I have a huge cookbook collection. I am constantly editing, but the collection grows. People give me books, I buy more. I am first in line at the cookbook booth at the Ladies Village Improvement ­Society Fair. I have even bought back books I donated to the L.V.I.S. That’s mental.

    And this collection was never well organized until I moved. These books now reside in a little closet lined with shelves. I am proud to say they are currently arranged by nationality, single subject, resource, narrative, local, etc. I recently began to ponder, which 10 books are my absolute favorites, and why.

    When I mentioned favorite cookbooks to a fellow foodie friend, he insisted that I must include Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and “Joy of Cooking.” Sorry, I seldom crack either of these open. Some of my choices are sentimental, some books I simply love for their pictures, menus, and stories. Here are five favorites.

    Edna Lewis was an African-American born in Freetown, Va., in 1916. In her 80-year lifetime she published four books and worked for many years at Cafe Nicholson in New York City, where she was best known for her roast chicken and chocolate souffles. Craig Claiborne declared her book “The Taste of Country Cooking” “the most entertaining regional cookbook in America.”

    The menus are mouthwatering. How does this one, for a late spring dinner, sound? Skillet spring chicken with watercress, buttered Jerusalem artichokes, garden green peas in cream, biscuits, pear preserves, and rhubarb pie. Here is another menu, this one for Christmas Eve supper: oyster stew, baked country ham, scalloped potatoes, pan-braised spare ribs, ham biscuits, wild blackberry jelly, watermelon rind pickles, yellow vanilla pound cake, hickory nut cookies, dandelion wine, plum wine, and coffee. Keep in mind that every meal that was prepared in Freetown was grown, fished, farmed, hunted, preserved, and foraged.

    Aside from having so many simple but delicious seasonal recipes, this book also was my favorite because when my son was attending East Hampton Middle School he would read this book in the car every day on his way to and from school. I think there is something comforting and cozy in Edna Lewis’s manner of writing that even reached a 10-year-old boy.

    Richard Sax’s encyclopedic “Classic Home Desserts” has more foolproof delicious recipes than any other dessert book I own. Mr. Sax was a prolific chef and cookbook writer and was the founding director of Food and Wine magazine’s test kitchen. Sadly, he died of AIDS at the age of 46. His book is filled with historical tidbits, entertaining quotes, and has the best pie streusel, ginger hottentots, butterscotch pudding, and lemon custard ice cream. It has fools and syllabubs and flummery, crisps, compotes, and cobblers. He even had a soft spot for ancient English recipes, which he appreciated for their “unadorned frankness.”

    Douglas Rodriguez’s “Latin Flavors on the Grill” is one of my favorites because it was a gift from my brother, Sherman, and it is just so darned good. Mr. Rodriguez has been dubbed the godfather of Nuevo Latino cuisine. By the age of 13 he had his own collection of pots and pans and cookbooks. He is the author of four books and has several restaurants throughout the country. Every time I am looking for a light and spicy way to prepare fish, I turn to this book. Tuna with mango ginger lime mojo, salmon with dill chimichurri, and clams with chipotle cachucha mojo with bacon are outstanding. This book also has the best chocolate cake recipe, ever.

    Martin Picard is a wild man, French-Canadian chef, author, and TV personality. His restaurant, Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, is famous for elevating Quebec’s “muscular” food to new heights. It is loud and bawdy, a bastion of excess. Foie gras appears on the menu in every way, shape, and form. His cookbook “Au Pied de Cochon” looks more like Hunter S. Thompson’s rambling stories in Rolling Stone illustrated by Ralph Steadman. There are spatters of blood, pig’s feet, and foul language. This book was a gift from my son, who knows what I like.

    Mr. Picard is an avid hunter and fisherman, as well as an expert maple syrup maker. This book is full of stories about the people who fish and farm for him, full of photographs of the messy behind-the-scenes world of restaurants, and most of all, full of Mr. Picard’s passion and love for what he does — feed the lucky gourmands who flock to Au Pied de Cochon.

    The late Lee Bailey was a resident of Bridgehampton and the author of several lifestyle cookbooks. He contributed stories to Vogue and The New York Times and had a charming little housewares shop in Henri Bendel. His book “Country Weekends” transports you to the beach, to the field, and to the garden for simple, accessible meals, or as the title proclaims, “recipes for good food and easy living.” His lovage and apple stuffed roast chicken with pan gravy is my favorite go-to chicken recipe. Now imagine it accompanied by the rest of his menu, grits souffle, beet and carrot puree, flaky biscuits with parsley butter, followed by grapefruit sherbert and candied grapefruit rind! The table settings and flower arrangements are beautiful but look like something any of us could do. Or as Mr. Bailey said, “there is a kind of appealing grace in having the end result of a project, food or otherwise, seemingly brought off without strain.” The book is set up from Friday evening meals to more elaborate Saturday suppers to Sunday lunch and finally Monday diet meals. Who knew white china, wildflowers, and your back porch could make a meal feel special?

