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Seasons by the Sea: Embracing Healthy Eating

Seasons by the Sea: Embracing Healthy Eating

Fresh, healthy food doesn’t just taste and feel better, it looks prettier, too.
Fresh, healthy food doesn’t just taste and feel better, it looks prettier, too.
Laura Donnelly
By
Laura Donnelly

    It’s confession time. Two years ago you would have found me jogging three and a half miles at least four days a week, swimming a few miles at Gurney’s twice a week, and attending frequent yoga classes. But working as a chef is tiring and I’m gettin’ old. I slacked off on the exercise and the pounds crept up on me. This is all it took to lead me to my current status as a person with hypertension: a 15-pound weight gain and sheer laziness.

    My doctor recommended the DASH diet, “dietary approaches to stop hypertension,” along with moderate daily exercise. I mentioned this diet a few weeks ago in a column about the delicious, decadent food and adult beverages of New Orleans and how I tried to safely navigate this terrain while in that city for six days. I have learned a lot in the six weeks I have been on the DASH diet, have lost five pounds, and have successfully lowered my blood pressure.

    Springtime is here, soon there will be plenty of fresh local fruits and vegetables, and perhaps you, too, would like to shed a few pounds and adopt a healthier lifestyle. The good news is how easy it is. The DASH diet is easy to follow, and because it is heavy on grains, fruits, and vegetables, you never feel hungry. More important, it is endorsed by the American Heart Association, the Mayo Clinic, the National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute (part of the National Institutes of Health), and has been voted the number-one best and healthiest overall diet plan by U.S. News and World Report.

    Based on your age, weight, sex, and level of activity, you can calculate what your daily diet should include. In my case, it is six servings of grains (this means wheat bread, cooked pastas, rice, and cereals), four each of fruits and vegetables, one and a half of meat, poultry, or fish, a quarter of nuts, two of low-fat dairy, one of fat, and half a serving of sweets. Obviously in the grains category they mean brown rice not white, and oatmeal, not Cap’n Crunch.

    I have embraced the challenge of coming up with tasty meals and knocking off as many of my required items at a single sitting. Some have been tremendously successful and delicious, others went straight into the garbage, with me cursing the waste of time and money spent. Here is what I love: brown rice and oatmeal. Here is what I hate: turkey bacon, whole-wheat pasta, and non-fat sour cream.

    One day I found poblano peppers at the market. As I love chiles rellenos, I attempted to come up with a healthy alternative. After roasting and peeling the peppers I stuffed them with a mixture of quinoa, corn, cumin, and a tiny bit of grated cheese. Topped with some homemade pico de gallo they were delicious. Another time I tried a recipe from Food and Wine’s “healthiest new ingredients” issue. It was so time-consuming, expensive, and ghastly I tried to find a Food and Wine Web site so I could complain about it. There’s no way they tested that recipe. It was punishment.

    Working in a restaurant and writing restaurant reviews present more challenges. At work, I have access to all kinds of healthy and delicious things — every kind of fruit, salad ingredient, kale, squash, cabbage, you name it. But I am also confronted on a daily basis with the home fries sizzling in butter with bits of caramelized onion, mashed potatoes, bagels, and gravlax, not to mention the desserts and ice creams I crank out for the restaurant. Family meal, or staff meal, is frequently loaded with pasta, creamy sauces, cheese, and all manner of pork products. When dining in restaurants I simply remind myself, “You don’t have to eat it, you just have to taste it.” As I abhor waste, I do ask for doggy bags and give them to my dining companions.

    The DASH folks offer diet tips: Take advantage of deli and supermarket salad bars, double up on vegetables (one cup is two servings), put berries on your cereal, nuts are okay! Some convenience foods make DASH easier, bagged ready-to-eat baby carrots, broccoli, and cabbage slaw. Make your plate colorful. You want to see greens and oranges and reds, not just the browns and whites of meat and starch.

