When it was recently suggested that I do a story on foods that help us get through the winter doldrums, I immediately wiped my greasy fingers on my paper towel napkin, adjusted the waistband on my sweatpants, set aside the 1/10 that remained of the artichoke dip I had decided was my dinner, and wondered, “Why did I just eat that? What compelled me to make a rich, gooey, fat-laden dip for a meal?”

Well, it was what I had been craving for days, warm and creamy, garlicky, full of Parmesan cheese. . . . And I hadn’t intended for it to be the whole meal, I just couldn’t eat anything else afterward.

The foods we crave at this time of year and the foods we should be eating are not necessarily in sync, but they can be. It’s nice to spend more time in the kitchen, warming it up with simmering stews, hearty soups, casseroles, and gratins. When I began to research which foods were the best for your health and well-being, there were some predictable “superfoods” — walnuts, blueberries, leafy greens, etc. — but also some surprises. Who knew pumpkin seeds could be bad? Well, they’re only bad if they’ve been coated with something called potassium bromate, a preservative which blocks iodine from being absorbed by the thyroid, so read the label.

We all know vegetable shortening is a no-no, but who knew that pastured lard is a better substitute? The main fat in pastured lard is oleic acid, a monounsaturated fat. Stearic acid, the main saturated fat in lard, is not linked to an increase in heart disease, nor does it impact cholesterol levels. Even pastured butter is recommended over margarine.

Agave nectar is another no-no. Who knew? It’s billed as natural and healthy because it doesn’t raise blood sugar. However, the excess fructose increases risk of metabolic syndrome, increasing the chance of brain shrinkage and mood instability. Best to use just a little bit of maple syrup or local honey as a sweetener.

Let’s just run down the bad foods first, the ones you might be tempted to turn to on a cold, dark, gloomy day. Number one, basically anything you can buy at a gas station or 7-Eleven — potato chips, pork rinds, sodas, bagels. Holiday hams and hot dogs, any processed meats with nitrates are bad, as are triple shot espresso drinks, white chocolate, fast food fries, too much alcohol, and cupcakes! Who knew a cheerful little round of cake slathered in butter cream could be so bad?

Sweet potatoes are good for you but not if you pile on the butter and swirl in the brown sugar and top with mini marshmallows. Dark chocolate is very good for you in small doses, say one ounce per day of 63 to 70 percent cocoa. Chocolate contains mood-boosting theobromine and phenylethylamine which helps reduce stress hormone levels.

Walnuts are good because they are full of alpha-linolenic acid (A.L.A.), a form of omega-3 fat. Flaxseed and chia seeds are also in this category.

Greek yogurt is good because the protein can raise levels of mood-improving neurotransmitters like dopamine and norepinephrine. Quinoa, brown rice, oats, and whole wheat pastas are nutrient-rich carbohydrates. I am a firm believer in low-fat, not low-carb diets and studies have shown that those on a low-carb diet for a year experience more depression than those on a low-fat, complex carbohydrate-rich diet.

Low-fat milk is good because it provides vitamin D. Extra virgin olive oil is good as part of the Mediterranean diet, which is known for an abundance of fish, vegetables, legumes, and whole grains. Collard greens, spinach, and Swiss chard are some of the rock stars of good-for-you in winter foods, full of B vitamin folate. Folate can also be found in broccoli, liver, and beans. Turkey is good because it contains tryptophan, an amino acid that the body uses to create mood regulating serotonin and melatonin. It can also be found in pineapple, asparagus, and lobster. Who knew?

Soy and soybean products such as tofu are great for you, as are salmon and trout, which have two omega-3 fats, EPA and DHA.

Some of the more surprising foods are blue potatoes, mussels, cherry tomatoes, and coconut. Blue potatoes are excellent because they have anthocyanins, powerful antioxidants and iodine, much like blueberries, eggplant, and black beans. Mussels are excellent because they are full of zinc, iodine, and selenium, the protein highest in naturally occurring vitamin B-12. Cherry tomatoes are loaded with lycopene, an antioxidant found mostly in the skin. Coconuts are full of medium-chain triglycerides, which keep the brain healthy and fuel better moods. Use coconut unsweetened in yogurt or in a smoothie.

I have no idea what a medium-chain triglyceride is but the more research you do, the more you will find the same foods mentioned again and again.

So once again, here are the top healthy foods to combat the winter doldrums: Greek yogurt, quinoa, brown rice, low-fat milk, soy products, dark leafy greens, turkey, walnuts, oatmeal, dark chocolate, eggs, honey, coconut, blue potatoes, bananas, sweet potatoes, salmon, papaya, and honey.

