Farm Fresh Produce

    Matt Laspia, the farmer behind Bonac Farms, is now selling organic produce from a farm stand at the Springs General Store from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Fridays through Sundays. Along with “gorgeous” vegetables, according to Kristi Hood of the general store, he also sells bunches of herb stems that can be used to flavor grilled fish and meats, and dried organic herbs. Coming soon could be jarred tomato sauce made from several varieties of tomatoes grown at Bonac Farms. This week, the general store will be offering a lentil soup flavored with Mr. Laspia’s mustard greens.

    Round Swamp Farm on Three Mile Harbor Road in East Hampton instituted a new fall schedule on Monday. It is now open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Thursday through Saturday, and from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday.

New at Old Salivar’s

    The Westlake Clam and Chowder House in Montauk is planning a move to the building on the other side of the harbor that housed Salivar’s. Construction at the new site is ongoing, and the space will accommodate considerably more diners than the current Clam and Chowder House, which will close its doors at the end of October. The new spot is expected to open next spring.

For East End Foodies

    Brian Halweil and Stephen Munshin, the publishers of Edible East End magazine as well as Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn, have begun publishing a new magazine, Edible Long Island. Of over 80 Edible magazines published nationwide, Edible East End, which was the third to begin publication after the brand was established in Southern California in 2002, has become one of the most successful. Edible Brooklyn was launched in 2006, followed by Edible Manhattan in 2008.

    A membership drive is under way by Slow Food East End, the East End chapter of the international Slow Food organization. The group is among the top three chapters in the country as far as growth in membership, along with the New York City and Seattle groups.

    Slow Food advocates healthy, locavore eating and the development of sustainable food and agricultural practices across the planet. The East End chapter’s goal during this month’s membership drive is to register 30 new or renewing members. Donations to Slow Food USA are 100 percent tax-deductible. Members can sign up at the group’s Web site, slowfoodusa.org. East Enders should designate “NY-East End” as their primary chapter.

For Food Institute

    The Amagansett Food Institute will benefit from an event next Thursday called Dine Out for A.F.I. The organization, which presents programs highlighting the work of local farmers and food producers, will receive a portion of the evening’s proceeds from participating eateries. They include Almond and Fresh in Bridgehampton, and the Meeting House restaurant and La Fondita take-out shop in Amagansett. All will donate 20 percent of their earnings on Oct. 10 to the institute, which currently has 20 members. In addition to helping farmers and food producers make their businesses more sustainable, it coordinates the sale of surplus locally-grown produce to Long Island Cares, an island-wide food bank, and is raising money to develop a commercial kitchen food-business incubator on the South Fork. More information can be found at amagansettfoodinstitute.org.

Sunday, Family Night

    Sunday is “family night” at Fresh in Bridgehampton. Beginning at 4 p.m., the restaurant will offer a family style dinner for $59 plus tax and gratuity, which will feed two to four adults, or two adults and two to three children. It includes a large house salad to start, a choice of one whole pan-roasted organic chicken with fresh rosemary and pan gravy, or a pound of Merlot-barbecue braised boneless beef short ribs with pinot noir sauce, along with three side dishes — honey-glazed organic local carrots, local organic sautéed string beans with garlic, shallots, and fennel, and roasted garlic whipped potatoes. 

Autumn at Fresno

    Fresno in East Hampton has a new autumn menu, with items available during dinner hours on Wednesday through Sunday, starting at 5:30 p.m. Highlights include crispy calamari with sriracha-lime aioli, chipotle barbecue grilled center-cut pork chops with grilled peaches and cheddar, bacon, and scallion cornbread, pan-seared Scottish salmon served with cous cous, fennel, zucchini, golden raisins, Medjool dates, and harissa beurre blanc, or roasted local tilefish with bok choy, baby carrots, shiitake mushrooms, and kaffir lime curry with crispy rice noodles.

Learning to Preserve

    A class in making and canning pear-ginger butter, an alternative to traditional apple butter, will be presented by Deborah Lukasik next Thursday at 6:30 p.m. at the Rogers Mansion on Meeting House Lane in Southampton. A batch will be canned during the class, and there will be jars to take home as well as wine and cheese to savor. The cost of the class, which is limited to a dozen students, is $35 for museum members or $45 for nonmembers. Those who wish to register have been asked to call the Rogers Mansion.  