    My refrigerator has changed; my pantry has changed. They’re actually quite picturesque! Look, there’s a lovely bowl of black grapes where the Epoisses cheese used to be. Falafel and sweet potato chips have replaced those awesomely delicious Cape Cod potato chips. I make fruit crisps with no sugar, topped with homemade granola, and served with vanilla frozen yogurt. Homemade hummus is a snap to make and has much less fat than commercial brands. I keep a toasted nut mixture of sunflower, pumpkin seeds, almonds, and dried cranberries on hand to toss on top of every salad or just to snack on. When I was too pooped to cook the other night, the lure of takeout Chinese food was too much. I succumbed, but only to the sautéed string beans and brown rice.

    I am not hungry. I am probably eating more than I did before, but the food is better. I don’t really miss butter or the extra dash of salt I would always put on everything or cookies or steak. The DASH diet does not forbid any of these things, it simply recommends smaller amounts. You can try fad diets and you will lose weight. You can brag about rapidly losing 30 pounds on the high protein “A” diet, but I guarantee you will probably gain it back. I am not a doctor. I am not a nutritionist. I am just a person with common sense who is trying to improve her health. Diet bad. Moderation good. Lifestyle change best!

Click for recipes

News for Foodies: 04.05.12

News for Foodies: 04.05.12

By
Joanne Pilgrim

    The Palm restaurant in East Hampton is offering a three-course prix fixe dinner for Easter for $58.90 per person, plus tax and tip. The meal will begin with a choice of salad or lobster bisque, followed by filet mignon served with a choice of panko fried shrimp, bacon-wrapped scallops, jumbo shrimp, or jumbo lump crab cake. Dessert will be New York-style cheesecake or creme brulée. Reservations have been suggested.

    Pierre’s restaurant in Bridgehampton will serve an Easter brunch from 10 a.m. till 10 p.m.

    At the new Muse in the Harbor on Easter Sunday, the menu will include traditional holiday entrees such as lamb and ham. A kids menu will also be served. A three-course holiday prix fixe to be offered for $28.95 will include a choice of first courses such as various kinds of meatballs, soup, salad, and rice balls on a stick, and entrees including Mambo Chicken Italiano, Three Little Piggies, which incorporates three types of pork, and tilapia Wiener schnitzel, as well as a vegetarian selection. Dessert will be included as well.

    The Easter brunch special at the Living Room in East Hampton will be served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and include three courses, with a glass of sparkling wine for adults, and an opportunity for children to decorate their own cookies. The cost is $65 per person.

    At Cafe Max in East Hampton on Easter Sunday, a three-course prix fixe will offer diners a choice of appetizers such as the soup du jour, spring rolls, pear with gorgonzola and walnuts, shrimp cocktail, or fettuccini Alfredo. The entrees include penne with chicken sausage in tomato concassé, grilled or Cajun-style local fish, grilled salmon with a Dijon sauce, chicken Francaise, roast leg of lamb (for a $2 supplement), or roast prime rib. For dessert, there will be strawberry shortcake, Key lime pie, cranberry apple tarte, vanilla or chocolate ice cream, or fruit sorbet. The cost is $30 per person, or $20 for children 13 and under.

Easter in Montauk

    In Montauk, there are a number of Easter specials to be had. Inlet Seafood overlooking the water on East Lake Drive will serve a Sunday brunch from noon to 3 p.m. and an Easter dinner menu from noon to 8 p.m.

    At the Shagwong Tavern on Main Street, a three-course prix fixe will be offered all day for $29 per person.

    The Montauk Yacht Club will be have an Easter brunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. that will include carving, pasta, and omelette stations, a raw bar, hot and cold buffets, and an array of desserts including homemade ice cream sundaes made to order.

    Manucci’s, on the corner of West Lake Drive and Flamingo Road, will have a $31.95 Easter prix fixe with entree choices to include a roast half-duck, filet mignon, crab and shrimp-stuffed fluke, braised lamb shank, and zuppa di pesce. The special will include soup or salad and a dessert.

    Gurney’s Inn will serve a traditional Easter dinner from 1 to 9 p.m. Among the entree choices will be veal chops, shrimp scampi, lamb chops, pork loin, steamed or broiled lobster or monkfish, and three “heart-healthy” selections.

Pierre’s in Spring

    At Pierre’s in Bridgehampton, a new menu revamped for spring includes lobster salad, pan-seared red snapper served with vegetables and an orange juice-infused broth, and a salad of tomato with fresh mango, avocado, and virgin olive oil. Hanger steak will replace the pot au feu that has been on the menu, and an artichoke velouté will replace the onion soup.