    I am the kind of cookbook owner who dog-ears pages, spatters the recipes, and makes notes in the margins. Some might find this disrespectful, but when I open one of these favorite books and find a favorite old recipe that I have been preparing for over 30 years, I don’t see stains and scribbles, I see history and love and many, many meals shared with family and friends. Thanks to Edna and Douglas and Richard and Martin and Lee.

Click for recipes

Now For Home

    The tomato sauce prepared and used at Astro Pizza and Felice’s Restaurant, the side-by-side Italian spots in ­Amagansett, can now be purchased for use at home, and even ordered by mail. Containers come in two sizes: 16 ounces for $5.50 and 36 ounces for $7.50. Homemade pizza dough and the restaurants’ homemade balsamic vinaigrette dressing are also available in takeout packages.

Heating Up

    Slowly but surely, the restaurants that have been shuttered for a winter break are reopening. In Montauk, Sammy’s by the docks will fire up the stove once again tomorrow, and will offer St. Patrick’s Day-inspired prix fixes nightly through March 17.

    The Coast restaurant, downtown in Montauk, reopens next Thursday, and will serve dinner beginning at 5 p.m. on Thursdays through Sundays. Next Thursday, as well as on March 21 and 28, there will be a family trivia night, with teams of four to eight people competing.

    An admission price of $20 for adults and $10 for children includes dinner, with children offered a choice among three entrees and a dessert, served with a juice box, and the grown-ups offered a choice of soup or salad, and one entree of three on the list.

    Advance reservations have been suggested and can be made by calling the restaurant or sending an e-mail to reservations@ thecoastmontauk.com.

Chocolate and Wine

    At Wolffer Estate vineyard in Sagaponack on Sunday, a chocolate sommelier will offer tastes of different sweets, all paired with wines. Roxanne Browning will discuss the cacao varietals and blends, and their terroir.

    Four different pairings will be served during two sessions. The first will be from 12:30 to 1:30 p.m., followed by a 2 to 3 p.m. tasting. The cost is $35 per person, plus tax, or $30 for Wolffer wine club members. As seating is limited, reservations should be made online at wolffer.com

Highway Diner and Bar

290 Montauk Highway

East Hampton

631-324-0130

Sunday through Thursday,

10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Friday and Saturday,

10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

   I had been wanting to try the Highway Diner and Bar ever since it opened. Every time I drive by, it is packed. The concept is genius — an affordable, kid-friendly diner by day, a bit more of a cool hangout at night.

    There are diner items available, such as egg creams and reubens, buttermilk pancakes every which way, and an accessible children’s menu. But there is also wild mushroom ravioli, quinoa, local black sea bass, and tuna tartare. Diners have cooks, Highway Diner and Bar has a chef. Robert Gurvich, a chef who has been working on the East End for many years, hails from New Orleans and his cuisine reflects this with such offerings as shrimp and grits, gumbo, and po’ boys. We sampled all of these and they were as good and authentic as you could hope for.

    Highway Diner and Bar is in the space formerly occupied by Rugosa. The physical space feels large and boxy. For a fine dining establishment such as Rugosa, this felt awkward and cold. The folks behind Highway Diner and Bar, Gunar Myers and David Kuperschmid, have worked this to their advantage. The space is even more open, with clean lines, light colors, and chic design. The floors and tables are light wood, the walls white, with touches of their signature cornflower blue logo here and there. There is a handsome bar to the far right upon entering, tables and booths throughout the L-shaped space, and a long dining counter on the near right side.

    We began our meal with Caesar salad, roasted beet and goat cheese salad, and the crispy shrimp and calamari. All were excellent. Caesar salad seems so simple to make but so many versions are shy on the garlic or the anchovies or the lemon juice. This version was delicious, with finely chopped romaine hearts, pale and delicate, but the dressing was gutsy and zesty, perfectly balanced. The addition of lots of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and homemade croutons just make it all that much better. The roasted beet and goat cheese salad made me just as happy as a clam because it was made with Bibb lettuce, something you almost never see on restaurant menus outside of France. The dressing was excellent, either a sherry or red wine vinaigrette. The crispy shrimp and calamari appetizer was also great. The shrimp and calamari were super crunchy from the batter and cornmeal, there were some paper-thin zucchini chips scattered in with them, and the spicy aioli (I’m guessing chipotle) was addictive. We then moved on to the oyster po’ boy, chicken and andouille gumbo, and a special that day, shrimp and grits. The oyster po’ boy was delicious, full of crunchy but not overcooked oysters, bits of roasted tomato, more of the spicy aioli, all on the kind of bread they use in New Orleans. It is soft on the inside, crisp on the outside, very light, making it the perfect conduit for the fillings. It was served with a light coleslaw, not too mayo-y, flecked with whole mustard seeds.