Dr. Oz recently trumpeted barramundi fish as a “superfood we all must eat now!” His claims that it is a vegetarian fish (it is not) and that it has higher omega-3 levels than salmon (it does not) led the head of Australis Aquaculture to correct his mistakes. If you don’t mind buying fish flown from Australia (locavores cringe here!), then by all means, jump on the barramundi bandwagon.

So to eat well and eat healthily this winter, you could be as extravagant as supping on lobster and asparagus with darling little blue fingerling potatoes and papaya for dessert. Or you can keep it simple and cheap with mussels, brown rice, lentils, spinach salad, and an apple crisp. I’m just glad my artichoke dip ­didn’t turn up on the bad list.

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    Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett will be closed on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, so some minor renovations can be done. The popular Main Street eatery will reopen next Thursday.

Winter Prix Fixe

    At the 1770 House in East Hampton, a winter prix fixe offered Sunday through Thursday, excluding holidays, features three courses for $35 and a chance to sample dishes made by the restaurant’s new chef, Michael Rozzi.

Kids Eat Free

    The family-friendly Harbor Grill on Three Mile Harbor Road in East Hampton will provide for kids 10 and under who come for Sunday brunch or dinner with their parents or other adults. Children’s food and beverages will be free.

“Taste, Wine, and Dine”

    A program at the Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton on Friday, Feb. 8, will feature a five-course dinner by the chef de cuisine, Mathias Brogie, and a tasting of six wines selected by the wine director, Chris Miller. Guests will then be able to select three of the six wines to accompany their dinners. The cost is $125 per person plus tax and gratuity. Reservations are required, as space is limited.

    The menu will feature a first course of juniper-cured gravlax, followed by veal carpaccio, cardamom-blackened codfish, beef bourguignon, and tarte Tatin for dessert. There will be two seatings, at 6:30 and 7:30 p.m.

Eat, Watch Football

    For Super Bowl Sunday, Townline BBQ in Sagaponack will offer a “pigskin Sunday” deal, with freshly smoked pork. For $16, it includes a half pound of meat served with potato bread and barbecue sauce or with tortillas and avocado salsa, and a choice of two sides. With a can of Porkslap beer, the special is $19.

    Also on Sunday, Townline will offer half off pork ribs, while supplies last, and fresh margaritas, along with beer specials on pints and pitchers, and bar snacks. Takeout party combos are available as well, for Super Bowl parties at home.

Artists and Writers Night

    Almond will hold its fourth monthly Artists and Writers Night on Tuesday, this one hosted by Jill Musnicki, a Sag Harbor artist. The Bridgehampton restaurant will serve a family-style three-course dinner, and Ms. Musnicki will lead a discussion. The cost is $40 in advance or $45 at the door and includes dinner as well as a glass of local wine or craft beer.

   The trip had been planned for almost a year. My friend Tommy organized the entire shebang; I was just a grateful-to-be-invited tagalong. The countries on our itinerary are places I have longed to see for much of my life: Thailand, Myanmar (formerly Burma), and Cambodia. When you are already enamored of a people and their cuisine, it is inevitable that you will fall more deeply in love when you are immersed in their culture.

    We were four people, with strict self-imposed limits of one carry-on bag each. This was wise and prudent as our travels would entail a total of 12 plane rides in two weeks. Ironically, the only major screwup was in America, courtesy of United Airlines, which cost two of us a day and night in Bangkok, but gave us a full day and night in Narita, Japan. This day we spent exploring by foot in pouring rain, visiting a temple and sampling the local delicacy of grilled eel.

    Bangkok was beautiful, hot, and very entertaining. It was something to see the massive effort put into Christmas decorations for the visiting Westerners. Our first hotel on the Chao Phraya River had a huge Christmas tree in the lobby composed entirely of baby’s breath blossoms, tiny white chrysanthemums, and sparkly stars. It also served one of the best breakfasts, a buffet of exotic fruits, rich custards, dim sum, noodles, omelets, fried rice, and the requisite dry cereals, bacon, and sausage for the less adventurous guests.

    It can seem a little off-putting at first to start your day with oily fried rice full of porky cracklins topped with fried shallots, fish sauce loaded with sliced garlic and fiery bird chilis . . . accompanied by a regular old cup of joe. But this early wake-up call for our taste buds became a daily addiction.

    After a visit to the Grand Palace, built by King Rama I in 1782 and home of the Emerald Buddha, we had our first introduction to pomelo salad with shredded chicken, a dish so light and refreshing it was the first thing I attempted to duplicate upon my return.

