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News for Foodies: 03.22.18

News for Foodies: 03.22.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

For Passover and Easter 

The Art of Eating in Bridgehampton is offering special catering menus for the upcoming religious holidays. The prepared main dishes for Passover include slow-braised brisket with roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables, and a whole grilled, boneless salmon stuffed with leeks, citrus, fennel, and grapes. The Easter main dishes include a boneless rosemary-mint-basil-crusted leg of lamb, and a brown sugar glazed Nueske ham. Orders must be placed 72 hours in advance.

Stuart’s Seafood Market in Amagansett is offering Passover specialties including gefilte fish, kosher noodle kugel, brisket, chopped liver, and matzo ball soup. Advance orders are recommended. 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Lesley O’Brock, a mixed-media artist who will lead a workshop on creating monoprints with a gelatin plate. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website.  

Sauerkraut Workshop

Nadia Ernestus, a health coach who launched the Hamptons Brine brand of artisanal sauerkraut, will hold a cooking demonstration at Provisions in Sag Harbor on Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Advance registration is requested by calling the store.

Seasons by the Sea: National This and That Day

Seasons by the Sea: National This and That Day

A mandala of foods celebrated this month, from the healthy (spinach) to the not so (potato chips).
A mandala of foods celebrated this month, from the healthy (spinach) to the not so (potato chips).
Laura Donnelly
Where did all these seemingly ambiguous and arbitrary “holidays” come from?
By
Laura Donnelly

I’ve been noticing lately, well, actually, for the last couple of years, that almost every day, week, or month is National This or National That Day, usually food-related, and even more frequently, junk-food-related. Potato Chip Day, Frozen Food Month, Peanut Butter Week, Tater Tot Day, and so on. Where did all these seemingly ambiguous and arbitrary “holidays” come from?

First of all, there are only 10 national holidays recognized by the United States, like Christmas and Independence Day. Then there are the government-sanctioned holidays like Mother’s Day and Flag Day; there are 44 of these. Some national days are created by presidential proclamation or a resolution in the House or Senate. In July of 1984, president Ronald Reagan signed a proclamation marking the 15th National Ice Cream Day. He called it a “nutritious and wholesome food.” His favorite flavor was coconut. He also created National Frozen Food Day in 1984 (this is confusing because March is Frozen Food Month). June 25, 1987, was Catfish Day. These proclamations are actually a one-time-only deal, so there hasn’t been a National Ice Cream Day since 1984, but plenty of ice cream shops celebrate annually, nonetheless.

F.Y.I., today is Peanut Lovers Day and Pears Helene day. The month of March includes celebrations of frozen food, pig, popcorn, potato chips, submarines, poultry, tea for two, Melba toast, chocolate covered raisins, pecans, waffles, flour, noodles, crown roast of pork, and many more. The few healthy days are March 26, spinach day, and the 31st, clams on the half shell day.

When you hear on the news or read on social media that it is National Doughnut Day or Guacamole Week, does this put a subliminal bee in your bonnet and make you dash out to the nearest Krispy Kreme or Mexican restaurant? I confess that when I hear that it’s National Chocolate Day — Oct. 28, 2018, mark your calendar! — I might indulge in a molten lava cake.

Obviously, a lot of these are just invented by companies trying to drum up business. For instance, National Drive-Thru Day was made up by Jack in the Box, and National Underwear Day was created by Freshpair, an online underwear company. Martha Stewart, Rachael Ray, and Bon Appetit magazine are known to use these faux holidays to promote their products. 

Who decides these things, who keeps track? And how can I make a date in November for Peconic Bay Scallop Day? Several organizations keep track: National Day Calendar, based in North Dakota, was founded in 2013 and has noted close to 2,000 special days per year. They receive around 18,000 submissions each year. To create a holiday, you submit your idea to a committee and have to pay between $2,300 and $4,000 once the idea is approved unanimously by said committee. Chase’s Calendar of Events has been published annually since 1958 and in 1959 merged with another publication called “Special Days, Weeks, and Months.”

Foodimentary is a food day blog started by John-Bryan Hopkins of Alabama. When he discovered he had only compiled 200 actual food holidays, he started making them up. You can credit him for Tater Tot Day, Feb. 2, 2018, and World Whiskey Day, May 19, 2018, bless his little heart!