    When the bowl of gumbo arrived at the table I could already tell it was authentic. It had the gray-brown color of a properly made roux with sassafras file powder. You could see plenty of “the holy trinity” of bell peppers, onion, and celery so prevalent in Cajun cooking. I haven’t talked about the prices yet but this was a complete meal, y’all. For $8.

    The shrimp and grits was also very good, it had plenty of shrimp, along with slivers of mild roasted garlic, sliced scallions, and little cherry tomatoes. The grits were of a very high-quality stone-ground variety, not the tiny, mushy kind you find in the grocery store.

    The service on the day of our visit was excellent. Erica, our waitress, was efficient, knew the menu, and had a good sense of humor. The place was packed and there were lots of children but on this particular visit, every one of them was well behaved. Shocking. There appeared to be plenty of managers-partners onsite, checking on tables and greeting guests. A charming fellow named Seth made sure we had the appropriate hot sauce for our dishes.

    For desserts (all are made in-house) we tried the chocolate hazelnut mousse, chocolate peanut butter cream pie, and an ice cream sandwich. The chocolate hazelnut mousse had the flavor and presentation you would expect at a restaurant that charges twice that of Highway Diner and Bar. It was served in multiple layers in a squat martini glass, garnished with chopped roasted hazelnuts and shaved bittersweet chocolate. It was light, not dense, and quite delicious. The chocolate peanut butter cream pie was quite naughty and rich. The bottom crust was a crunchy chocolate cookie-type crust, with about an inch of sweet peanut butter filling, topped with a half-inch layer of chocolate ganache. The remainder of it made another nice dessert that evening. We should have known the ice cream sandwich would be problematic when Erica gave my friend a steak knife to cut it. It was two huge thick chocolate chip cookies with vanilla ice cream in the middle. It was delicious but too hard to cut until it had defrosted for about 10 minutes at the table.

    The prices at Highway Diner and Bar are extremely reasonable, especially con­sidering the quality of the food. Break­fast items are $7 to $16, soups, salads, sandwiches, and starters are $6 to $16, entrees are $16 to $32, sides $4 and $5, desserts $7. All items on the children’s menu are $7. You can get certain cocktails and beers for a mere $9 and $4, respectively.

    I had heard mixed reviews of Highway Diner and Bar before my visit, but I always try to put these opinions out of my head before I try a place. Some people like Escalades and George W., some people like Prius’s and Barack. All I can tell you is my friends and I had a wonderful experience with wonderful food. We saw a lot of our friends there as well, all enjoying their meals. I say this place is a welcome addition to East Hampton. It’s like a good Disney movie — suitable for all ages.

    Rick Bogush, the garden manager at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton, will present “Cooking With Herbs, Part Two” on Sunday at the Bridgehampton Community House. The event will take place from 2 to 4 p.m. Admission is free to Bridge Gardens members, and $15 for others. Reservations have been requested, as space is limited, and can be made by calling the offices of the Peconic Land Trust, which is sponsoring the event, or by sending an e-mail to [email protected].

Italian Cooking

    A series of Italian cooking classes sponsored by the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop in Bridgehampton begins on Saturday at the Bridgehampton Inn and will focus on traditional cuisine in various regions of the country.

    The first session, from 6 to 9 p.m., will center on dishes from Piedmont. The menu will include garlic and anchovy dip with grilled vegetables, meat ravioli, and hazelnut cake with chocolate ice cream. The cost is $165.

     At follow-up sessions on March 16 and 30, dishes from Emilia-Romagna and Umbria will be prepared.

New on the Menu

    Rowdy Hall has some new choices on its lunch menu. They include a duck confit salad with crispy root vegetables and a honey-cider vinaigrette, local cod, corned beef with grilled cheese, and a ciabatta sandwich with crispy pancetta, melted provolone, arugula, and fig jam.

Artists and Writers Dinner

    Susan Scarf Merrell, a novelist and editor who teaches at Stony Brook Southampton, will host the fifth in a series of artists’ and writers’ nights at Almond restaurant in Bridgehampton. On Tuesday night beginning at 7, the event will include a family-style three-course meal and a discussion of the life and work of the author Shirley Jackson, led by Ms. Merrell.

    Shirley Jackson is best known for her chilling short story “The Lottery,” first published in The New Yorker in 1948 and since taught in colleges and high schools across the nation as a prime example of the surprise ending. Ms. Merrell, who is the fiction editor of TSR: The Southampton Review, has written a literary thriller narrated by a woman who moves into Ms. Jackson’s house, which will be published next year. The cost is $40 in advance, or $45 at the door, which includes a glass of local wine or craft beer plus tax and gratuity.