    In spite of the Christmas decorations everywhere we went it was easy to forget what day it was and that we were away from home with holidays looming. On Christmas Eve we dined at a restaurant called Banh Kanitha, where I turned my friends on to my favorite dessert of all time, sticky rice with mango. It is essentially warm, lightly salty sticky rice topped with a sweet warm coconut milk sauce and surrounded with cool slices of ripe mango.º

    Next stop, Yangon in Myanmar. At this point, we were accompanied by our awesome guide MinMin, who recommended a barbecue “restaurant” within walking distance of our hotel. This place was essentially a huge open-air garage with dogs and cats skulking between your legs and cars driving between the tables. A mysterious array of animal body parts and odd green vegetables were on display. You point at what you want, they cook it, you eat it. I’m pretty sure we had quail, okra, shrimp stuffed with ground pork, and something resembling beef negimaki — thin slices of beef wrapped around scallions and grilled. Every single table around us had a bottle of Johnnie Walker Red and water. This appeared to be the drink of choice with mystery meats.

    Whenever we had an early flight to catch, the hotels would provide a boxed breakfast. This was always a carbohydrate lover’s dream. One morning it was three sweet pastries, half of a buttered cheese sandwich, and cake. The greatest surprise was that even at 5 or 6 a.m. in the airports, someone would be serving up a variety of dumplings with chili sauces.

    Myanmar was my favorite country of the entire trip. The people are gracious, the food a revelation, the temples, stupas, and pagodas breathtaking. We had been warned ahead of time that no credit cards are accepted and only fresh, crisp, brand-spanking-new U.S. dollars are used for currency. There is no cellphone service and access to the Internet slow and spotty.

    We visited bronze casting factories, lacquerware workshops, watched silk and lotus weaving, 24-karat gold-leaf pounding, peanut oil production, and jaggery sugar making. The workers were always young children or elderly women. The country is largely agricultural, the rivers and valleys providing fish, produce, and even wine.

    Some of the local delicacies we tried would be impossible to duplicate, such as pennywort salad. The pennywort leaves, which resemble nasturtium leaves without the peppery bite, must be grown in a tropical environment. The leaves were combined with a bit of garlic, shrimp powder, shallots, toasted chickpea flour, and crushed peanuts. Another traditional salad is laphet thoke, a fermented green tea salad with toasted sesame seeds, roasted soybeans, wedges of tomato, shredded cabbage, garlic, lime juice, and fish sauce. Green papaya salad, which can easily be duplicated here, was sold at every single temple, street corner, and market we went to, all of the ingredients piled high and ready to be assembled to order.

    Each of us was drawn to particular dishes. For Mike it was fish amok, a rich combination of white fish with vegetables and spices cooked in a banana leaf with coconut milk. For Fra it was any healthy vegetable preparation, for Tommy, all manner of salty and unidentifiable meats, for me, just about everything. And yes, at some point, one or the other of us may have gotten the “green apple quick step” as my mother used to so delicately call it.

    By New Year’s Eve we were staying on Inle Lake, traveling by thin, long boats propelled by engines that shriek like go-carts. There was a compulsory dinner, expensive compared to all of our $25 meals for four, and it was almost comical in its splendor and excess. After a Shan dance performance by beautiful girls from a nearby university, we were served scallops and caviar, foie gras terrine, lobster cappuccino, venison, a cheese platter, and the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake.

    Another memorable meal was lunch at a pizza restaurant in the middle of a forest by a river. The owner was thrilled to be able to offer Italian food and gave me a tour of the kitchen. He was also most proud that he could offer what to his mind were the three most important features of a successful restaurant: a bathroom, clean water, a kitchen. The fundamental things that we take for granted were his greatest achievements. The kitchen was, like most, open to the elements with dogs and cats wandering in and out. The tomato sauce was bubbling in a tiny pot on a one-burner electric “stove.” The pizza was delicious, topped with fresh basil and oregano they were growing outside in a dusty red-clay garden.

    Our next stop was Siem Reap in Cambodia to see Angkor Wat. Like hundreds and hundreds of other people, we woke up early to witness the sunrise over this largest religious monument in the world. Built between 1113 and 1150 during the reign of Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat is considered a completely realized microcosm of the Hindu universe.

    Everyone was waiting with cameras ready, outside the moat. Our foursome noticed that, in fact, there were clouds on the horizon and there would be no spectacular sunrise with the gray peaks of the temple reflected in the water. So we wandered into the massive galleries all alone, no guards, no police, no other tourists. We were able to explore each wing with carvings depicting the victory of Krishna over Bana, the churning of the Sea of Milk, heavens and hells, and many, many, many battles. It was still a bit dark outside, making the solitary tour both spooky and spiritual.