Fall Hours

    At Dave’s Grill in Montauk, fall means that dinner is served on Friday through Sunday only.

    I know very little about food and wine pairing but am an eager student. I appreciate meals moistened with wine chosen by a friend in the know. But I also agree with Richard Olney’s philosophy that “it is a mistake to freeze such a variable and seductive landscape with rigid rules.”

    Without a doubt the wines of different regions of France go with the foods grown, harvested, and caught in that region. An example would be the aged goat cheese crottin de Chavignol paired with Sancerre, or oysters with muscadet. The same is true of Long Island wines. Once you try a Montauk Pearl oyster with a sip of Paumanok’s un-oaked chardonnay, you would agree. Some young Catapano goat cheese with a sauvignon blanc from the the new Kontakosta Winery in Greenport is light and uncomplicated.

    After a recent toot to the North Fork, we stopped by Bell and Anchor for some oyster research. As it was a quiet Sunday, our waiter, Michael, delighted in preparing a flight of oysters, East Coast vs. West Coast, matched with several wines. We had Montauk Pearl, Hama Hama, Olympia, and Belon oysters with Lieb’s pinot blanc, Paumanok chardonnay, Livon pinot grigio, and a Sancerre blend. The Montauk Pearls were our favorite, especially with the un-oaked chardonnay. The Olympias were quite briny but they “played nice” with the Sancerre. The Belons were almost coppery tasting and creamy, excellent with the pinot blanc.

    The fun really began when the chef Sam McCleland stopped by our table to chat. He admitted that he enjoys rosé all year round (my kinda guy!) and had just enjoyed some local blackfish with Channing Daughters rosé. Out from the kitchen came a special of that evening, oysters Rockefeller. This was followed by another order . . . and then another. We chatted about the foods he is looking forward to cooking this fall, duck and venison and all manner of braised meats, porchetta, and so on. He was especially excited about the upcoming scallop season.

    “Thirty seconds! That’s all the cooking they need!” Through the miracle of technology, his partner in Bell and Anchor, David Loewenberg, got wind of our research and sent us a message about his favorite oyster pairings. “I love our great local oysters, Montauk Pearls, Naked Cowboys, and Widow’s Hole with a classic sauvignon blanc. Channing Daughters 2012 Mudd sauvignon blanc has just the right acidity to balance the salinity of these great shellfish. Then again, we love pink with everything!”

    As I said before, I am really not terribly knowledgeable about food and wine pairings. My cooking tends to be more savory or spicy than rich and creamy. I am more inclined to use garlic, fresh herbs, lemon juice, and vinegars than I am cream and butter. Indian, Italian, and Thai foods are my favorites, so I know enough to not present a rich Montrachet with a fiery pad thai. My everyday go-to wines are sauvignon blanc or Sancerre for whites, and a light pinot noir for red. And, like my aforementioned foodie friends, rosé all year round.

    I have long been a firm believer in the quality of Long Island wines. They tend to be on the expensive side, but I attribute this to real estate value. Lately, the more knowledgeable oenophiles and wine experts like Jay McInerney are giving the North and South Fork wines some attention and praise.

    As we come into the cooler fall months, do a little experimentation of your own. Get some local cauliflower and apples and make a puree to go with braised local duck or duck breast glazed with beach plum jelly. Talk to your favorite wine merchant about what to drink with it. Jacques Franey of Domaine Franey, Michael Cinque of Amagansett Wines and Spirits, and Rodney at Wines by Morrell are all happy to help with wine and food pairings. They are well-informed and always respectful of your budget.

    Wine knowledge is useful and research is fun, but the whole raison d’etre of the meal is the company. Whether you’re having a roast Iacono Farm chicken with a simple green salad and Mecox Bay Dairy cheeses or a lobster feast with end of season corn succotash, experiment with local wines, relax, and have fun with your family and friends.

Click for recipes

    Fall brings new options for foodies. Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will offer a weekly dinner and movie special beginning on Sunday. With the purchase of the nightly special entree, patrons will get a ticket to the East Hampton Cinema with their dinners for a combined price of $20.

    The special is available Sunday through Thursday. Featured entrees, for which a vegetarian dish may be substituted, include meatloaf on Sunday, burgers on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, and moules frites on Thursday.

