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News for Foodies: 06.21.12

News for Foodies: 06.21.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

   Andrew Harris, a Montauk resident and owner of the Stonecrop winery in New Zealand, will host a wine dinner tonight at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor to raise money for the East End Classic Boat Society. The $95 cost includes a $50 donation to the society.

    The dinner will begin at 6:30. Stonecrop’s 2011 sauvignon blanc and 2009 pinot noir will be served, along with Jerusalem artichoke velouté soup, a watercress salad, roasted Montauk blackfish with roasted salsify and Yukon Gold potatoes, and a dessert of dark chocolate and olive oil mousse with berries.

    Reservations, if space is available, can be made by calling the American Hotel.

East End Chefs

    Matthew Guiffrida, the owner and chef at Muse in the Harbor, will be featured at the next East End Chefs cooking class at the Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor. Beginning at 6:30 p.m. on Tuesday, Mr. Guiffrida will prepare jumbo sea scallops with artichoke hummus, penne pasta with jumbo shrimp and a healthier-than-usual Alfredo sauce, roasted fennel and tomato orzo, and a special dessert. Wine will be served.

    Admission is $30 at the door. Space is limited, and reservations can be made in advance by calling the church.

Bigger Lobster

    A special two-course lobster dinner at the Harbor Grill in East Hampton includes more lobster than was reported here last week — a one-and-a-half pound crustacean, not a one-pounder. The dinner, offered all night, every night for $29, also includes a soup or salad, corn on the cob, and choice of a side dish.

Backyard Samuelsson

    The Backyard restaurant at Solé East in Montauk will have a celebrity guest chef on June 30. In celebration of his new memoir, “Yes, Chef,” Marcus Samuelsson will prepare a four-course dinner to be served at two seatings, at 6:30 and 9 p.m. Each course will be paired with wines from Bedell Cellars, Channing Daughters, and Clovis Point. Mr. Samuelsson opened Red Rooster Harlem in New York City and, most recently, Ginny’s Supper Club in a space beneath that restaurant.

    He has received several James Beard Foundation awards and was selected to prepare the first state dinner hosted by the Obama administration.

    The cost of the dinner, which includes a signed copy of the memoir, is $125 per person plus tax and gratuity. Reservations are a must and can be made by calling the hotel and restaurant or e-mailing [email protected].

Spring Close Pizzas

    Joe Daniels, the pizza chef at Spring Close restaurant in East Hampton, is firing up the wood oven to make the eatery’s signature pizzas during lunchtime every day. Diners can order from a newly expanded wood-fired pizza menu until 5 p.m.

Bar Bites

    A bar menu is offered at Andrra in East Hampton each day from 3 to 5 p.m., as well as late nights after the restaurant closes and Andrra’s lounge ignites. Among the bar menu bites are “extra-colossal” shrimp, baked clams, and lobster rolls. During a daily happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m., Andrra offers a dozen Napeague clams, or a half-dozen oysters, for $6.

Townline Refreshments

    At Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, a happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday brings bar snacks in the first two hours, including free popcorn and peanuts, hush puppies with chipotle mayonnaise for $2.50, and chicken wings with blue cheese dressing, chili with cheese nachos, and warm pretzels with mustard for $3 each.

    Happy hour devotees can play pool for free, and drink specials include “pint coolers” of beverages such as margaritas, sangria, and cocktails with gin and rye whiskey at prices starting at $4 in the 4 p.m. hour and increasing by $1 each passing hour. There will be specials on beer as well.

News for Foodies: 06.14.12

News for Foodies: 06.14.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    With Father’s Day on Sunday, restaurants are putting out the welcome mat for dads and their families in various ways.

    Osteria Salina in Bridgehampton will serve Father’s Day supper from 1 p.m., with specials and items from the regular menu available.

    Lobsters will be on the menu at the Harbor Grill in East Hampton, which offers a two-course lobster dinner for $29 all night, every night. It includes a soup or salad, a one-pound lobster, corn on the cob, and a choice of side dish. On Sunday, to celebrate the holiday, there will be live music by Johnny Pipes from 2:30 to 5:30 p.m. 

    Navy Beach restaurant in Montauk will give dads who visit on Sunday a free Budweiser or Bloody Mary with their meal, either at lunch or dinner.

    At Andrra, which sits in a prime scenic spot overlooking Three Mile Harbor, a Father’s Day brunch will be served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The three-course prix fixe is $30 plus tax and gratuity, and includes items such as salad, Mediterranean seafood chowder, fried calamari, soft-shell crabs, burgers, lobster rolls, and desserts.

    Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will mark Father’s Day with a $17.50 special on a Rowdy burger or turkey burger, with a mug of beer, throwing in the mug to take home. Rowdy Hall serves lunch and dinner daily, and a midday menu every afternoon from 3 to 5.

Annual Chefs Dinner

    Tickets are on sale for the 2012 Chefs Dinner at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton, a benefit for the school’s Jeff Salaway Scholarship Fund and Jeff’s Kitchen. The event, to be held on July 28 at the school, will feature several well-known chefs, including Eric Ripert, Josh Capon, Justin Smillie, and Amanda Frei­tag. Ina Garten, also known as the Barefoot Contessa, will be a special guest. Numerous local chefs will also participate.