    This trip with friends was 95 percent educational. We were always up at the crack of dawn ready to explore until late in the evening. My companions are so much more well-traveled than I. As a matter of fact, Fra is a professional travel guide. Mike was the best of us at trying to learn at least a little bit of the language in each country so he could say hello and thank you to everyone. He also took to wearing the traditional longyi, although it seemed to come untied and slide off his hips every 10 minutes. Tommy, who will admit this himself, has a short attention span (hence the 12 plane rides), and he was my partner in crime in finding the next best meal when we had tired of golden temples, austere monasteries, stupas, pagodas, and palaces.

    Me, I was just enormously grateful to be included on this adventure of history, religion, ancient wars, and cultures. The people, sights, and tastes will remain with me forever. Arigato, Japan! Kob khun ka, Thailand, chei-zu tin-bar-te, Myanmar, and som orkun, Cambodia!

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    A 2009 merlot from the North Fork’s Bedell Cellars was served at a lunch following President Obama’s inauguration on Monday, along with a second course of bison served with red potato horseradish cake and a wild huckleberry reduction.

    A number of New York products were featured at the lunch, which New York Senator Charles E. Schumer arranged as part of his duties as chairman of the inauguration committee. Along with the Bedell merlot, wines from several vineyards in the Finger Lakes region were served.

The Week at Citta

    Tuesday night is pizza night at Cittanuova in East Hampton. A $15 special includes any pizza, served with a quartino portion of Lambrusco wine. On Wednesdays, a New York strip steak, served one of three ways, is $19, and on Thursdays any pasta entree is $15.

    Cittanuova has a happy hour from 4:30 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, during which complimentary food is served at the bar and drink specials are offered, including draft beer for $4 and $5 glasses of wine.

At the Living Room

    Sundays are “family roast” nights at the Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton. For $26, diners can enjoy a roast served family-style, along with meringues and ice cream for dessert. Kids under 7 eat free.

    On Wednesdays, seafood is the focus. An $84 dinner for two (excluding tax and gratuity) includes lobster bisque to start, followed by a raw seafood platter and a small dessert. Thursday brings a 30-percent discount on wines by the bottle that are selected by the restaurant’s wine director and sommelier.

East End Chefs

    The next class in the East End Chefs series at the Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor will feature Marco Barrila from Insatiable Eats in Southampton. Beginning at 6:30 p.m. next Thursday, he will demonstrate the art of making gnocchi with a Bolognese pesto sauce, a traditional Sicilian pulpo salad, and a fresh strawberry tiramisu. Wine will be served.

    The cost is $30. Reservations have been requested, as space is limited, and can be made by calling the church.

Super Bowl Catering

    Orders must be placed by Monday for Super Bowl party catering by La Fondita or Townline BBQ. The two related eateries will work together to provide Tex-Mex packages that feed 10, cost $140, and can include more Mexican-style or more Texas barbecue.

Channing Daughters to N.J.

    Channing Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton has announced that it has received a license that allows it to ship wine to addresses in New Jersey.

At Hampton Seafood

    A happy hour every Thursday from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. at the Hampton Seafood Company on Race Lane in East Hampton brings food specials such as fish or pulled chicken tacos for $3, and oysters on the half shell, or served baked, New Orleans style, for $1 each. Clams on the half shell are 50 cents each, and cocktail shrimp 75 cents each. The menu changes periodically.

   Since 2005, men and women from the local community ranging in age from 18 to 91 have been learning how to integrate plant-based nutrition, fitness, and stress management into their lifestyle through educational programs from the Wellness Foundation of East Hampton. For many who follow the program, daily life involves eating on the go or dining out, recently made more doable with a partnership between restaurants and markets that offer meals that follow a strict criteria.

    Developed for those taking part in the organization’s seven-week Wellness Challenge, the menu items consist primarily of low-sodium, low-fat dishes of plant-based protein and whole grains, with no animal products. “People can still go out and have a satisfying meal, so they don’t feel like they are deprived,” Barbara Kinnier, the program’s director, said last Thursday.

    She works with restaurant managers and chefs to adapt dishes. Some, such as the Golden Pear restaurant, simply have to replace sausage with avocado in a breakfast wrap, for example. Others go a step further.