It’s a no-brainer that the restaurant industry would keep track of, and seek to capitalize on, food holidays such as National Chocolate Cake Day, Jan. 27, National Pizza Day, Feb. 9, and on and on with margaritas, shrimp, wine, eggs, onion rings, French fries, cheeseburgers, tacos, coffee, nachos, cookies, and lager. Again, I’m seeing a lot of junky foods here.

To some extent, all holidays are made up, including Christmas. Is it so bad that these food holidays make us giggle, give the newspapers and TV shows something silly to highlight? Even The New York Times gave National Meatball Day a few inches. They can bring us together to celebrate certain foods. It’s fun, if a bit out of control. 

Fruits are fairly well represented, as are meat and mollusks, but as I mentioned before, there aren’t a lot of healthy items being feted. Where are the granola, tempeh, and quinoa days? The “make kale palatable” month? Wheat grass, spirulina, flax seed weeks? Maybe they’re just not fun enough, like the California Dried Plum Digestive Month. You can thank former California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger for that gem.

So celebrate today with some peanuts if you like, and if you don’t have the chance, tomorrow is National Artichoke Heart Day, yum! You’ve got the rest of the month to whoop it up with Something on a Stick Day (March 28; think kebabs), poultry (March 19), and sauce (March is National Sauce Month).

Happy National Anything You Want It to Be Day!

Click for recipes

News for Foodies: 03.15.18

News for Foodies: 03.15.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Stefanie Sacks, a culinary nutritionist and the author of “What the Fork are You Eating?”, will hold a series of workshops in the coming weeks at Sang Lee Farms in Peconic. 

On Tuesday from 5:30 to 8 p.m., Ms. Sacks will teach a cooking class that focuses on making one-pot meals such as butternut minestrone, Indian spiced potatoes with lentils, and vegetable paella. On March 27 at 6 p.m., she will lead a group discussion on ways to make healthy food choices. Another cooking class will take place on April 10 at 5:30 p.m., during which Ms. Sacks will teach participants how to create innovative salads. Tickets, which are $125 per person for the cooking classes and $25 for the discussion group, can be purchased on the farm’s website.

 

St. Patrick’s Day Specials

At Rowdy Hall on Saturday, a two-course prix fixe lunch and dinner menu will feature Irish fare such as corned beef and cabbage and shepherd’s pie. The special, which costs $25, will also be available on March 25, in honor of the St. Patrick’s Day festivities in Montauk.

Sammy’s Restaurant and Bar in Montauk reopens today with an Irish prix fixe dinner special for $24.95. The special will be offered through March 25. 

Smokin’ Wolf BBQ in East Hampton will be serving Irish dinners all day Saturday. Featured dishes include homemade corned beef, cabbage, and house-made soda bread.

On Saturday, add one more restaurant into the mix celebrating Celtic pride. The 1770 House will feature corned beef from Oregon, which will be slow-cooked for several hours and served with cabbage, fingerling potatoes, and heirloom carrots with house-made Irish soda bread. 

If you’re cooking at home, a stop by Sam’s Beverage Place in East Hampton may help complete the meal. The shop is offering a 15-percent discount on all zIrish beers from Saturday through March 25. Starting on Tuesday, the first day of spring, all winter-themed beers will be 20 percent off. 

 

March Madness

Throughout the N.C.A.A. basketball tournament, Townline BBQ in Sagaponack will have food and drink specials. Among them, an order of wings for $6, a pork or chicken slider for $3, and $5 pints of beer. The restaurant’s six large TVs will be turned to the games. 

 

Prix Fixe Every Night

Tauk at Trail’s End in Montauk has a daily three-course prix fixe dinner menu for $28.95. Choices from one recent menu included French onion soup, New England clam chowder, house salad or a Caesar salad to start, a second course of either fried calamari, crab cake, baked clams, mussels, zucchini chips or buffalo chicken wings, and, for the main course, shrimp scampi or marinara, chicken Parmesan or Frances, eggplant Parmesan, penne a la vodka, flounder, or grilled pork chop.