    Pierre’s also has a two-course prix fixe for $26, and a three-course prix fixe for $30, available all night except on Friday and Saturday, when it is offered only until 6:30 p.m. The prix fixe will not be offered on Easter.

Restaurant Week

    The recent Hamptons Restaurant Week — the 10th annual — had 56 participating restaurants offering a prix fixe promotion and jumpstarting their new seasons.

    A total of $2,495 ($10 for each new fan of the Hamptons Restaurant Week Facebook page) was donated to Maureen’s Haven, a nonprofit group that offers services for the homeless.

Pajama Party at Phao

    At a “pajama party” tomorrow night at Phao restaurant in Sag Harbor, which begins at 10:30, guests who wear pajamas will receive a complimentary drink. Judging for a $50 cash prize for the most comfortable and sexiest pajamas will be at 12:30 a.m. A D.J. will spin tunes. There will be no admission fee.

Cook’s Cook

    Joe Realmuto, the executive chef at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton and the Nick and Toni’s Cafe in Manhattan, will teach a class at the De Gustibus Cooking School in New York City on April 17. The dishes to be prepared will highlight his devotion to local and organic produce, fish, and Mediterranean cooking.

Back From the Farms

    Lucy Kazickas, the owner of the Lucy’s Whey cheese shop on North Main Street in East Hampton, has returned from recent trips to visit farmers in the Finger Lakes region and Wisconsin, where she sampled new cheese as well as some of the old favorites.

    The shop will reopen for the season today from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and will also be open tomorrow and Saturday. Springtime hours on subsequent weekends will be Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. through Memorial Day.

Seasons by the Sea: Weird and Wacky, but So Good

Seasons by the Sea: Weird and Wacky, but So Good

A can of beer, a chicken, and a grill are a few of the more unusual combinations that some food enthusiasts swear by in making delicious dishes.
A can of beer, a chicken, and a grill are a few of the more unusual combinations that some food enthusiasts swear by in making delicious dishes.
Morgan McGivern
Some unusual food combinations and recipes have been around for years.
By
Laura Donnelly

    Jennifer’s mother-in-law cooks her brisket with Coca-Cola. Steve puts Spanish olives on his peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Have you ever tried extra virgin olive oil drizzled over premium vanilla ice cream? Who knew these bizarre food combinations could be so good? And who was the first genius to stick a can of beer inside a chicken carcass before grilling?

    Some unusual food combinations and recipes have been around for years, some are chef’s secrets, and some seem to come about after a night of refreshing beverages and not much to work with . . . fried chicken with kimchi, anyone? Some of them make sense, like carrots with a pinch of sugar in the classic French recipe carrots Vichy. But tomatoes with a pinch of sugar? Try it, the acidity of the tomatoes works beautifully with a hint of sweetness. Another intriguing tomato trick I discovered but have not tried yet: cooking a small bit of the tomato vine with tomatoes because this is where a great deal of the flavor is stored.

    The combination of chocolate and chilies has become popular in the form of both chili powder in bittersweet chocolate and a pinch of cocoa powder in chili recipes.

    Some seemingly odd combinations became popular in the years of nouvelle cuisine — strawberries or peaches with black pepper, strawberries with balsamic vinegar. I resisted these for a while, but if you try very, very good, old balsamic vinegar (just a few drops!) on perfect summer berries, it really is delicious. Brie cheese with raspberries, and blue cheese with honey are reputed to be magical pairings. My friend Kathleen once gave me a jar of truffle honey with a card suggesting it be drizzled over Cypress Grove’s Humboldt Fog goat cheese. What a spectacular combination! Since I ran out of the truffle honey, I simply stir a few drops of truffle oil into honey and recreate it quite successfully.

    Apparently, a pinch of salt in coffee brings out the flavor but I’m skipping that one.

    Chef’s secrets include a pinch of star anise with stewing meats — it enhances the flavor but is undetectable — and Thai fish sauce in tomato sauce. I have used this trick and it is magical. Don’t be thrown off by the fishy smell, this dissipates when cooked. Just a dash in your basic marinara!