    Humberto Guallpa, the chef at Page at 63 Main in Sag Harbor, created lunch and dinner offerings specifically for the program, said the restaurant’s owner, Jerry Wawryk. The healthier dishes are signified by a green “W” on the menu. During dinner hours, the restaurant serves a thin quinoa pasta with local organic vegetables,finely chopped, simmered, and flavored with a cilantro almond pesto. Mr. Guallpa said more options will be available in season, and that he is always happy to cater to customers with dietary restrictions, including vegans and those with food allergies.

    In Amagansett, Stuart’s Seafood Market has “W” menu items, as does Mary’s Marvelous, also located in East Hampton. The Golden Pear offers breakfast and lunch Wellness Challenge dishes in its Sag Harbor, Bridgehampton, and East Hampton locations. Also in Bridgehampton, Almond Bar and Restaurant participates.

    Provisions in Sag Harbor offers its own wellness menu, and program-compliant dishes are also available at LT Burger, Muse in the Harbor, Dockside, and Sen in Sag Harbor, and Simply Sublime in East Hampton.

    Gurneys Inn and Spa was immediately receptive to the idea in Montauk, Ms. Kinnier said, and in East Hampton, Babette’s has quite a few “W” selections. The list in East Hampton goes on to include East Hampton Gourmet, Rowdy Hall, Fierro’s Pizza, the Golden Pear, Hampton Market, Hampton Seafood Company, the Mill House Inn, and Pepperoni’s. In Wainscott, Wellness Challenge selections are available at Breadzilla and Nichol’s restaurant.

    It is a win-win situation, said Ms. Kinnier. Restaurants love it because servers don’t have to go to the cooks and chefs asking questions. Patrons love it because they can eat out while also sticking to the program.

    Ms. Kinnier began her wellness career when she founded the first Weight Watcher’s group in Sag Harbor, which she led for five years. She then became certified as a fitness instructor and a personal trainer.

    Now a nutritional consultant, she has used her passion to educate about health and wellness at adult education programs in Sag Harbor and East Hampton too, and is a member of the American Association of Drugless Practitioners.

    The list of Wellness Challenge-approved restaurants and markets is growing. Those that wish to be added have been asked to contact Ms. Kinnier at [email protected].

    The Montauk Brewing Company, begun by three young local men, is gaining recognition as more and more people sample its signature Driftwood Ale. The beer is now available at the Corner Bar in Sag Harbor, which can fill a pint or a growler to take home. The brewers’ tap room, out in Montauk across from Lions Field, is open on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 5 p.m.

Reopening

    After a short break, the Bell and Anchor in Noyac is reopening this evening for 2013. The restaurant, co-owned by David Loewenberg and Sam McCleland, the executive chef, debuted in May. Among the favorites on the menu is a “tuna bowl” appetizer. Other starters are pork belly with local oysters and kimchi, and guava baby back ribs, served with or without fries. On the entree list are lobster thermidor, and a grilled sirloin burger. Brunch items include a crispy portobello mushroom with roasted red peppers, smoked mozzarella, and lemon-caper butter, duck hash, lobster benedict, and French toast.

    Another of Mr. Loewenberg’s endeavors, little/red in Southampton, has a new menu and new hours for the winter. The restaurant is serving dinner on Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., with dinner hours extended to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Lunch is served on Friday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and an “in-between” menu is offered on those afternoons from 3 to 5.

    The lunch menu includes fried calamari and zucchini with spicy tomato sauce, lobster and corn quesadillas, lobster salad, a vegetarian burger, and a bacon and grilled cheese sandwich with tomato. On the dinner menu are appetizers such as prosciutto and fig with arugula, shaved Manchego cheese, and honey-balsamic dressing, tuna tartare, and chilled poached shrimp and smoked salmon with dill, cherry tomatoes, and Dijon vinaigrette. Entree choices include pan-seared scallops with mashed cauliflower, sauteed shaved brussels sprouts, and bacon beurre blanc, braised lamb shank with pasta and winter vegetables, and rigatoni served with sweet and hot sausage, peas, and tomato sauce with a touch of cream.

Last Chance Before Break

    Fans of the cheeses and other goodies at Lucy’s Whey in East Hampton may want to take advantage of a 30-percent-off sale this weekend, as the store will be closing until spring after Saturday. Hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. tomorrow and Saturday.

   Those who know, return repeatedly. Those who don’t are missing out on a flavorful experience offered even in the sleepy wintertime in Greenport. Aldo’s Cafe is awake seven days a week, year round, with the aroma of fresh coffee, hospitality, rich tastes, and a picturesque view of the Mitchell Park waterfront.

    Aldo Maiorana roasts, grinds, and fresh brews every cup of coffee served at the cafe. As he serves customers, he often talks about what makes a perfect coffee drink: the proper color of espresso, the ideal consistency of foam, or how his favorite, a macchiato, is just lightly stained with milk before it is topped with grated chocolate.