Football Season Fare

    Fall happy hour specials are being offered at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack in honor of football season on Thursday and Friday from 4 to 7 p.m., Saturday and Sunday all day, and Monday from 4 p.m. to closing. The games will be shown on five large-screen TVs at the bar, and free popcorn and peanuts will be served. Along with drink specials, the deals will include chili cheese nachos in $3 and $10 sizes, warm pretzels with mustard for $3, and a dozen wings for $6.

    Navy Beach restaurant in Montauk will also serve a football season bar menu on Sundays through Oct. 6. On the menu are cheese fries, fried chicken wings, jalapeno poppers, nachos, potato skins, burgers, and fried chicken.

Lobster Night

    Wednesday is lobster night at the Bell and Anchor in Noyac beginning this week. Diners may choose among three three-course specials at prices from $35 to $45, with entrees of lobster garganelli, a steamed 1.5-pound lobster, or butter-poached lobster claws with filet mignon.

The Daily Dish

    A new special at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton is called the Daily Dish and is available Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday, and Monday for $21. Sunday will bring pan-roasted chicken, Monday a pasta entree, Wednesday a fish of the day, and Thursday, a Milanese dish of the day.

   In her native Uruguay, Luisa Masliah, who is called Luchi, earned a degree in clinical psychology. But her first business, started with friends right after college, was a gourmet takeout shop called Gula Gula.

    In its literal translation to English, the Spanish term “means more like gluttony,” she explained during a recent interview in East Hampton, but also refers to eating with enjoyment, or “comer con gusto.”

    “It does imply a little bit of an excess,” Ms. Masliah said. That excess spills over joyfully in her enthusiasm for her chosen field — the food business — and her most recent foray, Gula Gula Empanadas.

    With her teenage daughter, Lucia Robinson, and other helpers, Ms. Masliah each week produces thousands of empanadas — small, folded pastries that can be eaten out of hand, stuffed with a variety of tasty fillings such as seasonal leafy greens with manchego cheese, black beans and corn; jalapeno, cilantro, red pepper, and zucchini, or Indian-spiced potatoes and spinach. A chicken version also has a Southwestern spin, with roasted poblanos and tomatillos and chipotle puree, while a bison filling has the “traditional flavors from the Rio de la Plata,” Ms. Masliah said,  with green olives, onions, raisins, and garlic in a crispy olive oil crust. The fish empanadas are filled with a Galician-style mix of albacore tuna, flounder, roasted red pepper, kalamata olives, tomato, parsley, and onion.

    This summer, the empanadas were sold at local farmers markets. They can be purchased at the Sag Harbor Farmers Market on Saturdays this fall ready to eat or packaged and frozen in regular and mini sizes, which have become popular with local caterers who use them for hors d’oeuvres. Customers can also order them by phone, and Ms. Masliah or a helper will deliver.

    As a young child with a stay-at-home mom who was, Ms. Masliah said, “an excellent cook,” she worked alongside her mother to make a midday meal for siblings returning home from school. In Uruguay, she said, there were “all kinds of food,” reflecting the cultural heritage of residents: Russian, Lithuanian, Turkish, Italian.

    But when she arrived in New York City 25 years ago to pursue a master’s degree, she found still more culinary horizons, encountering all kinds of new world cuisines. She signed up for classes in regional cooking and in the business side of the food world, and ended up developing a business with a housemate who was a former Wall Street trader providing healthy lunches to traders on the stock market floor.

    It was the early ’90s, and the interest in eating a low-cholesterol, low-fat, healthy diet was growing. The two would make the lunches at their Brooklyn apartment, and then, Ms. Masliah said, “get on the L train with bags of food,” for delivery. Her experience grew after she became the chef for a classmate who started a heart-healthy catering business.

    Soon, Ms. Masliah began working during the summers at the former Amagansett Fish Company, owned by a friend. With her husband, Wayne Robinson, she took over the business and ran it for several years.

    The couple, she said, reinvented themselves, after selling the business. Putting her psychology and social work degrees to work, she became a bilingual caseworker for East Hampton Town’s Housing and Human Services Departments, and then a mortgage broker. When the mortgage business suffered, she went into insurance.

    But, Ms. Masliah said, “it was the wrong environment. It was all wrong. I kept thinking, ‘food, food, food.’ ” She began making and selling empanadas in her free time, but eventually had to make a choice. Going with her heart, she said she told her husband, “I’m going to jump. So I just want to warn you.”