   The idea sprouted two summers ago in his Amagansett backyard with a seed planted by his ex-girlfriend, and now Brendan Davison grows certified organic microgreens at his Good Water Farms in East Hampton and hand-delivers trays of them to top-notch restaurants on the East End and in New York.

    The chefs cut the two-week-old infant greens while they are still alive in the soil from which they grew, so they’re receiving nutrients until minutes before they are eaten. An essential ingredient in Mr. Davison’s “modern boutique farm” is his inclination to “question everything,” he said — an impulse that once got him kicked out of Sunday school. Farming experience in California helped too, as did his study of shamanism.

    With the help of Marsha LaTessa, a “kindred spirit,” Good Water Farms is preparing for a major growth spurt.

    At the 1,800-square-foot “indoor farm,” there is a warm and steamy seed germination room, where life begins before the seedling trays are moved to tables below full-spectrum indoor lighting. From there, they’re moved to a 20-by-40-foot greenhouse just outside the building on Plank Road. The seedlings are watered from below with reservoirs beneath the long, stainless steel tables.

    “It’s not hydroponic,” Mr. Davison explained, because hydroponically grown plants require chemicals. For his microgreens, he said, soil is not only necessary, it’s “the most important thing.” Only certified organic soil from Vermont, which contains an abundance of nutrients including essential minerals, is used.

    Living soil is sacred and people should nourish themselves with a product of it, he said. “We are no different from these plants.” Before Christianity, shamans and pagans worshipped the earth, he said. “To plant a seed . . . this is creating life,” he said.

    A plant’s life progresses from seed to sprout to microgreen, petit green, and baby green before it is full-grown. The first leaves are four to six times more nutritious than mature leaves, Ms. LaTessa and Mr. Davison said.

    Locally, Good Water Farms microgreens can be found in a plastic “clamshell” in the produce section with a 10-day shelf life, or atop salads in the cafe at Provisions in Sag Harbor. They are also sold at the Amagansett IGA, Schmidt’s Market in Southampton, and Naturally Good in Montauk.

    The Topping Rose House, the restaurant helmed by Tom Colicchio, and Almond, both in Bridgehampton, and Sen in Sag Harbor serve Good Water Farms microgreens. In the summer, Surf Lodge and South Edison in Montauk are customers.

    Some customers purchase them through Rustic Roots, an organic home-delivery service, which offers seasonal varieties such as this week’s kale, sunflower, pea tendrils, broccoli, and arugula. The company collects fresh farm products with a goal of delivering within 24 hours.

    Mr. Davison said that the tiny greens can be used in and on salads, in soups, sandwiches, and wraps, in smoothies, or alone as a snack. His 9-year-old daughter likes greens on her pizza, recently asking, “Papa, can we sneak in some greens,” before going into a brick oven pizzeria. Because they’re sweeter than a full-grown vegetable, “microgreens could be the reason kids eat vegetables again,” he suggested. His daughter especially loves the pea tendrils, arugula, and sunflower greens, he said.

    Jason Weiner, the chef at Almond restaurants, pairs Good Water Farms micro opal basil with local tomatoes in the summer. Recently, he added micro arugula to a bay scallop dish with Old Bay hollandaise and house-smoked bacon. “I use his stuff in all three of our places,” Mr. Weiner said. “It adds life to everything I use it on.” He appreciates the “boutique operation that grows in real dirt. . . . Imagine that.”

    “Brendan’s a great guy and his product is quite simply fantastic,” said Mr. Weiner, “and the best part . . . he’s about as local as you can get . . . our kids go to the same school.”

    “Many times Brendan will grow microgreens specifically for one of our dishes based on the flavor profiles we are looking for,” said Landy F. Labadie, the director of food and beverage for the Topping Rose House. Sunday’s menu included two appetizers with Good Water Farms microgreens — one with pea shoots combined with brulée orange, honey, walnuts, and calamata olives, she said. The restaurant also uses red shiso, sunflower, micro wasabi, micro lemon basil, baby cabbage, and baby broccoli from Mr. Davison and Ms. LaTessa’s farm.

    The farm’s focus is on culinary excellence and nutrition, said Ms. LaTessa, “how clean we want our food to be for us, our retailers, our restaurants. . . . It is a lifestyle and a philosophy.” It starts with the seed sourced from reputable companies. “We would never touch anything genetically modified.” The company won’t even use corn-based compostable packaging because so much corn is genetically engineered.

    “Large-scale factory farming is the reason people get sick,” Mr. Davison said. Besides the sprayed chemicals, the percentage of available nutrients is minimal, he explained.

    It is a progressive way to think about food and business, said Mr. Davison, it’s “conscious capitalism.”