 

Wine Class

The next in a series of free wine classes at Park Place Wines and Liquors in East Hampton, on Wednesday from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., will focus on wines from the South of France. Advance registration is required and can be done online or at the store.

 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured speaker at Wednesday's A Night Out With event -- a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni's restaurant in East Hampton -- will be Michele Dragonetti. The photographer will discuss her artistic inspiration and methods of composing photos. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store's website.

Seasons by the Sea: Daylight Craving Time

Seasons by the Sea: Daylight Craving Time

A salad of spinach, romaine, cherry tomatoes, and homemade croutons is a great transitional dish from winter to spring.
A salad of spinach, romaine, cherry tomatoes, and homemade croutons is a great transitional dish from winter to spring.
Laura Donnelly
The promise of warmer and longer days is in the air
By
Laura Donnelly

As I scribble this, snow is flurrying (think winter), a northeaster just passed through (think fall), and the snowdrops and crocuses are up (think spring)!

Daylight saving time begins Sunday, and even Easter is coming early this year.

We may delude ourselves into thinking winter is over and the early nights of hearty stews and creamy soups are done. Of course we would be wrong, but the promise of warmer and longer days is in the air, like a premature spring fever.

What kind of foods do we like to eat this time of year? I am still roasting whole chickens and assembling rich vegetable gratins, but the thought of lightening things up is becoming more appealing.

I found a novel at an airport recently called “Topped Chef” by Lucy Burdette, described on the cover as “a Key West food critic mystery” that includes recipes. Hot dog, I thought, right up my alley! Turning to the back of the book to see just how worthwhile the recipes were, I was a little disheartened to see a recipe for a Provencal-style fish soup that called for granulated garlic and dried basil. I can fix this with fresher ingredients, I thought, and bought the silly book. 

The recipe was delicious after I “MacGyvered” it with loads of fresh basil and garlic and added some Pernod for that fennel-tarragon accent traditional in bouillabaisse. Topped with some toasted baguette slices smeared with a shortcut rouille, it was light as a feather yet warming at the same time.

“Spring fever” is a genuinely scientific phenomenon, just as SAD (seasonal affective disorder) is. It is a physiological response to the increased intensity and duration of sunlight as measured by the brain.

 According to Dr. Michael Terman, director of the Light Therapy Unit at New York/Columbia University Medical Center, spring fever (which affects 50 percent of the population) can cause higher energy levels, decreased sleep, reduced eating (!), and an alleviation of depression.

Of course, some of us just want to eat lighter this time of year to rid ourselves of a bit of hibernation fat.

“Come March, it’s no longer possible to be inspired by root vegetables,” Michael Lata, a chef, told Food and Wine magazine. “You’ve done everything you can.” Actually, this is the time of year that I start to think about creative and different uses for root vegetables, like making celery remoulade out of that knobby celery root. When making pasta dishes like broccoli rabe with orecchiette, I bump up the amount of broccoli and reduce the amount of pasta. In the mood for cheesy enchiladas recently, I made them with chopped onions and chicken in lieu of the massive quantities of Monterey jack cheese, and topped it all with fresh pico de gallo and Greek yogurt instead of sour cream. Semivirtuous.

Another recipe I pulled out recently and made for a few friends is Glazed Chicken Germaine’s, from a now-defunct but once hugely popular Vietnamese restaurant in Washington, D.C. It is chunks of breast meat dusted in cornstarch and quickly fried, then served in a sweet, spicy glaze along with a shredded carrot salad, rice, and tomato slices. Yeah, I know this is not the time of year for tomatoes, but they make the dish pretty.

While moderating the Peconic Land Trust’s Long Island Grown series this past weekend, I asked the panelists, Sean Magnussen of Greenport Oyster Company, Eric Bilka of Pindar Winery, and George Hirsch of George Hirsch Lifestyle cooking show on PBS, what their favorite seasons and food and beverage pairings were. Eric said Peconic Bay scallops with a sparkling wine. Sean said his own oysters with a citrusy I.P.A. from Greenport Brewery. George held out his hands as if holding a pearl and exclaimed, “Spring! When things start to grow. I found six little chives popping out of the ground this morning and I snipped them and brought them inside.” 