    Gula Gula Empanadas became her full-time business and passion last spring. “I’m a lot happier,” she said. “It’s been so much fun. And it’s really tough work.”

    “To make it in the food business, it’s really difficult.” But, she said, the tradeoff is the satisfaction — “to make a living doing something I love doing.”

    “I like to deliver food that is great food, tasty, quality, but at prices that are reasonable,” she said.

    In the future, Ms. Masliah hopes to have a retail shop somewhere on the East End, and envisions, perhaps, providing empanadas for school lunches as a healthy, kid-friendly, and fun alternative. Paired with a quick salad or a side dish, she said, empanadas can anchor a complete meal.

    In the meantime, with the outdoor market season winding down, she has plans to market packaged Gula Gula Empanadas to local shops.

    With Labor Day now past, restaurants have begun to adjust their hours for the quieter season. In East Hampton Village, the Blue Parrot is now open Thursday for dinner starting at 5 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner beginning at noon. There are daily happy hour specials.

    Smokin’ Wolf, the barbecue takeout spot on Pantigo Road in East Hampton, has new hours as well. It is open Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

    Fresh restaurant in Bridgehampton is now open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

Pie School

    Leslie Dumont, the baker behind the Proud to be Flaky Pie School, will offer a class on Sunday in Amagansett on making pies with summer fruits and an autumn apple tart. The emphasis will be on perfecting pie dough, and instruction will be given on creating a double-crusted, lattice fruit pie, and a rustic fruit tart. Students will produce and take home their own batch of dough.

    The class is hands-on and limited to four students. It will conclude with a bit of wine and cheese offered along with a taste of the pies. The session will be held at a private residence from 2 to 5 p.m. and costs $75. Those interested can register at proudtobeflaky.com.

Herb Pesto Class

    A session on making different kinds of herb pestos from garden-grown herbs will take place at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton on Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon. Presented by the Peconic Land Trust and Rick Bogusch, the Bridge Gardens manager, it will include picking from the site’s herb and vegetable beds to harvest ingredients, followed by a demonstration and tasting.

    The session is free for members of Bridge Gardens and costs $10 for nonmembers. As space is limited, reservations are required and can be made by calling the Peconic Land Trust office in Southampton.

Football Specials

    Football season has touched down, bringing specials at the bar at Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett on Sunday and Monday nights during the games. All draft beer will be $4, and all items on the bar menu, $5. Indian Wells continues to serve lunch and dinner seven days a week, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Sunday Brunch

    Sunday brunch has returned at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton, with service from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. An a la carte menu is offered, along with specialty brunch cocktails. Sample menu items include Balsam Farm cheese pumpkin pancakes served with fresh cinnamon cream and walnuts, crispy pork belly served with frisee, grilled Tuscan bread, and poached organic eggs, chicken and biscuits, and sweet potato hash served with local Brussels sprouts and fried organic eggs.

    Fall hours at Nick and Toni’s, besides Sunday brunch, include dinner service Wednesday through Monday beginning at 6 p.m.

Fall Prix Fixe

    In Bridgehampton, Almond is offering a new prix fixe nightly from 5 to 7. Diners can choose among three menu items for each of three courses for $29. The choices will change nightly.

Slow Food Potluck

    The Slow Food East End chapter will have its annual meeting and potluck supper on Sunday from 4 to 7 p.m. at the Shelter Island Historical Society’s Havens House barn at 16 South Ferry Road on Shelter Island, and members and nonmembers alike have been invited to attend. The event is free, though attendees have been asked to supply a “slow food” dish to serve six to eight, made from local ingredients, along with a serving utensil and one’s own beverages.

    Those interested have been asked to R.S.V.P. by sending an e-mail to Linda Slezak at [email protected]. Volunteers to help set up and clean up after the event are also being sought.

At Loaves and Fishes

    Marina Marchese, a co-author of “The Honey Connoisseur,” will be at the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop in Bridgehampton for a book signing on Saturday from 1 to 3 p.m.

    Later that day, from 5 to 7 p.m., she will oversee a honey tasting and information session at the Bridgehampton Inn. The cost is $35 per person. Those interested can register at the store or online at loavesandfishescookshop.com.

   W­hy pickle, can, and preserve? The best reason is because of where we live. The bounty of fruits and vegetables available to us makes the effort worthwhile. It is also satisfying and economical. And the little jars of what you have made make swell gifts.