Memorial Dinner

    Reservations are being taken for the Joshua Levine memorial dinner, to be sponsored by Slow Food East End on March 24.

    The event honors the life of Mr. Levine, who was a member of the East End farming community. Last year’s dinner raised approximately $18,000 that provided stipends to three master farmers who worked with the Edible School Garden program on the East End.

    The evening will include a two-hour cocktail party at the Bay Street Theatre in Sag Harbor featuring appetizers, sweets, and drinks made by many East End food vendors and chefs, followed by a dinner at the American Hotel, also in Sag Harbor.

    Tickets for the entire event are $150; for the cocktail party only they are $75. An additional $150 donation allows attendees to host a farmer at their table, or makes it possible for an East End farmer to attend the dinner.

    Reservations can be made online at joshualevinefoundation.org.

Silver Anniversary Renovations

    Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton, which is marking its 25th anniversary this year, will be closed until April to undergo some interior renovations designed to update and modernize the space.

    Directed by Cass Calder Smith of CCS Architecture, the project will feature new flooring, tables, seating, and lighting, as well as a new bar. Updates and sneak previews of the work will be posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page.

Chefs at SOBE

    Joe Realmuto, who is the executive chef at Nick and Toni’s as well as at Rowdy Hall, La Fondita, and Townline BBQ, is heading to Miami for the South Beach Wine and Food Festival (SOBE) this weekend.

    Along with George Hirsch, another local chef who also has a cable TV show, he will participate in “The Q,” a barbecue competition hosted by the celebrity chef Paula Deen and her sons. The two will be among 40 of the country’s top barbecue chefs who will serve up their signature dishes. Mr. Hirsch will prepare grilled fillet of beef chilaquiles, while Mr. Realmuto intends to make grilled lamb loin on a johnnycake with yogurt barbecue sauce.

    Mr. Hirsch will also be featured at two other festival events, a “burger bash” hosted by Rachael Ray, where he will be a judge, and the reggae jam closing party, for which he will prepare “George’s One Love wings.” He will also co-host, with Ty Pennington, a Sears-sponsored lounge featuring outdoor living products.

Rowdy Hall’s Annual Contest

    In advance of the Academy Awards show this weekend, Rowdy Hall is running its annual contest to see who can make the most accurate prediction of the winners. Those who dine at the East Hampton restaurant will receive an Oscar ballot form with their check, and can fill it out to enter the contest. Whoever has the most correct predictions will win a $50 Rowdy Hall gift certificate, and two vouchers to the East Hampton Cinema. In case of a tie, a drawing will be held. The contest ends Sunday, before the Hollywood awards ceremony.

Dockside Reopens

    The Dockside Bar and Grill in Sag Harbor reopened last Thursday after a winter break. The restaurant is continuing its Meat-Free Monday program, featuring vegetarian lunch and dinner specials, as well as its inclusion of “Wellness-friendly” menu selections. Seafood served at the Dockside is chemical-free, and meat dishes are made using free-range chicken and heritage-bred pork tenderloin.

    Dockside is serving lunch and dinner five days a week (it is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday) and has brunch service on Saturday and Sunday between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Pizza Deal

    On Wednesday nights, Conca D’Oro restaurant and pizza parlor in Sag Harbor offers two 16-inch cheese pizzas for $23. 

    Reservations can still be made for tonight’s candlelight dinner for two at Gurney’s Inn in Montauk. In case your date misses the hint, the menu choices include heart-shaped ravioli, oysters, and passion fruit mousse. The $150 per couple tariff includes a bottle of champagne and a red rose.

    Gurney’s will also host a renewal of vows ceremony today and Saturday at 5 p.m., with wedding cake, a champagne toast, and a certificate. Former East Hampton Town Justice Jim Ketchum will do the honors, as he has for 13 years. A $10 per person donation to the Montauk Food Pantry has been requested. Advance reservations with Gurney’s have been strongly suggested.

President’s Lunch

    Inlet Seafood, which has just gotten its 2013 season under way, will be serving lunch on Presidents Day, Monday. Normal weekly hours for the time being are noon to 9 p.m. Friday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. The restaurant is on East Lake Drive in Montauk.

An Evening of Seafood

    The Loaves and Fishes Cookshop will present an Evening of Seafood cooking class on Saturday from 6 to 9 at the Bridgehampton Inn. Students will prepare and dine on oysters with horseradish and apple slaw, seafood strudel with saffron sauce, potato-crusted cod with spinach and ricotta tart, and chocolate crepes with blood orange sorbet. The cost is $165.

Baker’s Book Signing

    Kathleen King, the owner and founder of Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton, will be at the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop on Main Street in Bridgehampton on Saturday from 1 to 3 p.m. She will sign copies of her new cookbook, “Baking for Friends,” which contains more than 120 recipes for special occasions and every day, including gluten-free and vegan recipes. Ms. King will also demonstrate how to make something from the book.