We never found out what he used them for, but his spring fever was palpable, and contagious.

So now when I drive by the Milk Pail in Water Mill I think “Meh, I’m done with apples.” It’s time to look forward to the first asparagus, pea tendrils, and rhubarb. Is it too early for these spring treats? Yes, but there are plenty of good reasons to start lightening up our cooking, moving past the stew meats, potatoes with Gruyere, and risottos, and dusting off the Weber grill and keeping our eyes out for the first soft-shell crabs.

Happy early spring

Click for recipes

News for Foodies: 03.08.18

News for Foodies: 03.08.18

By
Jamie Bufalino

Dine and Discuss

Almond in Bridgehampton will hold an Artists and Writers Night on Tuesday at 7 p.m. Taylor Berry, the owner of Harbor Books in Sag Harbor, will be the host of the evening, which features a family style three-course dinner. The cost is $45 per person and includes a glass of wine or craft beer, plus tax but not gratuity. Reservations are required and can be made by calling the restaurant. 

Wine Tasting

The Baker House 1650 in East Hampton will be having a rosé tasting event led by a representative of Domaine Select Wine and Spirits on Saturday at 4 p.m. Six rosés will be sampled and light snacks will be served. The cost is $50 per person, payable in advance by searching “drink pink” on eventbrite.com.

A Moveable Feast

Slow Food East End and the Joshua Levine Memorial Foundation will hold their annual Moveable Feast food-tasting fund-raiser at the Dodds and Eder landscape design showroom in Sag Harbor on March 25 from 4 to 7 p.m. A roster of the East End’s most notable chefs will create dishes for the event, which will feature a keynote address by Sam Kass, a White House chef during the Obama administration. Wine and beer from local vineyards and craft brewers will also be offered, and there will be a silent auction of items donated by farms, fishermen, and other members of the food community. Tickets are $100 per person for Slow Food members and $150 for nonmembers. Proceeds will help support more than 25 local school gardens. Advance purchase online at slowfoodeastend.org has been strongly recommended. 

 

A Meal With Memories

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Darlene Charneco, a mixed-media artist who will lead a memory mapping workshop. Participants will create three-dimensional works of art that depict their memories of a favorite place. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website.

News for Foodies: 03.01.18

News for Foodies: 03.01.18

In another welcome sign of spring, Sam's Beverage Place in East Hampton will begin offering 20-percent discounts on winter-themed beer on March 20, the first day of spring. Irish beers will be on sale for 15 percent off for St. Patrick's Day, from March 17 to March 25.
In another welcome sign of spring, Sam's Beverage Place in East Hampton will begin offering 20-percent discounts on winter-themed beer on March 20, the first day of spring. Irish beers will be on sale for 15 percent off for St. Patrick's Day, from March 17 to March 25.
Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Soup Fest

The annual Empty Bowls soup sampling extravaganza will take place on Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. at the American Legion Hall in Amagansett. More than 30 local chefs and restaurants will participate in this year’s event. Tickets are $15 for adults and $5 for children 13 and under. Kids under 5 get in free. Participants, who are encouraged to take their own bowls, will be allowed an unlimited number of refills. Proceeds will benefit Project Most, the nonprofit that provides after-school programs for students at the Springs School and John M. Marshall Elementary School in East Hampton. 

 

Domestic Wines

Park Place Wines and Liquors in East Hampton will offer the next in its free Discovery Wednesday classes on Wednesday from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. Kevin Tunney, a member of the sales team at David Bowler Wine, a New York City importer and distributor, will introduce participants to some wines from Oregon and Washington. Advance registration is in person at the store, or via its website.

 

Happy Hour 

Townline BBQ in Sagaponack will be offering happy hour specials on Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. Discounted bites include $6 wings and $3 warm pretzels with mustard. Drink specials include fresh lime margaritas for $8.

 

Dine and Discuss

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — is Jane Martin, a multimedia artist, who will talk about the business side of being a professional artist. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, dinner, tax, and tip. Register in advance on the store’s website.