    He will tell you what he finds unacceptable, too. Skim milk, for example. “Not a chance,” he said, when asked if he serves it, his Italian accent adding emphasis to the indignity of the suggestion. “It’s water . . . makes no sense.” His goal is to bring pleasure and satisfaction to his customers’ palates. “Otherwise, it’s not worth it,” he said.

    “Decor, garnish . . . I don’t want it,” he said on Saturday afternoon. Standing by a new $11,000 espresso machine with unfinished Sheetrocked walls behind him, he said that it is not how expensive or fancy a restaurant is, how decorated a plate, or how large a portion of food that matters.

    Taking a chunk of chocolate from a jar and placing it into a large red cup, he melted it with a steamer wand, demonstrating its consistency, but transferred it to a smaller cup before allowing a taste. “More is not better,” he said. He steamed organic milk and poured it over the melted chocolate, then encouraged a customer to sit down and enjoy it with a buttery, crunchy, pecan raisin scone.

    Although he serves takeout coffee, as well, he draws the line at espresso. “It takes two minutes to drink it,” he said. “Why such a rush?” He also wondered about the American habit of walking around with a cup, “like a security blanket,” he said.

    He tastes with his nose, he said, and communicates through food, as well as in several different languages. Originally from Sicily, he lived there until he was 9 years old and then in France for 18 years, where he worked for the commander of the French navy and owned a cafe. After his arrival in the States 34 years ago, he said he began to bake bread because he was disappointed with the choices he found.

    Same with coffee beans. Now, after 26 years of roasting, he said, “I am very sure of what I do.” Starting with good coffee, like the organic beans he chooses from areas such as Guatemala, Costa Rica, Indonesia, Bali, Ethiopia, and Kenya, helps.

    Mr. Maiorana, who said he was “probably the first small-batch roaster on Long Island,” began back when Greenport was a ghost town. He also owned a full-service restaurant and a sushi cafe in the village before scaling down to his current cafe that offers only coffee, scones, and biscotti. Bags of beans and ground coffee are also available there and online.

    Loyal customers frequent the cafe not only for delicious coffee and decadent scones, but for Mr. Maiorana’s gentle spirit and gift for storytelling. As he sat to chat beside newly installed picture windows with a view of the village’s ice skating rink, he said, “kids love me,” a fact proved by a local woman who showed him a family portrait her daughter drew at school, which included him. Another customer approached his table to say, “your coffee made my holidays wonderful.”

    Sometimes in summer, there is a 20-minute line for coffee. “People don’t mind,” he said. Even when Starbucks was across-the-street competition for a few years, there was still a line.

    Aldo’s coffee is available at Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton. Aldo’s scones and biscotti can be found on the South Fork as well, at Hampton Coffee Company locations in Water Mill and Westhampton, where the scones are baked on the premises.

    In Greenport, Aldo’s hours are not posted on the door, but his “when I come here and when I leave,” schedule means the shop is usually open until about 5 p.m., and his employees cover when he’s not on site, as they will soon when he travels to France for a truffle festival.

    Among his plans for the near future is a new 2,400-square-foot location down the road that will focus exclusively on chocolate, and the addition of food to his cafe.

    “Cooking and baking is simple,” he said. “You deliver what you promise. . . . Performance is the main ingredient.”

   The 1770 House in East Hampton has a new chef. Michael Rozzi, an East End native who was a chef for 13 years at the former Della Femina restaurant in East Hampton, took his new post on Monday. He has also cooked at Le Chef and the Inn at Quogue. At Della Femina, Mr. Rozzi was sous chef to Kevin Penner, now the executive chef at 1770 House. He replaces Matt Birnstill, who left to pursue other cooking endeavors. Mr. Rozzi’s culinary focus is the use of local ingredients.

Cafe Max on Break

    Cafe Max in East Hampton is closed for a winter break.  The restaurant will reopen in February.

Careful Cooking

    A Memorable Meals program at the Rogers Memorial Library in Southampton on Wednesday will focus on cooking for those with restricted diets. Christie Koth, a nutritionist, will give a short talk and a cooking demonstration on preparing meals for those with digestive diseases and food intolerances. The program begins at noon. Admission is free, but reservations are required. They must be made by Sunday, by calling the library, or at myrml.org.

The Meeting House

    At Meeting House, a restaurant in Amagansett Square, dinner is served six nights a week. The restaurant is closed on Monday. A three-course prix fixe is offered for $30 all night on Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, as well as on Friday until 5:30 p.m.