    The evening will include a cocktail party followed by a V.I.P. wine dinner, along with both silent and live auctions. Cocktail party tickets are $150, while tickets for cocktails and dinner are $750. Special seating at V.I.P. tables ranges from $1,500 per ticket to $11,000 for a table for eight. Tickets for children, including a kids’ dinner and child care by Hayground Camp counselors, are $35. Tickets can be purchased online at greatchefsdinner.com.

New Cheeses at Lucy’s

    Lucy’s Whey in East Hampton now has a supply of Grayson, a rich and pungent cow’s-milk cheese from Meadow Creek Dairy in Galax, Va. According to the shop, which has just received the first of this year’s batch, the cheese is a customer favorite.

    Another new cheese at Lucy’s Whey, which is on North Main Street, is from Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont, a new offering called Conundrum, which is similar to a French Muenster cheese.

Anniversary Celebration

    Cafe Max in East Hampton is celebrating its 21st season this week. Diners in parties of four or fewer who mention the milestone between today and next Thursday will be given a complimentary glass of wine with dinner, except on Saturday, when the offer does not apply.

Tastes of Rosé

    At Pierre’s restaurant in Bridgehampton, a meal on June 27 will be paired with rosé wines from Chateau d’Esclans. The menu will include passion fruit ceviche, Chilean sea bass, and Australian rack of lamb. Pierre’s is taking reservations now for the $100 dinner, plus tax and gratuity.

    The evening will include a talk by Paul Chevalier about the Chateau d’Esclans winery. Seating is limited.

East End Eats: A Beer Garden Grows in Montauk

East End Eats: A Beer Garden Grows in Montauk

Toni Ghosh and Julie Chaigneau
Toni Ghosh and Julie Chaigneau
Jane Bimson
Zum Schneider MTK is big
By
Laura Donnelly

  Zum Schneider MTK

4 South Elmwood

Montauk

238-5963

Lunch and dinner seven days

   I have never lived in New York City but I can imagine that one of the coolest things about it is having access to anything you could possibly want. Anything you could possibly want to see, do, hear, and eat. Like suppose you and your hipster friends were sitting around your little apartment in Alphabet City and you all decided you were hungry. Your options are never-ending — Ethiopian, Indian, French, every possible nationality of food is available to you. You can even pop on your porkpie hats and go enjoy an authentic Bavarian beer garden at Zum Schneider, located in the East Village.

   Well, now Zum Schneider has opened an outpost in Montauk at the old Oyster Pond on South Elmwood. Does Montauk need an indoor beer garden?

   Zum Schneider MTK is big. At the entrance is a huge high-ceiling bar with a busty figurehead to greet you. To the left is a continuation of the bar area, picnic tables, benches, wooden chairs, and a foosball game in ase you need to work off that weisswurst and wheat beer. In the back is a larger dining hall, lined with communal tables and more benches. The walls are a dark blue-gray with a few bright blue and white accents to represent the flag of Bavaria.

    Zum Schneider MTK is fairly new and was fairly busy on the night of our visit. Some of the patrons seemed to be flummoxed by the change in decor and cuisine, some seemed to be there specifically for the massive portions of porcine products and hoppy brews. Indeed, we witnessed the table next to us finish everything on their plates, a feat we could not accomplish. No way, no how.

    We were guided on our Bavarian odyssey by the charming and knowledgeable Sebastian, who was, in fact, wearing lederhosen. We received samples of lagers and pilseners and wheat beers, all fresh, delicious, and reasonable. Attention all serious beer lovers: Zum Schneider is the place for you, at least 10 beers on tap, lots of bottled, and even a few tasty nonalcoholic brews.

    We began our meal with obatzda, a cheese spread, some weisswurst, and reiberdatschi, or potato pancakes.

    Obatzda is a traditional cheese spread comprised of brie or camembert mixed with butter, cream cheese, onions, chives, beer, and paprika. This version was mostly brie and blue cheese and colored a brick-orange hue from the paprika. It is served with lots of thinly sliced onions and accompanied by a breadbasket full of good sourdough rolls, excellent rye bread, and soft pretzels. The cheese was a bit overwhelmed by the blue cheese and we think someone in the kitchen was dancing the polka when they garnished the entire plate with gobs of paprika.

    The weisswurst (one of my favorite types of sausage) was very good. Two pale white links were brought to the table floating in their water bath and served with sweet mustard. Sebastian informed us we could remove the skins, although some people don’t mind crunching down on the casings. Weisswurst is a delicate veal sausage flavored with parsley, lemon, cardamom, bacon, and onion — very lean and tasty. The reiberdatschi were delicious, two huge lacy crisp potato pancakes served with applesauce and the house salad. This dish is helpfully marked with an asterisk as a vegetarian option. The house salad was a mixture of romaine and Bibb lettuces, radishes, cabbage, and a few cherry tomatoes. The dressing was forgotten on this salad, which was probably for the best as we couldn’t imagine combining the applesauce with oil and vinegar.

