Arrive at Hydra and you’re immediately welcomed into the arms of a magical amphitheater-type surround of dwellings that rise up from the sea into the hills beyond. Its proximity to Athens makes the island a doable day trip but, to stay, especially living like a local in a home, is another thing entirely.
I had been aware of Hydra’s bohemian culture of the ‘50s and ‘60s, and about Leonard Cohen and Marianne Ihlen’s love story here. Today, a similar carefree vibe continues as artists and writers find inspiration and call Hydra home. A visit to places like the Old Carpet Factory and the Hydra Book Club are meccas for creatives. Several historical museums and monasteries further contribute to the island’s rich culture.
Intellectual sophistication abounds, as does a quiet charm. The noise never gets too loud, as cars are banned. I’ll often walk along the high mountain road to Plakes Beach for a swim, or to my favorite Avlaki, where the turquoise waters are breathtaking. I love sunset swims and cocktails at the Hydronetta bar, or beach hopping by e-bike on the nearby island of Spetses.
Inevitably, you end up at the Hydra port, ideally
at Isalos for a coffee or at the Pirate Bar for an aperitivo. Watching the comings and goings here is somewhat of a legendary pastime, as donkeys saunter by carrying vacationers’ luggage, and the church bells remind you of the time passing.
I’ve met wonderful people from all around the world on Hydra, many of whom I now call friends. The island’s flag hangs outside my bedroom window to remind me it’s never too far away.