    In the olden days (probably when doctors were smoking in their offices and we didn’t wear seat belts), there were a lot of recipes involving shortcuts and soda pop and the kind of advertising that would make Don Draper proud. How about this suggestion from the folks at 7-Up:

    “Ham Basted With 7-Up — a he-man favorite made richer, more succulent! Pour half-cup 7-Up over ham, bake one and a half hours at 325 degrees. Try with duck to make gravy with an unusual, delicious flavor!” Honestly, doesn’t that last suggestion just sound lazy?

    Here’s another doozie from a time when we must have made our dentists very rich:

    “A Little Trick That Makes A Treat! Mother knows that this is a wholesome combination. The addition of 7-Up gives milk a new flavor appeal that especially pleases children.” Nothing like a little fizzy corn syrup milk to start your darling’s day!

    This recipe just sounds like an incomplete haiku by an angry person:

    “Deer Roast. 4 lb. deer roast, one apple, Coke.” Yum.

    Some other combinations that appear over and over again are cheddar cheese in vanilla ice cream, bananas with sour cream, and bagels topped with everything. My favorite strange bagel topper — cream cheese, yellow mustard, gobs of fresh ground black pepper. Some combinations are logical in that we crave the salty-sweet or crunchy-creamy mouth feel. But pepper jack cheese with pineapple? Sourdough pretzels with avocado? Tomatoes dipped in ketchup?

    Just as chicken rice is a delicious street food in Singapore — probably because the rice is cooked in a lot of chicken fat and this is usually eaten at 3 a.m. after a night on the town — there is a popular Filipino breakfast dish called champorado. It begins with a sweet, glutinous rice cooked with cocoa powder and condensed milk. Sounds good so far, right? Then it is topped with salty, crunchy dried fish.

    Some food combinations are genius. Try popcorn with champagne. Apples cooked with vanilla. Beer can chicken is the perfect vehicle for adding flavor and moisture to your bird. The Dr. Pepper-Coca-Cola marinade concept adds a touch of sweetness and helps tenderize the proteins in the meat. It also takes rust off of nails in case you’re looking for other uses for your colas.

    I found a recipe for sauerkraut cupcakes and have heard about black bean brownies and chocolate cake moistened with mayo, but I’m not sure I’m ready or willing to try them. But a homemade apple pie infused with vanilla bean? Yes. Even fried chicken with kimchi sounds freakishly appealing. . . .

Click for recipes

News for Foodies: 04.12.12

News for Foodies: 04.12.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

New at Montauk Harbor

    Sam Joyce, a longtime chef at Gosman’s restaurant in Montauk, is opening his own place not far away on West Lake Drive. Calling it Sammy’s, he is taking over the spot where Clemente’s used to be. The menu includes appetizers such as Montauk oysters, tuna sashimi, “Irish nachos,” which feature homemade potato chips with traditional nacho toppings, and lobster salad tacos.

    Along with soups and salads, there will be sandwiches such as a shrimp po’boy and a Wimpie burger, and dishes that can be ordered tapas or entree size, such as walnut-glazed chicken, pork tenderloin pot stickers, tempura Montauk fluke, stuffed portobellos, and grilled rib-eye lettuce wraps. The new restaurant will have a soft opening this weekend, and will be fully open for business next week.

New Seafood Stop

    The Hampton Seafood Company has opened on Race Lane in East Hampton where Claws on Wheels used to be. Fresh fish and shellfish can be purchased for cooking at home or broiled, baked, or grilled for $5 and served with fries and coleslaw. There is also a “hot to go” menu, including fish tacos, grilled shrimp, Asian-spiced tuna burgers, and a pulled chicken sandwich — as well as two-pound servings of steamed mussels, clams, or Little Necks.  Salads, pasta, and wraps are also on the menu, as are daily lunch and dinner specials.

Empanadas To Go

    Gula Gula Empanadas is selling its treats at the Sag Harbor farmers market, held Saturdays at the parking lot at Bay Burger on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike. The empanadas come in many flavors, including buffalo, and can be purchased frozen for baking at home or ready to eat. Those who send an e-mail by Wednesday of each week to [email protected] can pick up orders at the market.