    For entrees we chose the Grosse Wurstplatte, Kasespatzle, and Schweinbraten. The Grosse Wurstplatte is a combination of weiner, weisswurst, smoked beef sausage, bratwurst, and nurnberger with sauerkraut and potato salad. All of the sausages and wieners were tasty . . . but impossible to finish. The potato salad was pretty average. It was similar to deli potato salad but with a bit of mustard for added tang.

    Sauerkraut is sauerkraut. I like it. The kasespatzle is homemade spatzle with cheese, caramelized onions, and bacon. This was also accompanied by the house salad, this time dressed with a nice, lightly sweetened vinaigrette. Spatzle are similar to noodles or dumplings, boiled, then sometimes pan-fried. This dish was delicious, rich, and quite naughty. The schweinbraten was okay. The roast pork shoulder was tender and the gravy flavorful, but the potato dumpling was a bit of a dud, a bit too heavy and gluey. It had a little meaty surprise in the center, rather like a Chinese steamed bun, but I couldn’t identify what it was. The Bavarian salad assortment served with it was good, a few pickled beets, some cucumber salad, and a more traditional vinegary potato salad.

    We had a fun time at Zum Schneider MTK, not so much because of the food, but because of the jolly atmosphere, outstanding beers, and welcoming staff. Besides the ebullient Sebastian, who joined our table at least six times to check on us, talk about his schooling, and try to convince us to come back next Friday for the music, there was our waitress “Yummy Yummy,” from Mongolia, clad in an ensemble somewhere between Lisbeth Salander and a harajuku girl.

    Prices are $7 to $18 for appetizers, $12 to $26 for entrees (except for the Riesen Schlachtplatte which serves six to eight for $115), $6 for sides, and $9 to $11 for desserts.

    For desserts we tried the Bavarian cream and the Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy, chopped German pancake. The Bavarian cream was very nice, rather like a creme brulée panna cotta. It was garnished with a variety of fresh berries. The Kaiserschmarrn probably could do with a better plate presentation. A pile of chopped-up pancakes is just plain weird. They were tasty, though, and fluffy. The applesauce was garnished with thin slices of red grapes.

    If you like beer and hearty German food served in big portions then you will like Zum Schneider MTK, Montauk’s very own, first of its kind, indoor beer garden.

News for Foodies: 06.07.12

News for Foodies: 06.07.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    Reservations are being taken for a June 21 wine dinner at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor featuring wines from Stonecrop, a 20-acre family-owned vineyard in Martinborough, New Zea­land, that produces handcrafted, award-winning pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. The dinner will be hosted by an owner of the winery, Andrew Harris, who lives in Montauk.

    The evening will begin with cocktails at 6:30. On the dinner menu will be Jerusalem artichoke soup, watercress salad with warm chevre and toasted pistachios, and roasted Montauk blackfish served with braised salsify and Yukon gold potatoes. Dessert and coffee will follow. Those who wish to reserve a spot can call the hotel.

New Italian Spot

    Osteria Salina, an Italian restaurant featuring Sicilian cuisine, has replaced Copa at its spot at 95 School Street in Bridgehampton.

Day by Day

    Daily specials at La Fondita in Amagansett are as follows: flautas on Monday, chilaquiles on Tuesday, sopes on Wednesday, chiles rellenos on Thursday, and chicharrones, served several ways, on Friday. On Saturday, the specials are cheese or chicken enchiladas. Sunday specials are pozole, a pork and hominy soup, and a platter with chile-rubbed pork and grilled skirt steak served with salad, tortillas, and refried beans.

Waterfront Lunch

    Andrra, at the end of Gann Road on Three Mile Harbor, is now open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The lunch menu includes a salad, to which chilled lobster, shrimp, or lump crab can be added, seafood chowder, chilled soup of the day, and sandwiches such as a lobster roll or burger on a brioche.

    Also on the lunch menu are some of the Mediterranean restaurant’s specialties, like “Mama’s mussels,” served in a broth of ouzo, white wine, oven-dried tomatoes, shallots, and fennel, and “Toskan BBQ shrimp,” spicy sweet shrimp braised in ale, garlic, and smoked paprika. A raw bar serves Napeague clams, oysters, Maryland crab meat, and colossal shrimp.

Clam Bar Every Day

    The Clam Bar, a roadside stop on Napeague, is serving daily from noon to 6 p.m., weather permitting. Menu items include Cajun popcorn shrimp, steamed mussels, clams on the half shell, fried oysters, scallops, and clams, fish and chips, and lobster served hot or cold and in salad form. Hamburgers, hot dogs, and a grilled chicken breast sandwich are also on the menu.

New Picnic Date

    A picnic that Slow Food East End was to have held at Mecox Bay Dairy Farm last weekend was rained out and has been rescheduled for Saturday from 1:30 to 4 p.m. Those who had reservations for the dairy farm tour, potluck, and cheese and wine tasting, or those wishing to make brand-new ones, have been asked to confirm by sending an e-mail to [email protected].

Prix Fixe

    Gosman’s Topside and Inlet restaurants at Montauk Harbor are offering a $19 two-course prix fixe, with sushi among the choices for diners. The special is offered from 5 to 7 p.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays. A new chef is on board this year.