For Lobsters, Lovers

    Duryea’s Seafood Market in Montauk is offering its lobster lovers’ special for Valentine’s Day and beyond. For $39.95, it includes two 1 1/4-pound lobsters, a quart of New England clam chowder, and two pounds of mussels or two dozen Little Neck clams. By request, orders can be precooked by the market, which is open daily.

Winter Twofers

    Two entrees can be had for $25 at Felice’s Ristorante in Amagansett Sunday through Thursday and for $30 on Friday and Saturday. Options include eggplant or chicken parmigiana, the fish of the day served over pasta, and penne a la vodka.

New Truffle Salt

    Natalie and Steven Judelson, the folks behind the Amagansett Sea Salt Company, have added a new truf­fle-infused blend to their lineup of ­products. The 1.7-ounce jars cost $12 and are available at Amagansett­SeaSalt.com and frequently at the Sag Harbor Farmers Market. The company’s salts are also sold at Foragers City Grocer at 56 Adams Street in Brooklyn and at  300 West 22nd Street in Manhattan.

On Tap

    Driftwood Ale, the mainstay of the Montauk Brewing Company, is now on tap at the Corner Bar in Sag Harbor. Fans of the beer can load up with a 64-ounce growler at Peconic Beverage on County Road 39 in Southampton.

Mardi Gras

    It will be all king cake cupcakes and light fare and, of course, wine at a Mardi Gras party at the Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack on Saturday from 8 p.m. on. The Hoodoo Loungers will play their blend of funk and Dixieland. Festive attire has been suggested. Prizes will be given for the best mask and for the person who finds a charm hidden in one of the cupcakes. The cost is $55, $50 for Wolffer wine club members. Reservations are a must.

Fat Tuesday at Highway

    Highway Diner and Bar in East Hampton is celebrating Fat Tuesday next week with a number of Big Easy-style dishes. Its chef, a New Orleans native son, is planning to serve up shrimp and grits, crawfish etoufee, red beans and rice, jambalaya, and bananas foster. The specials will be available all day. Beads and masks for all will be available.

Zokkon

47 Montauk Highway

East Hampton

631-729-9821

Sunday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

   First there was Bamboo, then Shiki, now Zok­kon. The charming little building on Montauk Highway in East Hampton has been taken over by the folks at Suki Zuki in Water Mill. Not much has changed in the way of decor. The pillars gracing the entrance have been painted a carnelian red and the walls inside are a coppery hue with huge pieces of driftwood adorning the walls, kind of like free beach art.

   If you are familiar with Suki Zuki, you are probably already a fan of their chicken teriyaki salad and spicy tuna sandwich, both of which you can find here. They are outstanding dishes and are so much more than their names imply.

   The menu offers a great variety of sushi and sashimi with some items you don’t see often, such as sweet shrimp and bluefin toro. There is a good variety of rolls, with sensible names, not like some places that name their rolls after your plumber or yoga teacher, “Josh’s Gigantor” or “Veronica’s Vegetarian Roll.” There is also a specials menu that should be paid attention to, we enjoyed quite a few delicious items from it.

   We began our meal with edamame, the aforementioned chicken teriyaki salad, tuna tartare, fried whole Long Island flounder, and bay scallop carpaccio. The edamame was as it should be, simply steamed to al dente, served piping hot with a sprinkle of salt. The chicken teriyaki salad is a delicious light combination of shredded romaine lettuce, crispy-crunchy Asian noodles, and bits of chicken in a rice vinegar mayo dressing. This $10 appetizer could be a meal.

    The tuna tartare was a bore. A pretty bore, but a bore nonetheless. Attractive cubes of avocado were molded into a round mound with nice fresh chunks of tuna on top. But there wasn’t a single drop of ponzu or sesame oil or vinegar or anything to give it flavor. We weren’t sure if this was intentional or an oversight.

    The fried flounder was dreadful. It was either way, way, overcooked or had been prepared earlier in the day and reheated. The texture of the fish was powdery. After poking around one side of the fish, we flipped it over in the hopes that the other side would be better. It was a teeny bit better, flaky, but still dry as a bone.

    The bay scallop carpaccio, however, was absolutely delicious. The scallops (and plenty of them) were served in a circle atop a bed of shredded carrots and frisee, room temperature, and had a touch of heat, perhaps from a dash of shichimi togarashi, Japanese hot pepper flakes.

    Next we had a few more specials, the chicken pocket, Pink Lady, negima kawayaki, and some rolls: fried oyster and Dakota roll. The chicken pocket was excellent and creative. It was a combination of diced chicken, bits of red and green peppers, jicama, and red onion spooned into endive leaves. The sauce was a bit sweet, like hoisin sauce, which tamed the slightly bitter crunchy endive.