    My personal experience with jams and pickles is extremely limited. Why? Because I am a chicken. The sight of a pressure canner makes me nervous, pectin calculations require math, and there is that little nagging fear of botulism, a rare but deadly food-borne illness most often found in canned meat or fish. I have pickled cornichons, made strawberry jam (froze it), and beach plum chutney, also froze it. Here’s the good news: You really don’t need a pressure canner, a lot of recipes don’t require pectin, and botulism is, in fact, extremely rare.

    What kind of equipment do you need? Plenty of Ball or Mason jars with either two-piece lids or single rubberized lids and a large straight-sided pot with a lid. It should be wide enough to fit six pint jars or four quart jars, and deep enough so you can submerge the sealed jars by at least an inch of water with a few extra inches to keep boiling water from spilling over. You also need a rack for the bottom of the pot to keep jars elevated. You can use a cake rack or even a folded kitchen towel for this. A weight scale, wide mouth funnel, ladle, clean wooden spoon, thermometer, and cheesecloth are also necessary for most projects. Beyond that, food mills, strainers, mandolines, and microplaners are tools that will make the job go faster.

    There is good deal more to know when canning and preserving so I recommend you consult Ball Jar’s Web site or get a good book on the subject, such as “Saving the Season” by Kevin West. The Ball Jar web site is simple and entertaining, a bit like building a car online. You choose your fruit, then determine whether you are making jam or jelly, then pick the pectin of your choice: classic, low or no sugar, or instant. They calculate the recipe for you.

    Here are some basic guidelines to get you started. To prep jars, wash them in hot soapy water. No need to sterilize; the boiling water will pasteurize the sealed jars along with their contents. Jars and lids should be warm when you fill them; keep these in a 200 degree oven until ready. Do not fill jars to the rim, each recipe will tell you how much “head space” is needed. Use a ruler. When sealing, don’t screw on the lid too tight!

    For processing, have your pot of water already hot. When you add the jars, bring pot to a rolling boil and begin your processing countdown from this point on. When done, remove jars and leave on cutting board or kitchen towel overnight. Do not place directly on a cold stone or marble counter. This could crack the jars. The next day, check the seals. Remove the ring and press on center of lid. If it moves, or if the “button” in the center flexes, the seal has failed to set. The product is still safe to eat, but must be refrigerated.  

    Before storing, wipe the jars with a damp cloth, then dry with a towel. Store the jars without their rings in a cool dark place like a basement or cupboard. Jams and pickles will keep for a year. More delicate, low-sugar jams are best eaten within six months. Marmalades and fruits in alcohol will keep several years.

    Here is how my friend and colleague Jane Bimson makes her famous Nana’s Pickles, which you may have seen at Vickie’s Veggies and Stuart’s Seafood . . . if you’re lucky! Sadly, the recipe is a family secret, but she shared the process with us.

    Jane’s grandmother Nana B. always made these in West Brookfield, Mass., with cucumbers from the family garden. Jane started making them as holiday gifts for family and friends. With help from her husband, Steve, she slices the cukes and onions and leaves them overnight in salted ice water. After draining she adds her special pickle juice and lets them stand for a few hours or overnight again. The pickles are then brought to a boil, canned, and placed in a water bath for 10 minutes. They have made 30 cases so far this summer!

    Now here are a few recipes to get you started.

Click for recipes

Here Comes Oktoberfest

    The annual Oktoberfest at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton begins on Saturday with a 3 to 5 p.m. celebration featuring a re-creation of a German beer garden, with outdoor picnic tables and communal dining tables in the dining room. There will be Bavarian music outdoors from 3 to 5, and a live broadcast by WEHM radio, along with German bar snacks such as knockwurst, brat­wurst, and bockwurst. Oktoberfest beer specials will be served in a commemorative pilsner glass for $8, with refills for $4, and an Oktoberfest beer tasting flight will be offered for $10.

    Rowdy’s Oktoberfest will continue through Oct. 6, with daily prix fixe dinner specials for $24 each week, with menus changed periodically. The first, starting Saturday, will include knockwurst, bratwurst, and bockwurst with German potato salad, sauerkraut, and mustard, and a Black Forest trifle for dessert. Starting next Thursday, the special will be Kassler Rippchen, or German smoked pork chops, with braised red cabbage and grilled apples as an entree, and German chocolate cake for dessert.