Italian Specials

    Also in Amagansett, the folks at Felice’s Ristorante and the attached Astro Pizza are offering some winter deals. At the restaurant, diners may order two selected entrees for $25 on Sunday through Thursday ($30 on Friday or Saturday). The choices include eggplant or chicken Parmigiana, fish of the day over pasta, pasta Bolognese, pasta with meatball and sausage, penne a la vodka, or manicotti. A $30 takeout special from the pizza parlor side includes a choice among two large cheese pizzas, one pizza and baked ziti, a large pizza with a topping, salad, and panini, three heroes with salad, or baked manicotti, ravioli, and salad.

Stuart’s Seafood Special

    As a wintertime special, Stuart’s Seafood Market in Amagansett is selling lobsters for $10 a pound. Local bay scallops are still available.

Sit-Down Chinese

    Out in Montauk Wok ’n’ Roll is offering diners who come to eat at the restaurant a two-for-one deal. There are also lunch specials for $5.95. The deals are offered on Sunday through Friday, except on Tuesday, when Wok ’n’ Roll is closed. Anglers who bring in their catch can have it prepared by the chef — steamed, fried, broiled, or sautéed, with a choice of sauces.

Cook, Talk

    A series of cooking classes by the Loaves and Fishes cooking school in Bridgehampton will offer singles a chance to meet and greet this winter. Sessions will be geared to those under 50, or to those aged 50 and up.

    The next class, on Saturday from 6 to 9 p.m., will be for the over-50 crowd and center on bistro-style fare. The cost is $165, which includes a meal.

   As winter descends on the South Fork, locals and visitors alike can take comfort in the knowledge that the Southampton Publick House brand of craft beers is in the capable hands of a brewmaster with long experience and a track record of success. With the spring departure of Phil Markowski, the longtime brewmaster at Southampton Publick House, came the ascension of Evan Addario, who had served as assistant brewer for several years.

    The move is a significant one in the now-crowded field of craft beer, said Don Sullivan, the Southampton Publick House proprietor. “I really liked the idea of a younger pair of eyes, a younger personality, looking at what we will do in the next 10, 15 years,” Mr. Sullivan said. “Sometimes — myself included — you’re in the same spot, doing the same thing, and your perspective may not be on the leading edge anymore.” The promotion of Mr. Addario, who was effectively the brewer of operations for the last few years, Mr. Sullivan said, “makes me be much more aware of what the newer brewers are doing.”

    None of which is to minimize Mr. Markowski’s contribution to the brand. “My first hire was my best hire, Phil Markowski,” said Mr. Sullivan. Already an experienced and well-regarded brewer when he signed on at Southampton Publick House’s inception, “the idea was that our mission was to brew small-batch, eclectic styles of beer. Phil was very enthusiastic about that. Before we started, we had a clear vision of the types of beer we wanted to brew and become known for. We were very fortunate that, very quickly, our beers were well received.”

    Southampton’s cosmopolitan, international mix of residents and visitors, Mr. Sullivan said, is reflected in the Publick House’s brews. These, he explained, are characteristic of small-batch, “farmhouse” ales inspired by the saison and Trappist brews found in Belgium, France, and southern Germany, strong in flavor and alcohol content. Beers, Mr. Sullivan said, that were not found in the United States prior to 1996, when the Publick House began brewing.

    The early success to which Mr. Sullivan referred includes high honors at the Great American Beer Festival, the annual event in which thousands of beers by hundreds of U.S. breweries are sampled and judged. Southampton Publick House owns three gold, four silver, and two bronze medals from the festival, which puts it in the top 20 breweries in the country. BeerAdvocate magazine named Publick House Top Brewpub in 2003, and the Web site ratebeer.com ranked it the number 8 specialty brewery worldwide in 2004.

    It’s been a wild but challenging ride for Mr. Sullivan, who launched the restaurant and brewery with two brothers (he acquired their shares in the business six years ago). Brewing became a focus by happenstance, he recalled. His successful business designing and consulting for back-of-house restaurant needs led him to three New York-area brewpub projects in the early 1990s, during an early surge of small breweries. At the time, Mr. Sullivan owned Riptide, a restaurant on the Shinnecock Canal that is now known as Tide Runners.

    “It was apparent to me that if you could find the right location, you had a chance of success,” he said, although “you would need to be sure you had pretty damn good beer. I saw in one of the trade papers that the restaurant company that owned this property filed bankruptcy.” One week later, he was attending bankruptcy proceedings in a Dallas courtroom, and a few days after that he was ordering brewery infrastructure in Canada. “I think my wife was more shocked than anything else,” Mr. Sullivan remembered.

