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Village Questions Liquor License for Upscale Eatery at Hedges Inn

Wed, 07/17/2024 - 12:57
The Hedges Inn in July 2024
Durell Godfrey

Sartiano's, the ultra-upscale Italian restaurant owned by a self-described "lifestyle architect," Scott Sartiano, owner of Zero Bond, a private membership club in New York City, is now taking reservations at the Hedges Inn for its new 80-seat summer pop-up. After one night that was open only to American Express Centurion members, an invite-only credit card with spending minimums reputed to be $500,000 annually on the low end, they're now opening it up to the rabble.

"The restaurant is now open to anyone who wants to make a reservation," a representative for Sartiano's at the Hedges Inn said. Still, according to resy.com on Wednesday afternoon, "American Express Centurion members have access to priority reservations at preferred tables." It was not clear how many are open to regular folk.

"They had a soft opening this last weekend," Mayor Jerry Larsen said in a phone call. However, he said Sartiano's also picked up a couple of summonses. First, it filled the outside patio tent with artificial flowers but couldn't guarantee they weren't flammable, a fire violation. (The artificial flowers were removed on Saturday, a day and a half after the violation was issued.) Second, a neighbor called in a complaint about parking lot noise after 10 p.m. 

If that wasn't enough, the village filed a formal complaint with the New York State Liquor Authority, or S.L.A., questioning the status of Sartiano's liquor license. In a letter titled "urgent request to review the Hedges inn liquor license prior to its renewal this month," Mayor Larsen noted "several critical issues that violate the zoning conditions and ordinances of the Village of East Hampton." Among them, a change in management without proper licensing, incorrect hours of operation on the license, and an unauthorized modification of the premises.

"Given these substantial violations, we urge the S.L.A. to dispatch an enforcement official as soon as possible to review these issues and conduct an investigation," he wrote, asking for the agency to halt the renewal of the license.

The S.L.A. did not return a request for comment by press time. The representative for Sartiano's pushed back on the village's claims that the noise complaint was related to the restaurant, saying they were visited by a police officer at 7:30 p.m., and not at 10.

This, after the village passed a law in June limiting the hours of businesses operating in the historic district. They must close by 11 p.m. The owner of the Hedges Inn, John Cumming, sent a letter to neighbors, dated June 17, explaining that the Hedges, at least for the summer, would be under the management of Mr. Sartiano.

"It is very important to note that there will not be a Zero Bond private club," wrote Mr. Cumming. "To ensure alignment with village traditions and current regulations, the operating hours of Bar None and any other food service at the property will conform to local laws, specifically not operating later than 11 p.m." Mr. Cumming pointed out that the contract runs only to September and then he "will evaluate and decide the best path forward."

It looks like a test run for Sartiano's, and while Zero Bond isn't there now, it could be a foot in the door for the private membership club. In a July 2 article in The New York Post, Mr. Sartiano said, "We don't have plans to open a private club in the Hamptons this summer, but you never know what the future holds." 

According to a representative for Sartiano's at the Hedges Inn, "Scott's exclusive focus now and in the future" is on the East Hampton venture. "Alongside John Cumming, Scott is fully committed to Sartiano's and has no current plans to proceed with Zero Bond or any other future ventures. Despite unwarranted visits from police and building officials during the restaurant's initial days, before its official opening to the community, he remains steadfast in delivering the best possible experience."

The representative said that "having left the nightclub industry more than a decade ago, he has no plans to return. Over his 20-plus-year career, which includes opening more than 20 venues globally, Scott has maintained a reputation for transparency and earned the respect from his peers, community boards, and neighbors across all his properties."

He went on, "It's important to reiterate, for the 30th time, that Zero Bond is NOT a nightclub by any definition. On countless occasions, Scott has even extended personal invitations to all local critics to visit Zero Bond and experience it firsthand. However, they have chosen to make assumptions and further all the false statements, labeling it a nightclub without ever seeing or experiencing it for themselves."

Mayor Larsen countered Mr. Cumming's letter to the neighbors with his own, dated July 1. "Following a determination by the zoning board of appeals in 1981, the Hedges Inn is required to close by 10 p.m. They have been abiding by this determination since 2006, when Mr. Ian Cumming purchased the property," he wrote. He provided a number for neighbors to call should they encounter violations.

"John's letter says they're going to comply with the new law, meaning 11 o'clock. That's not correct. They comply to 10 o'clock, as part of the Z.B.A. determination," Mayor Larsen said this week.

Mayor Larsen's letter prompted another, this time from the attorney for the Hedges Inn, Christopher Kelley. Mr. Kelley said the mayor had gotten several details wrong. First, the law was not effective until Nov. 30, since, because of an oversight, it was drafted to "take effect 180-days after it becomes law." Further, he wrote to the mayor, "As an inn that rents rooms, it is serving patrons on a 24/7 basis, as you must know from the significant time you spend there."

The Z.B.A. decision from 1981, he argued, only says meals cannot be served after 10 p.m. "This provision in no way requires a closing of the inn, nor does it prevent the service of snacks, desserts, or drinks past 10 p.m. Nor does it prevent patrons from finishing the consumption of meals served by 10 p.m.," he wrote. Finally, repeating an argument he made during the public hearing process before the law was passed, Mr. Kelley said that village law cannot supersede S.L.A. regulations, which govern establishments that sell alcohol.

Mr. Kelley said if the law was enforced by the village the Hedges Inn would sue not only the village, but individual board members "participating in the actions involving the deprivation of our client's civil rights. Furthermore, the bad faith public spreading of misinformation and falsehoods about the operating capacity of the Hedges Inn in an attempt to diminish its business will be met with a claim for substantial damages, including punitive damages."

Mayor Larsen was undeterred. "We feel we're on very good legal ground with the 10 o'clock shutdown," he said, adding that the village will continue to enforce that time, as part of the 1981 Z.B.A. findings, through the summer.

"In Cumming's letter, he's making it clear he's not adhering to his own Z.B.A. determination," Marcos Baladron, the village administrator, said. "Therefore, we're taking matters directly to the S.L.A."

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