There is a splendid explosion of new gourmet stores out here and I would like to share some thoughts and opinions. Of this you can sure: I shan’t refer to this as “an arms race” as a lackluster New York Times article recently did. Nor will I diss and curse like a former reality TV person does when shooting videos of chicken salad at Round Swamp or expensive anything at Farm and Forage. Seriously, this lady has a mouth like Andrew Dice Clay and the frenetic behavior of a Japanese game show host — that is: manic, frenzied, and bizarre.
The Sagaponack General Store has received the most press by far, and it is well deserved. My own snark-meter was ready to blow when I first heard about a billionaire’s wife moving, restoring, and scouring the country for post office boxes to give this space new life with old patina. It is charming, atmospheric, eclectic, and picturesque. (If I ever say “Instagrammable” please shoot me.)
It seems that its breakfast biscuit egg sandwich is the breakout star, so I tried one the other day. The store is open 7 to 7 daily (thank you!) so I suggest you go early before the Rivians arrive to pick up their W.S.J.s, F.T.s, and N.Y.T.s.
I can’t say for sure (nobody could confirm that day), but I suspect the biscuits are from Biscuit Bum Bakery, makers of big square, rich with buttermilk biscuits, slightly sweet and crumbly. Delicious. The sandwich is big, $13, and in my opinion, could be enough for two people. It has a nice melted, mild cheddar cheese, superior quality ham, and the scrambled egg square within is the fluffiest, silkiest, perfectly seasoned bite you could ask for. No easy accomplishment, so brava and bravo to Sagaponack General Store.
One new spot I got extra twitterpated about is El Farm, a tiny shop next to, and affiliated with, El Verano restaurant in Southampton. El Verano is the chef-owner Julian Medina’s superb high-end Mexican restaurant and El Farm sells a big selection of his sauces, tortillas, and prepared foods like a romanesco cauliflower with cacio e pepe seasonings, birria quesadillas, and elote. I have tried El Farm’s Hot and Sweet Spread, a slightly sweet condiment with cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, ginger, and spices, and I can imagine it on all manner of good things: fish, sandwiches, and grilled vegetables for starters. The roasted tomato salsa is a finely puréed, slightly smoky and spicy sauce that can do all of the above along with topping chicken, enhancing dips, and spreading on roasted potatoes.
Across the street from El Farm is Barryville General, a big airy market that has been open for less than a year. It has a huge selection of condiments, including Dreamy Coffee, sundries, prepared foods, charming glasses from repurposed Wolffer Summer in a Bottle rosé bottles, a whole section of Schaller and Weber meats, smoked and tinned fish, and a “fresh room,” an area dedicated to those who care about the skin and the environment. The co-owner Eric Komoroff refers to Barryville General as “healthy-ish, because we also sell beer, coffee, bacon, and other meats.”
The ne plus ultra to me is Farm and Forage in Southampton and its new outpost in East Hampton. Formerly Hen of the Woods, Farm and Forage is the brilliant creation of Jonathan Bernard, farmer, forager, and “Uni-Bomber,” beloved by chefs in the know, and a modest and charming young man. His chef, Anna Lembo, makes the now-iconic organic chicken fingers coated in gluten-free rice-based panko bread crumbs. She also makes the best Japanese sandos, egg salad or spicy tuna with avocado mayonnaise on milk bread imported from Japan.
Mr. Bernard’s shop specializes in esoteric mushrooms, superlative and rare produce, like pawpaws, yuzu citrus, black currants, oishii strawberries, and the expensive Japanese melon that The New York Times ragged on and the reality show lady yipped about. At Farm and Forage there is a well-curated supply of Japanese ingredients, cinnamon buns from Mackenzie Harrington’s Big Fresh Bakery, Maison Bordier butter, Bonilla a la Vista Patatas Fritas, and Olio Fresco from Marcelli Formaggi, Mr. Bernard’s favorite olive oil. If you want to try those cinnamon buns, get there early, they sell out fast!
Let’s not forget all of the pre-existing and very fine farmers markets and gourmet stores, Loaves and Fishes, Round Swamp Farm, Green Thumb, Amber Waves, Balsam Farms, Serene Green, L&W Market, Milk Pail, and so many more.
Il Buco al Mare restaurant in Amagansett has its own little coffee shop selling its superlative breads, as well as oils, vinegars, and pastas. The Row clothing store across the street even has a curated display of attractive foodstuffs. The gourmet boom is everywhere out here.
Did I feel a little bit “Marie Antoinette goes shopping” on my forays to these new and exciting and expensive establishments? Yeah, a little. But here’s the thing, if you love to cook, as I do, you can cherry-pick in a knowledgeable and even frugal way. Just choose a sauce or dressing or even an idea from one of these places and you are on your way to a new and educational experience about exotic foods from around the world and creative dishes made with local ingredients.
Maybe just treat yourself to the best butter you will ever try, and put it to work for you. Get some fresh tortillas and taste what they can and should really be.
I shop at Costco and I.G.A. I support our local farmers markets every weekend. I frequent the North Fork for 8 Hands Farm’s eggs and chicken and Sang Lee for vegetables. I don’t buy foods on Amazon; I want to look at, ask about, and check the expiration dates of these obscure gourmet items.
Food is love, and that love is all around us. Grab a spoonful!