Sagaponacka’s Surprising Spirits

Sagaponacka’s Surprising Spirits

Dean Foster, right, and Matt Beamer’s Sagaponacka vodka is designed to showcase the flavor of East End produce.
Dean Foster, right, and Matt Beamer’s Sagaponacka vodka is designed to showcase the flavor of East End produce.
Jamie Bufalino
A new business venture on Foster Farm in Sagaponack is turning produce into vodka
By
Jamie Bufalino

A tanker truck filled with potato mash was parked outside the Sagg Farm Distillery, a new business venture on Foster Farm in Sagaponack that is turning produce into Sagaponacka Vodka. The truck was rhythmically pumping its contents through a hose leading indoors to what looked like a mad scientist’s lair: a network of pipes, vats, and valves all connected to a computerized control panel. As a steady stream of the mash thumped its way into one of the vats, Dean Foster, the man in charge of the farm, talked about why he decided to throw the potatoes he grows into a brand-new enterprise. 

“I look at the distillery as a vehicle that will get us through the bad times, because the potato industry really has taken a hit due to free trade,” said Mr. Foster, adding that he was also keen to “be part of an industry that has some excitement with it.” 

The initial kick in the pants for Mr. Foster’s brand extension was the 2014 New York Craft Act, which eased the state’s restrictions on the production of craft spirits. As it happened, Mr. Foster already had an alcohol craftsman in his family: Matt Beamer, who is married to Mr. Foster’s cousin. He was a master brewer in Utah’s burgeoning craft beer scene in the 1990s and is now a partner in Sagg Farm Distillery. 

“I’ve been in the alcohol game a long time,” said Mr. Beamer, who is in charge of the hands-on process of creating Sagaponacka vodka, overseeing the mash, the fermentation, and the distillation. He also sets the agenda for which produce Mr. Foster needs to plant and harvest in order to meet vodka-production demands. 

“There are 20 pounds of potatoes in each bottle,” said Mr. Foster, who has had to adapt his usual farming routine to accommodate the new business. “Now I get up in the morning and know that I’m not going to go wrangle with 100 acres. Now I have to be more zoned in on Matt’s needs.”

So far, Mr. Beamer has concocted a potato and a wheat version of Sagaponacka vodka, but he has even more exotic beverages in the works for later this year. “I’m going to do a rhubarb liqueur and a cucumber vodka using fresh cucumbers,” he said. 

The duo are also in the midst of creating a liquor that technically does not even exist. “I was thinking, ‘Lets do something that no one’s ever done and make a potato whiskey,’ ” said Mr. Beamer. “We did, and we tasted it, and we were like, ‘Holy cow, we’re actually on to something here.’ But we can’t call it whiskey because whiskey is made from grain.”  

As they experiment with different spirits, the duo are sticking to one overarching game plan: to source all the ingredients directly from Foster Farm (from “seed to glass” as Mr. Beamer dubbed it) and to showcase the unique taste of the crops that emanate from East End soil. “If you take a potato that’s grown in Sagaponack and compare it to one that’s grown in Idaho, the Idaho one is cardboard and the Sagaponack one has this sweetness and silkiness — that’s what blows my mind,” said Mr. Foster. 

And although vodka is generally thought of as colorless and flavorless, Mr. Beamer has been throttling back a bit on the distillation “to leave a little bit of the produce’s character in the vodka, so you remember it,” he said.

Sagaponacka vodka — which is carried in most East End liquor stores and will soon be infiltrating the New York City market as well — is crafted to be a sipping vodka, and starting this summer, visitors to the distillery will be able to sample the goods on site. A tasting room, built adjacent to the distillery and with a window looking directly onto a mammoth copper Bavarian Holstein still, will give patrons an up-close look at an East End milestone.

“We’re the first distillery in the Hamptons,” said Mr. Foster proudly. “And it’s all coming from this ground right here. Nobody else can say that.”