Spring Hors d’Oeuvres

    Ashley Foster of Water Mill, the owner of Tasty Bites Catering, will discuss “memorable spring hors d’oeuvres” at an Everyday Cooks program at the Rogers Memorial Library in Southampton on Wednesday at noon. Reservations are required and can be made by calling the library or at www.myrml.org.

Estia in Darien

    Colin Ambrose, the chef and owner of Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor, has opened Estia’s American in Darien, Conn.

    The eatery will offer cafe-style breakfast and lunch, with a juice bar, and shift into another mode for dinner and bar service. The menu will reflect Mr. Ambrose’s commitment to local and seasonal produce.

    Carissa Waechter, a co-founder of the Amagansett Food Institute who had been producing and selling breads through a business called Carissa’s Breads, will work in the kitchen at the new restaurant. She began her culinary career at Mondrian Pastry in New York City and worked as part of a pastry team under the chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud, as well as several other places, before finding her way to Amagansett.

Wine Dinner at Almond

    The wines of Paumanok Vineyards will be featured at Almond restaurant in Bridgehampton next Thursday at a dinner beginning at 7 p.m. Jason Weiner, the restaurant’s co-owner and chef, will present a three-course meal, along with passed hors d’oeuvres and dessert, all paired with Paumanok selections. The menu will include striped bass with baby artichoke and an entree of leg of lamb with fava beans, chickpeas, baby carrots, and wilted greens.  The cost is $65 per person plus tax and gratuity.

Brunch in Sag

    Beginning this weekend, Muse in the Harbor will offer brunch each Saturday and Sunday, with a menu featuring dishes on the “lunch side” or “breakfast side.” It will be served from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.    

New at Nick & Toni’s

    Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton has added some new dishes for springtime. Serving dinner from 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, the restaurant now offers an antipasto of warm asparagus and crab with pea greens, orange aioli, and slivered red onions, a first course of ricotta gnocchi with fontina, spring peas, and straw mushrooms, and, for entrees, grilled lamb tenderloins with snap peas, baby carrots, and mint, among other choices.

Watch, Learn

    A free cooking demonstration at the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop in Bridgehampton on Saturday from noon to 2 p.m. will feature the preparation of sweet pea crostini.

A New Chef, An Old Classic

A New Chef, An Old Classic

Alex Fausto and Paul LaBue joined Colin Mather, the owner of the Seafood Shop, in presenting a paella dish, one of the shop’s most popular classics. Mr. LaBue will soon be enhancing the menu with additional international dishes.
Alex Fausto and Paul LaBue joined Colin Mather, the owner of the Seafood Shop, in presenting a paella dish, one of the shop’s most popular classics. Mr. LaBue will soon be enhancing the menu with additional international dishes.
Carrie Ann Salvi
A traditional paella dish
By
Carrie Ann Salvi

   Those looking to prepare a meal with fresh spring color, as well as the comfort and warmth of rice and spice, might enjoy one of the most popular entrees served by the Seafood Shop in Wainscott.

    The new executive chef on board, Paul LaBue, who brings 23 years of experience, most recently at Navy Beach in Montauk, to the job, shared the shop’s recipe for a traditional paella dish to feed four.

    While retaining the shop’s classics, Mr. LaBue said he plans to upgrade the menu to also offer patrons a taste of his specialties — globally inspired dishes made with local ingredients. The new menu will include Indian, Asian, and Mediterranean flavors, and will be, as always, “fish-centric,” with 95 percent of recipes including fish, almost all of which is local, when in season.

Seafood Shop Paella

2 cups long grain white rice

Pinch of saffron

2 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup clam juice

2 11/4-lb. lobsters

12 local Little Neck clams

12 P.E.I. mussels

12 16-20 shell-on large shrimp

1 organic chicken breast, diced

2 tsp. Paprika

1/2 cup sliced chorizo

1/4 cup chopped garlic

    Mr. LaBue recommends using a heavy pan, since ideally the rice should stick to the bottom to become caramelized. A large, deep, cast-iron pan works best, he said, or a heavy stainless paella pan.

    The rice is started first, with enough olive oil to coat evenly, the saffron, and half of the liquid, a combination of chicken stock and clam juice.

