Fluke are flatfish, a species of Atlantic flounder, also called “summer flounder.” They can weigh in at a pound or so or be heaved aboard in seven to ten-pound sizes. For some reason, fluke were scarce for a few years but that has changed. Fluke fillets may be cooked like sole or flounder. The flesh is moist and sweet. From the larger fish, crosswise slices or steaks, much like halibut, lend themselves to various broilings, bakings and sauteings. If you buy your fluke at the Seafood Shop and ask Bob Wilford what to do with it, he may suggest a dusting of fresh parmesan or a mayonnaise glaze before broiling portion-sized fillets.
Wine Sauce
Or he’ll tell you how to make a quick white wine sauce for broiled fluke melted butter mixed with flour and then the liquid which you drain off after broiling, then add some white wine, and heat until the sauce is thickened, a little cream, a touch of herb and some salt and pepper are all you need to finish it.
Local fluke prices vary almost as much as the size of the fish. I found a spread of almost 75c in the price of fillets. The lowest were at Stuart’s in Amagansett, $2.49 a pound (subject to change, of course).
I baked some fluke fillets. Hothouse tomatoes were an extravagance in the sauce, but in just a few weeks, field tomatoes will begin to appear, red and ripe, so you can save the recipe for then, if you wish.
Baked Fluke
4 Tbsp. olive oil
2 bay leaves
2/3 cup minced scallion
2 lb. fluke fillets or thin fluke steaks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 clove garlic, minced
3 cups fresh, ripe peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. minced fresh basil
2 Tbsp. butter
Rub a large, shallow baking pan (or two smaller pans) with 2 Tbs. olive oil. Crumble the bay leaf into the pan and sprinkle 1/2 cup of the scallion evenly in the pan. Arrange the fish in a single layer in the pan, season with salt and pepper and refrigerate while proceeding with the recipe.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil in a two quart saucepan. Add the onion and saute until soft but not brown. Stir in the garlic. Add the tomatoes and cook until slightly thickened, about ten minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and basil. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Dot with butter and sprinkle with remaining scallions. Bake in the upper third of preheated oven for about 15 to 20 minutes for small fillets, 20 to 25 minutes for large fillets or steaks.
Serves six.