Food at the Library

    Robert Simmons, a chef and local resident, will be at the Rogers Memorial Library in Southampton on Wednesday at noon to discuss his work and offer samples of some of his dishes. The program is free but reservations are a must and can be made by calling the library.

Belmont Stakes Party

    The Hamptons Players Club, a new polo and equestrian-theme restaurant in East Hampton, will host a viewing party during the Belmont Stakes horse race at 5 p.m. on Saturday. While the race is screened live, the restaurant will offer half-price appetizers and special cocktails.

Wednesday Market

    The Route 27 Farmers Market is up and running for the season, each Wednesday from 2 to 6 p.m. at the American Legion Hall in Amagansett. The market will run weekly through October.

Red Horse Market a Family Affair

Red Horse Market a Family Affair

Bill and Teri Bertha are working together at Red Horse Market.
Bill and Teri Bertha are working together at Red Horse Market.
Bridget LeRoy
The gourmet market opened its doors two weeks ago
By
Bridget LeRoy

   Those who have been in East Hampton for a long time will surely remember the rearing red horse that stood in front of the old Levi’s store at Cove Hollow Road and Route 27, the namesake for the shopping plaza there and now the new Red Horse Market.

    The gourmet market opened its doors two weeks ago, and a tradition is taking hold among the mouth-watering displays of meats, pizzas, pastries, produce, and prepared foods — family.

    The store in its latest incarnation is owned by Tim McClung of Tim’s Meats in Sag Harbor, Pasquale Langella, known for cheese-making skills, especially his mozzarella, and Bill Bertha, a well-known baker extraordinaire, formerly of the Beach Bakery at Gurney’s Inn, famed for his classic scratch mixes. “The butcher, the baker, and the mozzarella maker,” as they refer to themselves, together form a superhero trio of fine foods. And, they have not come to the project alone. Mr. Bertha is accompanied by his wife of 30 years, Teri, whose official title is “key holder” but who acknowledges that she does “a bit of everything.”

    The Berthas’ daughter, Sara Bertha, is also on the floor. In fact, “I’m Sara’s employee. . . . She’s a driving force,” her mother said, and Mr. Bertha nodded in agreement.

    When Mr. Bertha worked for the Beach Bakery, he would bring young Sara with him early in the morning when the baking started. “She would fall asleep down on the floor,” he said with a smile. “We always have spent time together as a family, but we’ve never worked together like this.”

    “I spent 30 years baking at the beach and never saw the ocean,” he said. He acknowledged his joy at now working for himself. “And we couldn’t have done it separately,” he said, speaking of his partners. “It’s just a great match all around.”

    The family connection doesn’t stop with the Berthas. Mr. Langella’s wife, Anna, helps out at the market; his son, Michael, is the store’s general manager. Mr. McClung’s two daughters manage his other store but, according to the Berthas, come to Red Horse too. Mr. Langella’s brother-in-law, Gennaro Giugliano, assists Mr. Langella with the pizzas, cheeses, and sauces.

    “There’s always an owner on the floor,” Mr. Bertha said.

    The store offers a wide range of ready-made products, including a full salad bar, delicatessen, and a hot breakfast and lunch to-go counter. There are also the meats, including an antique drying box filled with beautiful cuts. And there are cheeses, pizzas, and the bakery, which takes special orders for wedding cakes and the like.

    The day before the holiday weekend, the place was teeming with customers, many of whom have enjoyed past incarnations of the market over the last 20 years — Jerry and David’s Red Horse Market, owned by Jerry Della Femina and David Silver along with Ben Krupinski, and most recently Tutto Italiano, an offshoot of Citarella, where Mr. Langella and his brother-in-law became known to many local foodies before the shop closed and they briefly opened Pasquale’s Homemade on Pantigo Road.

    “We’ve been waiting for this to open up,” said Susan Reiland, who was at the Red Horse Market on the opening day. “They’ve done an amazing job.”

   According to Mr. Langella, he sold over 1,000 pounds of his store-made fresh mozzarella over Memorial Day Weekend, breaking any previous record from his other shops. “We’re here to stay,” he said ebulliently. “We aren’t going anywhere.”

    The Red Horse Market will be open daily from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., keeping the long hours to attract the early breakfast crowd and those who can’t get their goods until after work.

    “We’re so excited,” Teri Bertha said. “We’re going to be doing this for the rest of our lives, and we’ll be working for ourselves.”

News for Foodies: 05.31.12

News for Foodies: 05.31.12

Christina Tosi served jugs of cereal milk, cornflake marshamallow, and “compost” cookies and coffee on Sunday morning at the Momofuku Milk Bar.
Christina Tosi served jugs of cereal milk, cornflake marshamallow, and “compost” cookies and coffee on Sunday morning at the Momofuku Milk Bar.
Jane Bimson
Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    A “conscious cuisine” dinner at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will feature a round-table discussion led by Stefanie Sacks, a culinary nutritionist with a show, “Chew on This,” on local cable TV. The event will begin at 6 p.m. with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, to be followed by a healthy three-course dinner prepared by the restaurant’s chef, Joe Realmuto, and chef de cuisine, Ed Lightcap.

    On the menu will be a chopped vegetable salad, grilled asparagus, and a choice of local sea scallops or chicken as an entree. Each course will be paired with South Fork wines from Wolffer Estate and Channing Daughters. The cost is $65 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations have been recommended.