    Stirring continuously throughout, the chicken is added first. After approximately five minutes, the diced chorizo and clams should be added, cooking until the Little Necks are almost opened. At that point, it is time to add the lobster and paprika.

    When the lobsters are three-quarters of the way cooked, Mr. LaBue said the mussels, shrimp, and remaining chicken broth and clam juice should be added, and the dish covered and left to cook until the liquid has evaporated.

News for Foodies: 04.19.12

News for Foodies: 04.19.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    In Montauk, Fishbar has reopened for the season. The restaurant is on East Lake Drive, overlooking Montauk Harbor, and has a new chef, Shawn Christman. For now, Fishbar is serving dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. on Thursday and Friday, and lunch and dinner on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 9 p.m.

Hampton Coffee Competes

    The Organic Peru Norte blend by Hampton Coffee Company is in the final top-30 competition for the Coffee of the Year at the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s annual coffee convention and trade show, taking place in Portland, Ore. Seven Hampton Coffee Company representatives are attending the event, of which the company is a sponsor.

Rose Release Party

    On Sunday, Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack will pair an Earth Day celebration with a release party for this year’s Wolffer rosé, which it is calling “summer in a bottle.”

    There will be live Latin jazz by Alfredo Merat and Radio Europa, tastes of fruit and cheese, and a complimentary glass of the 2011 rosé. Those who attend will receive a pair of sunglasses with pink lenses, in order to see the world through rose-colored glasses. A limited supply of the rosé, bottled in a green bottle in honor of both Earth Day and the vineyard’s sustainable viniculture practices, and signed by Roman Roth, the winemaker, will be on sale.

    The event will take place from 1 to 5 p.m. at the vineyard’s wine stand on Montauk Highway. Admission is $25, and advance reservations are being taken.

Yacht Club for Locals

    Between tomorrow and May 20, the Montauk Yacht Club will offer deals to local residents who visit and obtain a 2012 “locals’ keychain,” while supplies last. The trinket will entitle diners to a double discount on Monday and Tuesday nights, to 20 percent off selected bottles of wine on Wednesday and Thursday, and $2 draft beers on Friday and Sunday. In addition, it can be used all season for a 10-percent discount.

Smokin’ Wolf

    Arthur Wolf, who was a chef and manager at Turtle Crossing in East Hampton, will open his own barbecue restaurant this year at the eatery’s Montauk Highway location. It will be called Smokin’ Wolf, and is expected to open in mid-May.

Seasons by the Sea: Early Spring’s Green Delights

Seasons by the Sea: Early Spring’s Green Delights

In a mild winter such as this year’s, herbs like rosemary have not just survived but thrived through the colder months.
In a mild winter such as this year’s, herbs like rosemary have not just survived but thrived through the colder months.
David E. Rattray
The garden is now yielding sorrel, chives, two kinds of mint, sage, lemon thyme, rosemary that stayed green, and a few sweet little volunteer Johnny-jump-ups
By
Laura Donnelly

   Other than the lack of rain, this spring has been beautiful. But what has amazed me the most are the hardy little herbs that survived the entire winter and are now going gangbusters in the garden.

    In the middle of February I was wandering around the Living Room’s kitchen garden and spied cilantro. Cilantro! Granted it was a bit low to the ground with tough stems but I was able to gather enough leaves to go running and yelling back into the kitchen. “Look! We can make salsa! Pico de gallo! In February!” The garden is now yielding sorrel, chives, two kinds of mint, sage, lemon thyme, rosemary that stayed green, and a few sweet little volunteer Johnny-jump-ups.

    According to the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County you can now plant asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, sweet corn, lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, and spinach. As a gardener who is always waiting for the other shoe to drop (late frost, it could happen), I have held off on planting tender greens. As I am also ever fearful of the other hoof to drop (damn deer) I tend to plant flowers, herbs, and bitter greens that Bambi doesn’t go for.

    This spring I have been intrigued by sorrel. We don’t seem to eat much of it in America, but in France and Germany it is a prized spring green. If you have some in your garden, now is the time to use it, when it is at its most tender stage of growth. It is, as the science of food expert Harold McGee has called it, “the startlingly sour” leaf of relatives of rhubarb and buckwheat. It pairs beautifully with fish, makes a wonderful soup with potatoes and leeks, and can be shredded and added raw to salads. As it disintegrates immediately and turns a less attractive olive green when cooked, a nifty trick is to purée it with a bit of butter, which can be stirred into the soup before serving. Garnish with snipped chives or bits of chive blossom.