    An early, singularly important hurdle was to convince a nation of Budweiser drinkers to try something different, more complex. The challenge was taken as an opportunity, Mr. Sullivan said. “I would always tell any new employee, ‘Whatever they say they want, let’s pair what we have most similar in style to what they like.’ If they’re a Bass Ale drinker, our I.P.A. is perfect. If they’re a Budweiser drinker, our lager or Pilsner. If they’re a light beer drinker, Montauk Light, our own light beer. If they’re a Guinness drinker, we would recommend whatever dark beer we have. Then people really get it.”

    The American craft brew movement did not arise in a vacuum, he said, citing the farm-to-table, local-food movement. Southampton Publick House is also attuned to the seasons, offering its restaurant patrons and consumers Oktoberfest Lager and Pumpkin Ale in the autumn, or Imperial Porter, a winning, flavorful dark beer, in the winter. An appropriate brew can be paired with offerings from the restaurant’s menu for a satisfying fireside dining experience at the Publick House.

    The brand is now available in 22 states, spanning the East Coast and across the Ohio Valley, and its reach continues to expand. “We have year-round beers available in a six pack, and every season there’s a rotating beer,” Mr. Sullivan said. The brand’s specialty brews, he added, are available in specialty beverage stores and reflect the brewer’s creativity and willingness to go beyond traditional ideas of purity. “The American craft beer movement really did push the envelope of what would be acceptable, if you will. When you look at what brewers can do, there’s really no limit. It’s just a little bit of imagination.” At the Publick House, eight of its beers are on tap daily, among them Burton India Pale Ale, Keller Pils, Southampton Double White, Montauk Light, and Southampton Altbier.

    Future plans include renovations to the building to allow small-batch bottling onsite, so that some of the brand’s more eclectic offerings can be packaged in 750-milliliter bottles. In the meantime, Mr. Sullivan and Mr. Addario are charged with maintaining the brand’s position at the vanguard of the craft beer field. “Today, a lot of breweries are producing like-minded beers,” Mr. Sullivan observed. “There’s an explosion of new product, both imported as well as domestic. But we’re known as one of the leading proponents of farmhouse ales. We’ve had terrific continuity here, at all levels, from our management to our front-of-house people, and Evan has earned the opportunity to take over the lead brewer position.”

    Mr. Sullivan, who has served on the board of the Parrish Art Museum for more than a decade, also maintains strong ties to the community. “The Parrish was and still is a big part of Southampton Village and Southampton Town. As a business that’s really dependent on visitor traffic to the village, a healthy village is good for me, and especially for a public house. We chose the name to be a member of the community: public house means a meeting place, a point of destination, open to all, private to none.”

    “Sometimes,” he concluded, “you take a leap of faith, and this was a hell of a leap. But at the end of the day, anything for a beer, right?”

   The next Artists and Writers Night at Almond restaurant in Bridgehampton will be on Wednesday. Kathryn Levy, a poet who lives in Sag Harbor and New York City, will host the evening and lead a discussion, the theme of which will be Frank O’Hara’s “Lunch Poems” and Larre’s, a French bistro where O’Hara and other writers and poets gathered.

    Jason Weiner, the restaurant’s chef, will serve a family-style three-course meal. The cost is $40, plus tax and gratuity, and includes a glass of local wine or craft beer. The monthly dinners are designed, according to Almond, to continue “the time-honored Hamptons tradition as an incubator of creativity,” providing an opportunity for artists and writers “to gather together to exchange thoughts and ideas while enjoying a great meal.”

    Ms. Levy, whose poetry and reviews have been featured in numerous publications and anthologies, was nominated for a Pushcart Prize and has received writing fellowships from Yaddo and the Vermont Studio Center, among other places. She works as a teacher and arts consultant.

Seasonal Specialties

    At the Living Room restaurant in East Hampton, the menu now includes seasonal dishes with Scandinavian flavors. Among the appetizer selections are sweetbreads with langoustine, sauerkraut with chive beurre blanc, taco foie gras with mango salsa, pistachios, and edamame puree flavored with fish sauce, and pickled pumpkin salad with chevre and walnuts. Entree choices include coq au vin, grilled red tail venison, and lemon-glazed monkfish.

Bar Menu at Plaza Cafe

    The Plaza Cafe in Southampton has a new bar menu that will be offered Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Among the available dishes will be grilled seafood tacos, spicy rock shrimp tempura, mussels with curry broth, burgers — in both traditional and black bean versions — grilled pizza, and roast chicken.