Andrra Summer

    Andrra, the new restaurant overlooking Three Mile Harbor at Harbor Marina on Gann Road in East Hampton, is now open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Between 3 and 5 p.m., a bar menu will be offered. Dinner is served until 10 Sundays through Thursdays, and until 11 Fridays and Saturdays. Andrra’s lounge stays open till 2 a.m.

    A two-course pre-sunset special is offered Wednesdays through Mondays between 5 and 6:30 for $29. It includes any starter and any entree from the regular menu.

Harbor Summer

    Muse in the Harbor, the Sag Harbor incarnation of Muse, which used to be in Water Mill, has also announced extended hours. It is now serving dinner nightly till 10, or till 11 Fridays through Sundays, as well as brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The bar remains open till 2 a.m. on weekends.

Cromer’s East

    An item here last week about Ray Samot, a well-known butcher, did not note that the meat counter he is now manning, at the new Hampton Seafood Market on Race Lane in East Hampton, is affiliated with Cromer’s Market in Noyac, where Mr. Samot had been stationed. In an e-mail to The Star, Mr. Samot expressed his enthusiasm for bringing the “hometown touch” and expertise offered at Cromer’s to the East Hampton location.

 

East End Eats: Andrra Is Dreamy

East End Eats: Andrra Is Dreamy

Mediterranean-inspired seafood, a sleek and modern interior, and spectacular sunsets add up to fun at Andrra on Gann Road in East Hampton.
Mediterranean-inspired seafood, a sleek and modern interior, and spectacular sunsets add up to fun at Andrra on Gann Road in East Hampton.
Morgan McGivern Photo
The cooking is in the Mediterranean style with emphasis on seafood
By
Laura Donnelly

   Andrra

39 Gann Road

East Hampton

329-3663

Dinner nightly

Lunch in summer

   The beautiful new restaurant at the end of Gann Road, most recently the Boathouse, and for many years Bostwick’s on the Harbor, is now Andrra, which means “dream,” and dreamy it is, beginning with the view. This particular spot on Three Mile Harbor doesn’t just have a simple, unobstructed water view; it presents a glorious panorama of boats, inlets, islands, and eddies, more like a delta, as one guest observed.

    Andrra has been renovated and opened by the brothers Sami and Noti Krasniqi with a business partner, Rich Silver. Sami Krasniqi is the executive chef and Bill Valentine, a longtime Hamptons chef, is the consulting chef. The space is sleek and modern with glossy white beadboard ceilings, deep slate blue walls and lots of mirrors to reflect the water view. A big outdoor lounge area greets you at the entrance. There are no bad seats at Andrra.

    I have been to Andrra several times since its recent opening and I have to admit this review is probably premature. So let’s cut them some slack for the few bumblings and fumblings we experienced.

    Each time I have been, the service — from the hostesses to the bartenders to the managers — has been friendly and welcoming. Tasim Kastrati, long ago the maitre d’ of Gordon’s in Amagansett, is at Andrra meeting and greeting and seating with a smile for everyone. The waiters, runners, and busboys, however, need a smidgen more training.

    Upon being seated you get some warm pita bread with a ramekin of garlicky herb butter and a dish of excellent marinated olives. For appetizers we tried the calamari fritti, crudo trio, baked clams, and cold soup of the day.

    The calamari fritti is worth the trip, super crunchy on the outside, still tender inside and served with a spicy harissa aioli. The crudo trio, while attractive, was most assuredly missing an ingredient or two. Fresh tuna, fluke, and salmon were served with a few drizzles of a spicy oil but nothing else, no citrus to give it zing or salt to give it umami. We each tasted a tiny bite and then my friend who ordered it sent it back to be substituted with the wedge salad.

    The wedge was a winner. Three small wedges of iceberg lettuce (so much more manageable than a huge quarter of a head), were dressed with a marvelous creamy gorgonzola dressing and sprinkled with garlic confit and cubes of crisped pancetta bacon. The baked clams were very good but a bit bready. The soup of the day was a thick puréed zucchini soup with a few chunks of lump crabmeat on top and some swirls of creme fraiche. The soup had a hint of curry and spice, very nicely balanced.

    For entrees we ordered the Canyons yellowfin tuna, branzino, ocean diver scallops, and Valentine’s soft-shell crabs. The tuna was cooked medium rare as ordered, and had a delicious lemony herbed sauce. It was served with Israeli couscous and vegetable tava, a mixture of peppers and squash, somewhat like ratatouille without the eggplant. The branzino was prepared the same way but was a bit underseasoned. My friend substituted the Tavarro mushrooms for the couscous, which were delicious and meaty and would be excellent with steak. The diver scallops were also very good, nicely caramelized on the outside and not overcooked.

    The soft-shell crabs were good, not great. They lacked the hoped-for crunch, but the cumin coriander butter sauce and coleslaw served with them were very good. We also got a side order of the Northeast Bay fries, which were superb, hand-cut fries with skin on, dusted with a bit of Old Bay seasoning and fried to perfection.