Montauk Eats

    Out in Montauk, the Gulf Coast Kitchen at the Montauk Yacht Club has introduced Coin Toss Tuesdays, when a successful call of heads or tails could result in a free meal for a party of four or less, excluding alcoholic beverages and the gratuity. On Wednesdays, the restaurant offers 50-percent discounts on bottles of wine ordered along with entrees, and on Fridays and Saturdays, pizza is buy-one, get-one-free from 5 to 7 p.m. During a Monday through Friday happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m., drinks are discounted, and orders of chicken wings are half price.

    Gosman’s has nightly specials for the fall. Sunday, it’s a 11/4-pound lobster served with corn on the cob, fries, and coleslaw for $24, Monday is rib night for $15, and on Wednesday the local fish catch of the day is served with a glass of house wine for $24. Thursday is steak night at Gosman’s, with the chef’s choice of steak with a potato and vegetable for $24, and Fridays feature fried shrimp, fish and chips, or a fisherman’s platter, for $15. The specials are not offered on holidays, and service begins at 5 p.m.

Meatless Mondays

    Mondays are for vegetarians at Almond in Bridgehampton, which is participating in a global initiative called Meatless Mondays, the objective of which is to help reduce meat consumption by 15 percent in order to improve the health of people and the environment. A vegetarian three-course prix fixe is offered for $35. On other nights, Almond offers a $29, three-course prix fixe from 5 to 7 p.m., with choices to be made from the regular menu.

Sunday Brunch

    The Bell and Anchor in Sag Harbor will begin serving Sunday brunch this weekend from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. The menu includes lox with soft scrambled eggs, onions, and hash browns, duck hash with a poached egg, and French toast.

    Dinner service will follow the brunch hours, until 9 p.m. Appetizer menu items include chowder with white fish, clams, potato, bacon, and cream, a frito misto with clam strips, rock shrimp, calamari, capers, and lemon with spicy aioli, crispy Portobello mushrooms with roasted peppers, smoked mozzarella, and lemon-caper butter, and pork belly served with raw local oysters and kimchi. On the entree menu are several lobster dishes and more.

Indian Wells Lineup

    The weekly lineup at the Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett brings a burger night on Monday, with a burger, draft beer, and a half-dozen buffalo wings for $17, steak night on Tuesday, with steak and sides for $25, fajita night on Wednesday, with steak, chicken, or vegetable choices for $19, and prime rib night on Thursday, when $23 will buy prime rib, a soup or salad, baked potato, and vegetables.

East End Chefs

    Dorine Drohan, the chef and owner of Aunt Dorine’s Clam Bar, a mobile food vending truck based in East Hampton, will present the next East End Chefs class at the Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor next Thursday at 6:30 p.m.

    She will prepare a watermelon salad that includes local tomatoes, baked pasta, and cookies for dessert. Admission is $20. As space is limited, reservations have been requested and may be made by calling the church. Wine and water will be offered for purchase during the class.

Focus on Seafood

    Numerous local restaurants will participate this weekend in the brand-new Montauk Seafood Festival. Centered at the Montauk Marine Basin, the festival will include tastings from the eateries’ menus, along with activities such as a snapper derby and arts and crafts. The festival takes place on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m.

    I have now had my little camp at Lazy Point for five years. Five years, long enough for the clams in my secret clam bed to mature and become sustenance. Long enough for me to learn what I need and don’t need to make time spent out there worthwhile, restorative, contemplative.

    When I first took possession of my 9-by-17-foot box, I felt compelled to outfit it with lots of candles, some cool pictures for the walls, enough outfits to suit any occasion that might pop up (really?!), way too many First Aid items, and enough fragrant creams and emollients to stock White’s Pharmacy.

    My thinking while buying food supplies took on a panicky mode: “Whoa, don’t wanna get stuck out there without Milano cookies or shredded Mexican taco cheese!” I don’t even eat that stuff, so why did I feel compelled to stockpile it? It’s not like the I.G.A. is that far away. But once I am settled in, I like knowing that I can go several days without getting back in the car, communicating via technology, knowing what’s going on in the world, and hearing sounds other than the water, birds, and occasional fishermen.

    One thing I have learned: If a woman like me were allowed to stockpile a survivalist bunker, my fellow bunker mates would have super soft skin and be well fed on useless carbohydrates.