Seasons by the Sea: The Lowdown on the Cuban Sandwich

Seasons by the Sea: The Lowdown on the Cuban Sandwich

Cuban bread spread with guava paste and cream cheese is joined by some  similarly themed beverages in Key West.
Cuban bread spread with guava paste and cream cheese is joined by some similarly themed beverages in Key West.
Laura Donnelly
Some version of the Cuban sandwich, or mixto, or Cubano, was being made in Cuba hundreds of years ago
By
Laura Donnelly

Several cities in Florida claim to have invented the Cuban sandwich, but it is clear that it originated in Key West. Tampa, specifically Ybor City, a neighborhood of Tampa, inserts Genoa salami into their version, and the city council passed a bill in 2012 claiming the Cuban sandwich as theirs. Passing a bill doesn’t make it a fact, folks.

Some version of the Cuban sandwich, or mixto, or Cubano, was being made in Cuba hundreds of years ago. When cigar makers emigrated to Key West in the 1860s, it became popular as an easy, filling, portable meal. What goes into it? The sandwich traditionally starts with Cuban bread, a very specific, pale, fluffy, nondescript white loaf the size and shape of a large baguette, made with lard. A little bit of yellow mustard is smeared on the bread, some butter is optional. Next comes a little pile of shredded roast pork cooked in mojo, a marinade of sour orange juice, cumin, oregano, garlic, onions, vinegar, and salt. Then a slice or two of sweet ham (nothing too assertive, so as not to overwhelm the other white meat), along with three thin slices of pickle — no more, no less — and a slice of Swiss cheese to complete the sandwich. It is then pressed in a plancha (similar to a panini press but without the grill stripes). It is an odd-sounding mixture but can be oh, so delicious.

On this year’s adventure in Key West, I tried to sample as much Cuban food as I could. Not just Cuban sandwiches, but variations of Cuban coffee (cafecito, a tiny, potent, foamy cup with as much as a tablespoon of sugar added); pastelitos (puff pastry or Cuban bread filled with guava paste and cream cheese), and lots of rice and black beans. Being that my only mode of transpo was the ten-toe turbo — that is, walking — I wasn’t able to try every place on the island, but I tried enough to, one, get fat, and, two, find some awesome spots.

El Siboney has been a Cuban staple in Key West since 1984, named after the Siboney tribe of Cuba. The Taino and Siboney were prehistoric, self-sufficient, fishing, hunting, farming, and building wooden structures peoples. El Siboney has been rated Key West’s best Cuban restaurant every year since 1993. I think they are resting on their laurels. We tried two versions of chicken, the medio pollo a la plancha al ajillo and pechuga de pollo a la plancha, the first being a grilled garlic chicken, the second a grilled chicken breast. The garlic chicken was no more than very dried-out chicken with garlic salt on it. Same for the chicken breast, and no amount of sliced raw onions on top of them could moisten the dry meat. However, the fried plantains were good, as were the rice and beans. The rice was buttery, and the beans full of flavor, with bits of ham, onions, garlic, and other spices.

On to Cuban Coffee Queen, where the motto is “Drink more Cuban coffee and do stupid things faster.” Here, the Cuban sandwich was made with the addition of lettuce, tomato, and onion, considered sacrilege in some establishments, but I’ll take my vegetables where I can get them, especially when I’m already eating piglet squared. This version was very good, but the pork wasn’t tender enough to bite into; it just popped out of the sandwich with each bite. For $8.50, you get the sandwich and your choice of fruit or a bag of plantain chips, plus a DumDum lollipop. 

Next stop, Havana Restaurant, where the sandwich is $13 and served with choice of potato salad, French fries, or wasabi coleslaw. This version was excellent! The pork was tender and flavorful, everything balanced nicely, and the sandwich benefitted from an addition of caramelized onions.

Five Brothers is a well-known but simple sandwich shop where the Cuban mixto sandwich is a mere $6.50, and it is very good, if a bit sparse with the fillings.

Next, it was time to get off the leash and try some Cuban mashups. 

One of the best sandwiches I tried (and most dangerous for digestion) was the burger from Frita’s, supposedly based on 1930s Cuban street food. It is a beef and pork patty (I think the pork part is pure chorizo sausage), seasoned with garlic, onions, a spicy sauce, and fried potato strings, all on a Cuban bun. Frita’s recommended Manchego cheese on it, which was delicious. But as I observed the red-hot oil seeping out of the burger and dripping onto the plate, I said to it, “You’re going to come back later to haunt me, aren’t you?” The awesome Frita burger is $8.95.