    The restaurant is big and it was packed on our most recent visit. Some dishes weren’t cleared, a soup spoon had to be requested, and the servers seemed a bit overwhelmed. But again, Andrra is a mere few weeks old. Prices are moderate to expensive and the menu is fairly short.

    The cooking is in the Mediterranean style with emphasis on seafood. There are a few mysterious items. I’m not sure what Toskan BBQ means, or Tavarro mushrooms. We did learn that ajvar, an offering on the Andrra mezze platter, is nicknamed “Serbian salsa,” a mixture of peppers, eggplant, garlic, and chilies.

    Prices are $8 to $20 for soups, salads, and starters, $9 to $80 for raw bar offerings (the tower of seafood carries the $80 price tag), $25 to $43 for entrees, and $9 for sides and desserts.

    All desserts are made in house, including the ice creams and sorbets. We tried the dulce de leche ice cream, the New York-style cheesecake, and baklava. The dulce de leche ice cream was very good, rich and caramely. The New York style cheesecake was not New York style at all. Rather than the tall white fluffy cheesecake with a whisper of a crumb crust that we associate with New York style, it was a thinner cheesecake with a thick graham cracker crust. It was excellent, however, full of vanilla bean seeds and a bit of citrus. The baklava, two dainty squares of it, was good, full of walnuts and pistachios, but I prefer it with crisper phyllo dough and a bit more drippy honey syrup. The humidity of the harbor will probably always wreak havoc on the crispness factor of any food served here. It was served with lovely, delicate threads of julienned candied orange peel and Chantilly cream, a nice touch.

    Over all, our experience at Andrra was great fun and some of the dishes I look forward to trying again. The few missteps and moderately faulted dishes can be tweaked, and time and training should help the staff. Until next time, I bid the boys of Andrra “Sretno!”

News for Foodies: 05.24.12

News for Foodies: 05.24.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

Farmers Markets Open

    In Sag Harbor, the weekly farmers market on Bay Street, in front of the Breakwater Yacht Club, opened on Saturday with a vine-cutting ceremony in appreciation for the support of Sag Harbor Village and the hamlet’s chamber of commerce.  The market will continue each Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through October. A complete list of vendors is online at sagharborfarmersmarket.org. Shoppers will find seasonal produce as well as other locally produced foods such as raw honey, grass-fed beef, cheese and other dairy products, fish, ice cream, empanadas, preserves, and baked goods. Among the new purveyors joining the market this year is the Blue Duck Bakery of Southampton.

    The weekly East Hampton Farmers Market gets under way for the season tomorrow, in the parking lot of Nick & Toni’s on North Main Street. Also from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., rain or shine, the market features 22 vendors selling everything from produce to pastries, pickles, condiments, and more. Seven newcomers this year include Dolce Nirvana, serving up desserts; Goodale Farms, with fresh goat and cow’s milk products; Life Is Grruff, which sells natural pet treats; Joe & Liza’s Ice Cream, from Sag Harbor; Pierpont’s Blossom Farm, which grows herbs and flowers; Raw Oasis Foods, offering raw dairy and gluten-free foods including cheeses and sweets, and True Blue Estate coffee.

    The market participates in the United States Department of Agriculture Nutrition and Food Service Program, allowing those with food stamp benefits to purchase items there, and accepts credit and debit card payments for all transactions.

At Andrra

    A daily happy hour at Andrra restaurant on Gann Road in East Hampton from 4 to 6 p.m. will feature drink specials and orders of a dozen Little Neck clams or half a dozen oysters on the half shell for $6 each, along with the view of the sun sinking low in the sky over Three Mile Harbor.

    On Sundays, Andrra is serving brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., for $30. The menu, to start, includes salads, Mediterranean seafood chowder, fried calamari, mussels, baked clams, and oysters and clams on the half shell. Entrée choices include spinach and feta omelette, barbecued shrimp, eggs Benedict, soft-shell crabs, grilled salmon, herb-crusted roasted flounder, burgers, and lobster rolls. For dessert, there will be house-made baklava, berries with Chambord and prosecco served with vanilla-bean gelato, and flourless chocolate cake, as well as cookies, biscotti, sorbet, and gelato. From 4:30 to 6:30 on Sunday afternoons, Telly Karoussos will play acoustic Mediterranean tunes.

Beer in Montauk

    Zum Schneider Montauk, the eastern branch of a New York City restaurant and beer garden, is open and serving seven days a week, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

    Sandwiches on the menu include one made with a traditional Bavarian cheese spread of Brie, blue cheese, and beer, topped with onions, and another with thinly sliced white radish, Swiss cheese, and pickles. For starters, there’s a mixed plate of cold cuts, cheeses, radish, and pickles; potato pancakes, and several varieties of sausage. Entrees include Montauk bass marinated in smoked beer, with horseradish cream, Wiener schnit­zel, roasted pork shoulder, and a variety of sausage platters.

Hometown Butcher

    Ray Samot, a local butcher, has joined the staff at Hampton Seafood in East Hampton. Mr. Samot began working at Dreesen’s in East Hampton in the late ’70s, after that iconic store closed he worked at Citarella, and most recently at Cromer’s Country Market in Noyac.

