both a hidden gem and a perennial favorite, offering absolutely gorgeous wine that drinks above its price point over and over again. At $67.99, this wine tastes like it costs twice as much. It’s silky, with rhubarb notes, and an elevated finish. It will be even better in five years. It is 77 percent cabernet sauvignon and 20 percent merlot, with some cabernet franc, carménère, and petit verdot. Mr. Suckling gave it 97 points. Château Dauzac is an even more affordable favorite in Margaux; you’ll rarely find a consistently better value at $47.97. Awarded 95 points from Mr. Suckling, this wine is an intense, classic Bordeaux blend, with elegant ripe fruit.
Saint-Julien
Saint-Julien sits between Margaux and Pauillac and produces refined wines with great balance that are also cabernet sauvignon-dominant. The Léovilles — Château Leoville Barton and Château Leoville Poyferré — are stunning this year, drawing a lot of buzz at the tasting. The Leoville Barton has notes of graphite and great, sandy tannins. It will be absolutely gorgeous in a few years with a nice steak dinner or even some charcuterie. A blend of 87 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10 percent merlot, and 3 percent cabernet franc, it received 97 points from Mr. Suckling and is $84.99.
You can keep $5 in your wallet and go with the equally elegant Leoville Poyferré at $79.97. It also has prominent graphite, along with lovely red fruit. The sharp tannins on this finish will preserve this wine for decades. It is 62 percent cabernet sauvignon, 32 percent merlot, 4 percent cabernet franc, and 2 percent petit Verdot. Mr. Dunnuck gives it 97 points. Château Langoa Barton is another winner at a much lower price point. For $44.97, Langoa Barton is dark and delicious with hints of chocolate and tobacco. It’s ready to drink now, but will last for some time. It is 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 37 percent merlot, and 3 percent cabernet franc. Mr. Parker gives it 95 points.
By far, the best bargain of the bunch, and maybe even of the entire vintage, is Château Gloria. Consistently a best-in-class, you get way more than you pay for at just $33.97. Gloria is ready to drink now with a beautiful balance of 50 percent cabernet sauvignon, 35 percent merlot, 10 percent petit verdot, and 5 percent cabernet franc. If you’ve seen “Drops of God” on Apple TV+ (season two just premiered on Jan. 21) you might recognize Gloria, which was prominently featured in the delivery trucks in season one’s closing scene. A wine worthy of ending a show, Mr. Dunnuck and Mr. Suckling both give it 94 points.
Pauillac
Pauillac is home to some of the most famous wines in Bordeaux: Château Latour, Château Lafite Rothschild, and Château Mouton Rothschild, so bargains don’t naturally abound in this region. Most of the wonderful wines here cost more than $100 a bottle, but one value stands out: Château Clerc Milon. The 2023 is fabulous, with a slightly tart attack, a gravelly tannic finish, and beautiful dark berries and spice. It should age beautifully and is made of 72 percent cabernet sauvignon, 19 percent merlot, 6.5 percent cabernet franc, 1.5 percent carménère, and 1 percent petit verdot. Mr. Suckling gave it 95 points.
Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Estèphe is another cabernet-dominant region that had a notable value at the UCG tasting: Château Phèlan Ségur. At $44.95, Phèlan Ségur is soft and plush, with fabulous fruit. With 58 percent cabernet sauvignon, 39 percent merlot, 1.5 percent petit verdot, and 1.5 percent cabernet franc, it has such power, it might even compete with the 2022 vintage. Mr. Suckling gave it 97 points.
Sauternes
And finally, you can’t forget about the sweet wines from Sauternes, made predominantly with sémillon grapes that have been afflicted with botrytis, or noble rot. The partially-raisined grapes make intensely flavored and heavily alcoholic wines that are delicious with dessert or blue cheese. The most famous Sauternes is Château d’Yquem, which is considered the best in class and often costs more than $400 a bottle. At just $59.97, Château Suduiraut is like d’Yquem’s modern, younger sibling with fresh tropical flavors like pineapple and a lighter, brighter feel. Mr. Dunnuck awarded it 99 points and it could easily get 100. It’s that good.
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Alison Morris Roslyn is a Level 3 sommelier, certified by the National Wine School. She also has certificates in French wines from Cornell University and in oenology from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris.