    I use chives almost every day, chopped chives in scrambled eggs, in corn muffins, salads, and puréed with olive oil to drizzle over seared halibut on a bed of mashed potatoes. Hubba-hubba! Anytime you want a milder, gentler onion flavor, use chives.

    The rosemary that never died all winter has provided flavor for many potato galettes, roast chickens, and butternut squash dishes. Now that the spearmint and peppermint, which also never completely died this winter, are already a few inches tall, I have been using them in both adult beverages and healthy tisanes.

    It is also fun to combine spring vegetables from the markets with what may already be growing in your garden. Peas of all kinds (English, snap, and snow) combined with asparagus and ramps can be garnished with sorrel, chives, and chervil. Artichokes have two growing seasons, spring and fall, but the spring artichokes are the best, larger with tighter leaves and usually at better prices.

    Fava beans are so prized in Italy that they have spring rituals to celebrate their arrival. Also known as broad beans, horse beans, and pigeon beans, they are a labor-intensive bean to prepare, but worth all the effort. Stage one is to string and shuck the beans from their 5 to 7-inch pods.

    Next, blanch the beans so they can be more easily slipped out of their little waxy coating. Then cook a few minutes more, if desired.

    They have a sweet, buttery flavor and the texture of baby green peas. Do not buy favas that appear to be straining to break out of their pods, these will be more mature and slightly bitter. To enjoy the Italian way, set out the blanched beans with a mild pecorino, such as Sardo or Toscano, not Romano, some bread, and a light, crisp, white wine such as a Frascati that matches the fava’s slightly tannic nature.

    Whether you like to plant and forage, shop for your herbs and vegetables, or just be the one who sits on the patio sipping wine and shucking fresh favas, enjoy these fresh and green early days of spring. Here are some recipes to inspire you.

Click for recipes

New Store, Familiar Faces

New Store, Familiar Faces

By
Bridget LeRoy

   The space at 199 Pantigo Road, previously occupied by Pumpernickel’s Deli, has an eye-catching sign in front of it now, heralding the opening of Fish 27, a new seafood store with a familiar face or two.

    The shop is a mom-and-pop venture. Actually, it’s pop-and-son, owned by Jay Gold, a former Clio-winning commercial editor and director, and his son, Derek Miller, who has been in the seafood business on the East End for 15 years.

    Tony Minardi, the former owner of Claws on Wheels, is on deck as catering director, promising “fresh, fresh fish,” he said, and also lending a hand with the retail end of things.

    Clambakes, raw bars, and more are in the works, but for now, the principals are busy planning the grand opening next Thursday.

    Mr. Gold owned a restaurant in the MGM building in Manhattan for a while, and has been coming to East Hampton since 1970, also working as a broker on the South Fork. So why a seafood store?

    He deferred to Mr. Miller, saying, “Derek knows an awful lot about fish.” Mr. Miller worked with Inlet Seafood in Montauk and, he said, “delivered a lot of lobsters to Tony over the years.”

    “We’re going for a nice, warm, wonderful feel,” Mr. Gold said. The store is open, airy, and white, and Mr. Gold said that everyone behind the counter “is a personality.” Anthony Petty, who formerly worked for Second House Tavern, is the chef.

    “We’ll have groceries that will accompany everything we sell. And some Italian specialty items,” like linguine with fresh clam sauce and shrimp scampi with pasta, he said.

    There are plans to carry a mix of fried food and healthy food — like fish tacos and grilled seafood — and the owners are committed to using local vendors as much as possible.

    “We won’t have clams unless they’re local,” Mr. Gold said.

    The Fish 27 Web site is fish27 seafoodmarket.com.

News for Foodies: 03.15.12

News for Foodies: 03.15.12

By
Joanne Pilgrim

A Bit o’ the Irish

    A two-course special for St. Patrick’s Day will be offered at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton on Saturday and on March 25, the day of the Friends of Erin parade in Montauk. A two-course meal for $20 will include a choice of an appetizer and entree, or an entree and dessert. Menu choices include potato leek soup, corned beef and cabbage with potatoes, bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, and sticky toffee pudding. There will also be drink specials and, on Saturday, live Irish music from 3 to 6 p.m.