Gosman’s Nightly Specials

    At Gosman’s Dock in Montauk, a lineup of nightly prix fixes begins with Sunday lobster night, with a 11/4-pound lobster and fixings for $24, burger and brew night on Monday for $15, local catch night on Tuesday,  with a fish dinner and a glass of house wine for $24, fried shrimp night on Wednesday, for $15, and steak night on Thursday for $24. Service begins nightly at 5 p.m.

More in Montauk

    South Edison restaurant will feature $1 Blue Point oysters from its raw bar during a 2 to 5 p.m. happy hour on Saturday and Sunday, along with $2 Blue Point beer drafts. A happy hour menu will also be available, with other kinds of oysters and seafood, fresh veggie chips, homemade pickles, and more, along with signature cocktails. The happy hours will continue on weekends through June. South Edison is open for dinner from Wednesday through Sunday.

    Navy Beach restaurant, a popular sunset spot on Fort Pond Bay, is launching a sunset-photo contest, with entries accepted from tomorrow through July 4. Prizes will be awarded for the three best sunset photos taken from Navy Beach. The first-place winner will receive a $125 Navy Beach gift certificate and a hooded sweatshirt, and the winning photo will be used on a Navy Beach postcard.

    Contestants can find more details at the Navy Beach Web site, navybeach.com, and can submit entries through the restaurant’s Facebook page.

Milk Bar

    Another city business heading soon to Montauk for the summer is Momofuku Milk Bar, which has five spots in New York City. They will be serving iced coffee, slushies, cookies, cake truffles, and pies, next to the Cynthia Rowley shop on Main Street.

In Amagansett

    After a long winter’s absence, Eli Zabar’s Amagansett Farmers Market will be up and running as of today, with meats, produce, bread, cheeses, sandwiches, and more, much of it local.

News for Foodies: 05.17.12

News for Foodies: 05.17.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    On Montauk’s Main Street, 668 the Gig Shack is serving lunch, with a menu including house-smoked pulled pork sandwiches, burgers, seared sea scallop sandwiches, and fish tacos. This year, the dinner menu includes a house-smoked rack of ribs served with cornbread and slaw, a char-grilled Angus rib-eye steak with fresh chimichurri, yellowfin tuna steaks, and tuna tartare taquitos.

“American Meat”

    Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton will host a reception after a screening of the documentary “American Meat” at Guild Hall on Saturday.

    The reception, from 4:30 to 5:30 p.m., will include hors d’oeuvres made with locally sourced and naturally raised meat, prepared by Nick and Toni’s executive chef, Joseph Realmuto, and served with local wines from Bedell Cellars and the Wolffer Estate Vineyard and craft beers from Greenport Harbor Brewing Company.

    In addition to the movie ticket cost, the reception will be $25 per person. Tickets can be purchased online at nickandtonisamericanmeatscreening.eventbrite.com.

More New Zealand Wine

    At a wine dinner at Fresno restaurant in East Hampton last week, Gretchen Menser, the chef, paired wines from several New Zealand wineries with fluke crudo, as a starter, grilled prawns, short ribs, and flourless chocolate cake.

    South Pacific Wines hosted the dinner, which began with a tasting of seven wines from the Crossroads winery, two from Curious Cove, both of which are in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, and one selection each from Mana NZ, a Martinborough winery, and Crown Range of Central Otago, New Zealand.

Happy at Andrra

    Andrra, new this season in the space at Harbor Marina in Springs where the Boathouse was for the last couple of years, is welcoming neighbors with a locals’ happy hour on Mondays from 3 to 8 p.m. Those who buy an appetizer will receive a free drink. Joe Kastrati will be the guest bartender. Also at Andrra, during a Sunset Sunday happy hour beginning at 4:30 each weekend, there will be music by Telly Karoussos, a singer and songwriter.

New Eateries

    Nammos Estiatorio will open this summer at 136 Main Street in South­ampton, which most recently housed Nello Summertime, and, back in the day, the Post House. Emmanouil Aslanoglou, the chef, will prepare the restaurant’s Greek and Mediterranean specialties and offer charcoal-grilled whole fish entrees. The restaurant will become a lounge on the weekends.

    Beaumarchais opens tomorrow night at 44 Three Mile Harbor Road in East Hampton. An eastern branch of the restaurant of the same name in Manhattan’s meatpacking district, it will serve dinner for now, and then brunch as well beginning Memorial Day weekend. On Saturdays and Sundays, the restaurant will have a “Beau brunch” with international D.J.s from 2 to 6 p.m.

    The Hamptons Players Club, a restaurant and lounge with a polo and equestrian theme, will open next weekend in the Montauk Highway, East Hampton, spot where the Beachhouse has been. Hector Diaz, the chef, who has cooked at the Forge in Miami and at Tsunami in Palm Beach, will prepare modern American cuisine, including specialties from a wood-burning oven. An outdoor beer garden will have its own menu. At night, a V.I.P. lounge will be open for cocktails as well as private dining and events.