    Here is something I find truly remarkable: On one of the most beautiful late August Saturdays, I never saw a single soul at Lazy Point. It is that preserved, special, remote.

    When I first moved in, there was a rooster nearby that felt compelled to crow at all hours of the day or night. One neighbor had a beagle that bayed at the wind, the mosquitoes, parasailors, the tides. Both are gone. It is even quieter now.

    I am better and more confident at cooking with limited equipment and pared down supplies. I have learned that my 12-inch cast iron skillet and one big stock pot can pretty much perform any necessary culinary tasks. I have brazenly added a Dutch oven to my arsenal because, quite often, baking something mid-day for the evening meal means I won’t overheat my tiny wooden box of a shelter. I have learned that I am a useless fisherwoman, but then again, I see plenty of expert fishermen show up for a few hours, cast, chat, and leave empty-handed (empty-hooked?).

    At the beginning, I made a few mistakes. Like discovering I had no can opener when it was time to make a tuna fish sandwich. Or realizing that I had no spatula at the very moment it was time to flip some fragile fluke filets. You try doing that with two butter knives.

    I have been there long enough to get to know the rhythms of my neighbors. One couple shows up at the same time every afternoon for a dip. They walk down from their cottage to swim in front of my shack because it is a somewhat protected area, across from Hick’s Island, with a Lilliputian sandy beach. I am always at the ready in my bathing suit when they arrive, although I pretend I just happened to be taking a dip at the same time. Sometimes it is nice to have company.

    A few days ago, a group of men pulled up in several trucks and a Jeep. One of them was in a wheelchair. They pulled the Jeep up as close to the water as they could, assisted him out, and set him up in a chair on the sand with his fishing rod. Much jollity ensued. Guffaws, shouts, lager! This sight was as beautiful as the morning’s egrets tiptoeing and poking along the shore. No fish were caught, but it was easy to tell it was a fine time for these friends.

    There is a land art installation on a remote plateau in New Mexico called “The Lightning Field.” It is a series of tall steel poles arranged in a 1-mile-by-1-kilometer rectangle. The artist Walter De Maria intended for the installation to be viewed over a 24-hour period. As the sun rises, pauses overhead at midday, and then sets, the steel poles turn pink, virtually disappear, then reappear looking completely different. David Ulin, writing about “The Lightning Field” for New Yorker magazine, described it as a “narrative which unfolds not as a fixed encounter but rather as something that gets inside us in a more sequential way.” This is how I have come to feel about Lazy Point. From the sunrise over the harbor to sunset over the bay, it just gets inside you.

    I have also taken to heart Carl Safina’s words from his book “The View From Lazy Point.” He describes venturing out “looking for nothing in particular, a strategy that has fueled many a discovery.”

    These past five years at Lazy Point have had a profound effect on me. My silly supplies at the beginning have been whittled down to almost nothing. My cooking supplies, equipment, and ingredients, however, have actually grown, but in a streamlined, efficient way. Gone are the creams and emollients and outfit for that possible invitation to . . . what? One book at a time is enough for late night entertainment. One CD, Buena Vista Social Club, plays over and over in my boombox. Yeah, you heard me, boombox! I have even run out of mosquito repellant. The less I have, the more I realize how little I need.

    One thing I have learned is that using pre-blended spice mixes saves time, not to mention space in the one small cabinet. Therefore I keep a jar of Montreal steak seasoning (a mixture of herbs, garlic, salt, and pepper), and a jar of Italian seasoning. Fresh citrus fruits last a long time so they are always in the fridge, ready to enhance chicken, Greek potatoes, cocktails, salad dressings.

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    The Lucy’s Whey cheese shop has shut its doors on North Main Street in East Hampton, where it was based for six years, but plans to relocate in East Hampton by late spring. In New York City, where there is a Lucy’s Whey shop at the Chelsea Market, another cheese store, with a cafe, will be opening in a few weeks on the Upper East Side, at Lexington Avenue near 93rd Street.

Fall Changes

    On Three Mile Harbor in East Hampton, the restaurant at East Hampton Point has closed for the season and next door, the Harbor Bistro, is now open Thursdays through Sundays for the next several weeks. Andrra, at Harbor Marina just north of the other eateries, is closed.