    The Pink Lady, we all agreed, was so delicious it should be put on the regular menu. A mixture of lobster, shrimp, crabmeat, asparagus, and avocado were bound with a bit of spicy mayonnaise and wrapped in delicate rice paper. The negima kawayaki, pieces of duck grilled on skewers, was pretty good, not terribly exciting. The fried oyster roll was excellent, fresh and retaining its crunch inside the rice. Dakota rolls are just about as white bread-mainstream as California rolls, but I love them and always order them when I see them on a menu. This version was excellent, just the right ratio of crabstick, avocado, onion, cucumber, and tempura flakes.

    Service on the night of our visit was pretty good. Our waitress was as sweet as could be, but didn’t seem very well trained.

    The prices at Zokkon are moderate. Appetizers are $3 to $16, kawayaki (grilled or broiled items) $3 to $10, soups and salads are $3 to $21, sushi and sashimi are $3 to $75, ($75 for a deluxe assortment for two), entrees are $19 to $25, desserts $8.

    As desserts are never really a highlight or focus at most Japanese restaurants we decided to try just one, the omnipresent tempura fried banana. It was good, topped with whipped cream, a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the middle, and squiggles of chocolate sauce all over the plate.

    Overall, our meal at Zokkon was very good, except for the few odd failures. We would recommend sticking with the deservedly well known Suki Zuki signature dishes and sushi and sashimi items.

    With Valentine’s Day a week away, choices are vast for those who want to step out for dinner with their sweetheart.

    The Topping Rose House, celebrity chef Tom Colicchio’s new Bridgehampton restaurant, will serve a “romantic” four-course dinner. The prix fixe will include menu items such as fried Montauk oysters with braised chili bacon and horseradish and molasses jus, and whole striped local bass for two. For dessert, one choice will be brioche donuts with a caramelized white chocolate filling. Service will be from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. The cost is $125 for adults and $45 for kids ages 10 and under, excluding tax and gratuity.

    The Valentine’s Day menu at Almond, also in Bridgehampton, will include a four-course meal of seasonal dishes featuring pomegranate, as well as a la carte items. The special, at $60 per person, includes a choice of rack of lamb with couscous, saffron, and Middle Eastern fruits, or pomegranate-glazed Spanish mackerel with fennel served three ways as an entree. For an appetizer, diners may choose iced Montauk Pearl oysters or foie gras. A “middle course” features warm goat’s milk ricotta with pistachios, pomegranate, and fried sage, or Peconic Bay scallops served with pomegranate hollandaise, crispy brussels sprouts, and a quail egg.

    Dessert will be a mocha-pomegranate tart for two, espresso ice cream, or pomegranate granita.

    At the Living Room in East Hampton, a five-course “love menu” will be served on Valentine’s Day, and will include a glass of sparkling Nobless Oblige from Wolffer Vineyards. The menu begins with oysters four ways, followed by curry-crusted scallop carpaccio, a grilled half lobster with fennel and radicchio salad, and tournedos Rossini, a steak dish with foie gras and bordelaise sauce. The cost is $125 per person.

    Nick and Toni’s has suggested reservations for Valentine’s Day dinner, which it will begin serving at 6 p.m. In addition to the regular menu, the restaurant will have specials including a lobster appetizer, and, as an entree, lamb chops with Yukon Gold potatoes and a duck confit torta with broccoli rabe.

Cafe Max

    On Wednesday, Cafe Max in East Hampton will reopen for its 22nd season. A Valentine’s prix fixe will be offered for $37. Reservations have been requested.

Reopening Next Thursday

    Out in Montauk, Inlet Seafood is reopening for the season just in time for Valentine’s Day. Dinner will be served from 4 to 9 p.m., and reservations would be appreciated. The restaurant will be serving lunch and dinner, beginning at noon on Fridays through Sundays.

Chocolate Cherry Kiss Coffee

    This month’s special coffee flavor at Hampton Coffee Company in Water Mill is chocolate cherry kiss. A signature beverage for the month is creme brulee latte. The cafe will be giving out free samples of chocolate cherry kiss coffee daily until lunchtime all Valentine’s week.

Chocolate and Wine

    The Wolffer Estate vineyard in Sagaponack will get Valentine’s celebrations underway with a tasting of chocolates paired with wines on Sunday. Sessions will take place from noon to 1 p.m. and from 1:30 to 2:30 p.m.

    Roxanne Browning, a chocolate sommelier, will describe the different cacao varietals and blends and the terroir, or soil, location, and climate, in which they are grown. Among the tastes will be a Chardonnay paired with a Philippino chocolate, a cabernet sauvignon paired with a Venezuelan chocolate, a cabernet franc paired with chocolate with pink pepper from Madagascar, and a late harvest wine paired with chocolate with cinnamon from Peru. The cost is $35 per person, plus tax, or $30 plus for members of the vineyard’s wine club. Seating is limited, so reservations are a must.