New Montauk Eateries Abound

New Montauk Eateries Abound

Samuel Joyce, a chef at Gosman’s for 34 years, has opened his own harborside restaurant called — what else — Sammy’s.
Samuel Joyce, a chef at Gosman’s for 34 years, has opened his own harborside restaurant called — what else — Sammy’s.
Janis Hewitt
Rush is on to open (and re-open) restaurants by Memorial Day
By
Janis Hewitt

   This is the season of new Montauk restaurants, with more of them to choose from in the eastern hamlet than ever before. Several had soft openings last week and have been pretty busy ever since.

    The Coast on South Euclid Avenue, where Luigi’s used to be, had a crowd last Thursday, its first day. The bar, which in keeping with the coastal theme is called the Sandbar, was filled, the tables there and in the dining room were also filled, and a crowd of locals milled outside near the dock pilings, at slatted wood tables and chairs.

    Inside, the sushi bar was jumping. Trays of seafood samples were passed around — ceviche on serving spoons, panko-crusted scallops, mussels, and more, followed by foods for all tastes: pasta dishes, steaks, burgers, and a variety of fresh seafood.

    The owners are Sue and Tony Berkhofer and Serena and Dustin Schick, all of whom have worked in other Montauk restaurants. Mr. Berkhofer, the executive chef, has worked at West Lake Clam and Chowder House and Sloppy Tuna. Mr. Schick, the sous-chef, was also at the Clam and Chowder House, and has cooked on fishing boats as well. Ms. Schick, the bar manager, is a licensed boat captain and has worked on her parents’ boat, the Lazybones, for many years. Ms. Berkhofer, the general manager, has worked at Solé East and other establishments hereabouts.

    The Coast will feature innovative cuisine using the freshest seafood available. As the transition continues, what doesn’t work will be removed and replaced with something different, said Ms. Berkhofer.

    Capt. Michael Vegessi, Ms. Schick’s father-in-law, who was dining there on Sunday, said that “Chef Tony is so creative that he can pull a whole new menu out in one day.” He added that Mr. Berkhofer is “experimenting with flavors and marinating, and receptive to feedback.”

    The Coast will be open Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. until it empties out, said Ms. Berkhofer, with brunch on Sundays, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., starting on Mother’s Day. The menu is online at thecoastmontauk.com.

    Diners will find new faces and familiar places at Sammy’s, on West Lake Drive in the harbor area. Samuel Joyce, a Montauk native who was the head chef at Gosman’s restaurant for 34 years, has just opened his own place, something he has always dreamed of. “I live in Montauk, I always wanted to have a restaurant in Montauk,” he said on Monday while relaxing over a cup of coffee with his night bartender, Lenny DeFina, who recently sold Lenny’s on the Dock and was planning to move to Florida. “But Sammy called and made me an offer I couldn’t refuse,” he said, gold bracelets jangling.

    The restaurant is decorated with sepia-tone and black-and-white photographs from the collection of Mr. Joyce’s mother, Peggy Joyce, who was a longtime kindergarten teacher at the Montauk School.

    Since Sammy’s is so close to the docks, a pleasant briny scent lingers as you enter. Potted flowers are abundant, and outdoor wicker seating invites conversation, maybe while visitors are waiting for a table. Mr. DeFina made it a point to mention that Mr. Joyce does not let a plate be served until he has put the final touches on it, with added seasonings and garnish. The menu is informal and includes nachos, oysters, baked clams casino, mussels, soups, salads, sandwiches, and entrees, which can be ordered tapas style or “grazing‚” as Mr. Joyce called it. So far, said Mr. DeFina, scallops, shrimp, mushroom caps, and lobster tacos have been big sellers, with repeat diners.

    Patrons can eat at the bar, or outside when weather permits. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; to midnight in summer. Children are welcomed with a kid-style menu and coloring games. There will be a special menu for Mother’s Day.

    Speaking of Gosman’s, it too has undergone a revamp, with a new chef, David Piacente, new menu items, new glassware and plates, and a whole new style of food, although it wouldn’t be Gosman’s without its traditional seafood meals and lobster, which remain. The seaside restaurant at the mouth of the harbor is open every day for lunch and dinner except Tuesdays.

    ZumSchneider MTK, Bavarian Bierhaus, had its soft opening on Saturday and drew a sizable crowd. Located on South Emery Street in the downtown area where Oyster Pond used to be, it boasts over 25 beers on tap along with bottled beer, and a slew of German dishes that include fish, meat loaf, grilled trout, soups, and pork. Owned by Sylvester Schneider and family, the restaurant will continue its soft openings for the next few weekends until May 21, when it will be open full time. More information is available at zumschneider.com.

    And coming soon: Sloppy Tuna, on the oceanfront South Emerson Street location  where Nick’s used to be, underwent a winter renovation and will open by Memorial Day. The owners have hired a local chef, Reed Lucas, and have wisely improved upon their great view with an upstairs bar overlooking the sea. There are also new restrooms and a new menu.

    Jennifer Meadows, who is the chef at Fishbar, will soon open Bliss Kitchen in downtown Montauk. It will serve fish tacos, burritos, specialty sandwiches and pannini, ceviche, and other specials

    The renovation continues at Swallow East on West Lake Drive, a branch of Swallow in Huntington. The former home of Lenny’s on the Dock, it too is expected to open by Memorial Day.

    It doesn’t look good for Salivar’s this year. The restaurant has just started a major cesspool project and remains boarded up.