    Swallow East at Montauk Harbor will be open year round, and has a Tuesday-to-Friday happy hour from 5 to 6:30 p.m. featuring a 50-percent discount on drinks and all menu items at the bar. On Thursdays, diners can order a bottle of wine with dinner at half price; on Sundays, there is reggae and two-for-one Red Stripe beers along with $3 orders of wings and Bud Lights at the bar during football games, and on Saturdays, Swallow has live music.

Wolffer Awards

    Three wines from the Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack achieved high scores from Wine Spectator recently. They were the 2010 Fatalis Fatum red blend, the 2007 Grapes of Roth merlot, and the 2010 Lambardo merlot.

Oktoberfest Meals

    This week’s $24 German prix fixes at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, in honor of Oktoberfest, will include Kassler Rippchen with braised red cabbage and grilled apples, and German chocolate cake, offered today through Sunday. The special from Monday through Wednesday will be wienerschnitzel with herbed spaetzle and gold beets, also served with German chocolate cake. Next Thursday through Sunday, the special will be sauerbraten with braised red cabbage and turnip potato puree and apple strudel for dessert. Rowdy’s Oktoberfest also features beer specials and tasting flights.

Living Room Happy Hour

    The fall happy hour at the Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton, offered Sunday through Friday from 5 to 6:30 p.m., features half off cocktails, wine, and beer, and half off items from the bar menu, which include fresh local oysters, gravlax toast, and steak tartare.

Seafood Spots

    The Clam Bar on Napeague is open daily through the fall, from 11:30 a.m. to sunset.

    Bostwick’s Chowder House in East Hampton has new fall hours, serving Thursday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Along with its classic menu items, Bostwick’s is now offering an inexpensive Beach Break menu on Monday through Friday afternoons from 3 to 5, which includes homemade seafood chowders and soups, raw bar items, and appetizers such as steamed mussels or clams, baked stuffed clams, calamari, coconut shrimp spring rolls, and smoked crab dip. Bostwick’s also has a happy hour Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m.

Home Canning

    A class on food preservation at home will be presented by Mark Vosburgh at the Bridgehampton Inn on Saturday as part of the lineup offered by the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop. It will take place from 1 to 4 p.m. and costs $165.   

Pan-Seared Swordfsh With Black Olives and Cherry Tomatoes

    This recipe is just a guideline, feel free to play with it.

Serves four.

1 lb. thick-sliced swordfish, belly is good

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup pitted and chopped kalamata olives

1/2 cup each chopped fresh basil and parsley

1 lemon, 1/2 cut into thin rings and seeded, the other half for squeezing juice at end of cooking

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

    Heat a large frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Dry off swordfish, then season with salt and pepper, a good bit.

    Add oil to pan and let it get hot. Add swordfish steak and cook until just done, approximately eight minutes per inch.

    Transfer swordfish to serving platter. Add olives and tomatoes and thin lemon rings to hot pan and swirl around for about a minute. Pour over swordfish. Garnish with chopped herbs and sprinkle with remaining lemon juice.

Thai Style Swordfish Satay

    This recipe is from James Peterson’s “Fish and Shellfish Cookbook.” I like the idea of a Thai swordfish, and we usually just think of pork, beef, or chicken for satays.

    Serves six as a first course.

11/2 lbs. swordfish steak, skin and bone removed, cut into 1-inch cubes

Marinade:

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 Thai chilies, seeded and finely chopped

2 Tbsp. Thai fish sauce

Juice of 1 lime

2 shallots, finely chopped

1 Tbsp. sugar

2 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil

For sauce:

3 Thai chilies, seeded and finely chopped

2 shallots, finely chopped

2 tsp. sugar

Juice of 1 lime

2 Tbsp. fish sauce

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1/4 cup creamy peanut butter

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

    Place swordfish cubes in bowl with all marinade ingredients except oil. Toss thoroughly to distribute the ingredients evenly. Refrigerate covered for two hours, tossing every 30 minutes.

    Whisk together all the sauce ingredients until smooth.

    Drain swordfish, discarding the marinade, and thread the cubes on 12 metal or wooden skewers so you’ll have two skewers per serving. Swordfish cubes should be touching.

    Roll skewers in oil.

    Grill about two inches above a bed of extremely hot coals, turning once, for about two minutes on each side.

    Serve immediately on hot plates. Place a small bowl of sauce next to each plate for dipping. Serve with cucumber salad.