At the American Hotel

    A wine dinner at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor next Thursday is part of a series called Partners in Living Local, arranged by Jon Leo, a winemaker and Slow Food member. It will feature wine by the Premium Wine Group in Mattituck — their T’Jara Merlot and T’Jara Reserve. The cost of the dinner is $70 plus tax and tip. The hotel is taking reservations for the Slow Food organization’s Josh Levine Memorial Dinner on April 1, honoring a young man who worked at Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett. Tickets can be purchased separately for a cocktail hour with hors d’oeuvres that will be held at Bay Street Theatre that evening from 5 to 7.

Restaurant Week

    Hamptons Restaurant Week begins Sunday. Participating restaurants, a list of which can be found at hamptonsrestaurantweek.com, are offering a three-course prix fixe for $19.95 or $24.95 each evening through March 25, except on Saturday nights, when the special will be available only until 7.

East End Chefs

    Jimbo Renner, the chef and owner of Il Capuccino in Sag Harbor, will prepare a meal next Thursday at the Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor, beginning at 6:30 p.m. The menu will include mussels with poblano peppers, baked local fish, a local spring vegetable, and challah bread French toast with heavy cream and berries. Wine will be served. The program, the first in this year’s East End Chefs series at the church, costs $30. Space is limited, and advance reservations can be made by calling the church.

News for Foodies: 03.22.12

News for Foodies: 03.22.12

By
Joanne Pilgrim

    Ospreys have been sighted and restaurant stoves are heating up after winter dormancy, so it must be spring.

    At the almost-tip of East Lake Drive in Montauk, overlooking the mouth of the Montauk Harbor channel, Inlet Seafood will begin serving lunch and dinner on Thursday, extending its long weekends. Lunch and dinner is served each day.

Gluten-Free Pizza

    Those following gluten-free diets may be heartened to hear that Pepperoni’s, on Springs-Fireplace Road in East Hampton, is now serving pizza made with gluten-free dough.

New BBQ

    Eric and Mark Miller have opened the Millers’ Real BBQ takeout shop at their Food & Co. building on Montauk Highway in East Hampton. The new barbecue spot, with a menu full of smoked, barbecued, and hickory-roasted pork, brisket, chicken, and duck, along with sandwiches, quesadillas, and side dishes, opened last weekend and will be serving from noon to 8 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Catering for a minimum of 10 people is available as well.

Still Restaurant Week

    Foodies readers who have not yet gone out to a restaurant participating in Hamptons Restaurant Week have a few more opportunities to avail themselves of the prix fixe specials being offered through Sunday night. Meals cost either $19.95 or $24.95. A list of the participating eateries can be found at hamptonsrestaurantweek.com.

March Fest

    Just a bit over a week remains of the March to Spring food and wine fest at Michaels’ in Springs. All this month, the restaurant is offering a special including a three-course dinner with three glasses of wine for $45 a person, or the food only, without spirits, at $30 per person. Michaels’ is open nightly, and menus are posted at michaelsofmaidstone.com.

More Market Vendors

    The Fair Foods Farmers Market, held Saturdays at the Bay Burger building on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike in Sag Harbor, will continue until May 12.  Early spring produce from local farmers will be coming soon, but available now are baked goods, Latin American-style empanadas, pickles, East End wines, spices, sauces, jams, olive oils, dairy products, and premium steaks, bacon, and sausages from grass-fed animals. The market is open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

More Mary’s

    Soon devotees of Mary’s Marvelous’s whole wheat maple scones, vegan muffins, and other tasty choices for breakfast and lunch will have two stores to choose from. The Amagansett favorite is expanding to East Hampton Village, where it will take the spot formerly occupied by Bucket’s Delicatessen.

    The new store will be similar to the original, minus the seating, and will have a few additional offerings, like a juice bar, according to Mary Schoenlein, the owner. She is aiming for a July 1 opening, and is contending with the two locations by “splitting myself in half,” she said with a laugh.    B.L.