At the Library

    Ashley Foster, the owner of Tasty Bites Catering, which focuses on organic dishes, will present a Memorable Meals program at the Rogers Memorial Library in Southampton on Wednesday from noon to 1 p.m. The program is free, but reservations must be made by calling the library by Sunday. Participants may bring a bag lunch.

Cook, Meet

    A cooking class suggested as a “meet and greet” opportunity for those 50 and over will focus on preparing Long Island duck breast, along with side dishes.

    Sponsored by the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop, it will be held at the Bridgehampton Inn on Saturday from 6 to 9 p.m. and cost $165. Besides the duck, with cabernet-braised cabbage and Granny Smith apples, the menu will include spinach bruschetta with pesto shrimp, savory Tuscan cheesecake, and pear crumble with cinnamon ice cream.

Sweet and Spicy Salmon

    You can toss together just about any combination of sweet chili sauce, garlic, and ginger and throw it on some salmon before grilling, baking, or broiling and it will be good. Serve with brown rice and a salad topped with nuts and dried cranberries.

    Serves four.

11/2 lbs. salmon, cut into 4 servings

1/2 cup sweet chili sauce

1 Tbsp. hot chili sauce, any kind will do

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. chopped garlic

2 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger

    Combine chili sauces with oil, garlic, and ginger, and set aside.

    Preheat oven to 425.

    Let salmon sit out of refrigerator for about 15 minutes before cooking.

    Grease a small casserole or gratin dish with a little bit of olive oil. Lay salmon pieces in dish, then slather with the chili sauce. Bake for about 10 minutes per inch if you like it medium to well done. I prefer a bit of pink in the center so I cook a two-inch thick piece of salmon for about 10 to 15 minutes.

Spinach Stuffed Shells With Tomato Concasse

    This recipe is easy, but requires a little bit of finesse, filling the pasta shells.

    Serves four.

Filling:

2 slices bread

4 large cloves garlic

1 10-oz. package frozen leaf spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

3 Tbsp. olive oil

1/4 cup pine nuts

6 large green onions, trimmed and coarsely chopped

1 tsp. balsamic or red wine vinegar

1/4 tsp. salt

Pepper to taste

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

6 oz. fontina cheese, chilled

12 large pasta shells, whole wheat if you can find them, freshly cooked

Tomato concasse:

1 lb. cherry tomatoes

4 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. fresh basil, chopped

1/2 tsp. sugar

1/4 tsp. salt

For filling:

    Break bread into pieces, then process in food processor until fine crumbs. Set aside. Add garlic and process until garlic is minced.

    Heat olive oil in heavy medium skillet over medium heat. Add pine nuts and cook until golden. Drain and set aside. Next add garlic and green onions, reduce heat and cook until soft, about five minutes. Add spinach, vinegar, quarter teaspoon salt, pepper, and nutmeg and cook until hot, about two minutes. Remove from heat.

    Shred fontina cheese, then add this to spinach mixture along with pine nuts and bread crumbs. Season to taste with salt. Fill each shell with spinach mixture, be careful, you may tear a few.

    For tomato concasse, cut cherry tomatoes in halves or quarters, depending on size. Toss with two tablespoons olive oil, sugar, salt, and basil. Spread this in a nine-inch square glass baking dish.

    Preheat oven to 350. Layer shells over tomato concasse. Brush remaining olive oil over shells. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and baste with the tomato mixture. Bake another 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Ginger Fried Rice

    Here is a good use for leftover brown rice. This recipe is from Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s “Kimchi Chronicles.”

    Serves four

8 Tbsp. vegetable oil

3 Tbsp. minced garlic

3 Tbsp. minced ginger

Coarse salt

2 cups diced leeks

4 cups day-old cooked brown rice

Mild chili powder

4 large eggs

2 tsp. sesame oil

2 tsp. soy sauce

    Heat four tablespoons oil in small nonstick skillet over high heat. Add one tablespoon each ginger and garlic. Cook until crisp, about two minutes. Transfer to paper towel to drain. Sprinkle with salt.

    Heat three tablespoons vegetable oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add remaining garlic and ginger and cook for 30 seconds. Add leeks and cook until they begin to soften, about two minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring often, until it begins to brown, about five minutes. Season with salt to taste and between a half to a teaspoon of mild chili powder.

    Heat one tablespoon vegetable oil in nonstick skillet. Add eggs and cook according to each person’s preference. Sprinkle each egg with a pinch of chili powder. Put rice on platter, top with eggs, sprinkle with fried garlic and ginger, then drizzle with sesame oil and soy sauce.