In between sampling these not-so-healthy Cuban classics, I fried up some yellowtail snapper, cracked some stone crab claws, steamed some Key West pink shrimp, and blended fresh pineapple with bananas and mangoes for breakfast, and perhaps blended the same later in the day with a splash of dark rum. . . .

For an island that is a mere four miles long by one mile wide, Key West has a staggeringly huge number of restaurants. Estimates range from 454 to 700. I have my favorites: NineOneFive, Firefly, Blue Heaven, Onlywood, La Grignote. And I have those I avoid: Why go to a Hard Rock Cafe, like, ever?

I love this tiny island, the Conch Republic, the Rock. It is quirky and dirty, charming and alarming, sunny and “shady,” with an iguana in the backyard (Señor Verde) and a scorpion in the tub. I tell friends I come here for some sunshine and rum drinks and turquoise water, but really, I come for the people and their food.

Locavore Luminaries to Speak

Locavore Luminaries to Speak

Sharing their insights into our regional food culture
By
Jamie Bufalino

East End farmers, winemakers, micro-brewers, and chefs will convene to share their insights into our regional food culture at the Peconic Land Trust’s fifth annual spring lecture series. Laura Donnelly, The Star’s food columnist, will moderate the talks, which will take place at Bridge Gardens, on Mitchell Lane in Bridgehampton, beginning at 2 p.m. on March 4, a Sunday, and then continuing on intermittent Sunday afternoons through the end of April. Tickets are $30 for each lecture or $100 for the full series.

On March 4, the featured speakers will be Sean Magnusson from the Greenport Oyster Company; Erik Bilka, a winemaker at Premium Wine Group, a Mattituck facility that provides custom wine production, and George Hirsch, a chef based in Sag Harbor and the host of the PBS television show “George Hirsch Lifestyle.”

On March 18, beer and wine will be the focus, with talks by Marcos Ribeiro, the co-owner of the North Fork hops farm Craft Master Hops, and Robin Epperson-McCarthy, the entrepreneur who launched the wine label Saltbird Cellars. Stephen Bogardus, the executive chef at the North Fork Table and Inn, will also be giving a presentation. 

On April 15, Peter Treiber Sr., the owner of the Trieber family farm in Southold, will be the featured speaker, as will Anthony Sannino of the Sannino Bella Vita Vineyards in Peconic. Chef Justin Finney of the Highway Restaurant and Bar in East Hampton is also on the slate.

On April 29, the final day of the series, the featured talks will be by Stephen Skrenta, a Wall Street businessman who moved to Amagansett and started a grass-fed beef company called Acabonac Farms; Melissa Daniels of the Jamesport Farm Brewery, and Stefanie Sacks, a culinary nutritionist and the author of “What the Fork Are You Eating?” 

News for Foodies: 02.22.18

News for Foodies: 02.22.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Beer Banquet

Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett is teaming up with the Montauk Brewing Company to present a five-course, five-beer dinner on Sunday evening beginning at 6. Menu items include short ribs braised in a double India pale ale and veal stock, and pork and beans made with pork belly that has been braised with Arrowhead red ale. The cost of the dinner is $75 per person. Reservations are required.

 

Trivia Night

The Springs Tavern, on Fort Pond Boulevard in Springs, will host a Trivia Night benefit for the East Hampton Little League on Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $40 in advance and $45 at the door. Complimentary small bites and one free beverage are included. Tickets are available from Dave Rutkowski, at 631-681-7086. 

 

White Wines

Park Place Wines and Liquors in East Hampton will offer the next in its free Discovery Wednesday classes on Wednesday from 5:30 to 6:20 p.m. Led by Ted Satinsky of Michael Skurnik Wines, participants will sample and discuss white wines from the northern wine-growing regions of Germany, Austria, and Alsace, France. Advance registration is in person at the store, or via its website.

 

Golden Pairing

The featured artist at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle art studio and store and Nick and Toni’s restaurant, both on North Main Street in East Hampton — will be Sylvia Witzenmann, a painter and goldsmith who will talk about the historical significance of the precious metal and lead participants in a hands-on exercise. The workshop starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75, which includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip.