East End Eats: Southampton Publick House

Southampton Publick House

Bowden Square, Southampton

283-2800

Lunch noon-4 p.m. every day

Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday

and Saturday

With an atmosphere reminiscent of an old-style pub - warm woods, a scrolled tin ceiling, and individual votives placed in each window after dark - and a menu of fresh, flavorful, microbrewed beers, it's too bad the food at the Southampton Publick House isn't better than it is.

The restaurant's taproom is a great place for groups of friends to hang out, and the dining room attracts families with kids because it's big and has a varied menu, but don't expect fine dining here.

Do go for the beer, though. There are always at least half a dozen brews on tap, several of which are seasonal specials. Last week they were offering an Octoberfest, a Pumpkin Ale, and a Porter. A lover of dark beer, I tried the Porter, which had a strong molasses flavor and wasn't bitter - but neither did it have the richness of a Guinness. Pints are $4 and $4.50, about average for an East End bar.

"Growlers" To Go

Four-ounce samplers are available for anyone who can't decide among Southampton Golden Lager, Montauk Light, Southampton Pale Ale, Southampton Secret Ale, or any of the special brews. And for those who believe, as the Publick House does, that "fresh beer is the best beer," the brewery offers half-gallon "growlers" to take home, at $10 for the first fill-up and $8 for refills.

From the appetizer menu, we ordered popcorn shrimp, one of many $6 choices. The portion was generous, more than enough for the three of us to share, the shrimp were tender, and the breading was Cajun spicy, moderated slightly by dipping in tartar sauce. Marinara would have been a nice foil, too.

Other appetizers include Long Island mussels in beer broth ($9), black ale onion soup ($4), and conch fritters ($8).

Duck A L'Orange

A Caesar salad ($5), with strips of roasted red pepper, was a little bland to my taste, but just fine for a 16-year-old, who devoured it. The Caesar salad also comes with grilled chicken ($9) or shrimp ($12), and there are several other salads as well.

Of the four dinner specials being offered, we chose two: duck a l'orange ($18) and lobster ravioli ($16). And, for the youngest one at our table, ale-battered fish and chips ($14) from the regular menu.

With the duck came a choice of garlic mashed potatoes, french fries, or rice pilaf (the latter was chosen), and a blend of seasoned steamed vegetables. When the plate came out, it looked as though it had sat a tad too long under the heat lamp: the orange glaze was somewhat congealed, and some of the rice had gotten dried up and crunchy. Which would have served the duck's skin, actually - it was a little soggy, though the meat was well cooked.

Fries Disappointed

Six large ravioli came in a wide-brimmed pasta bowl covered with a creamy sauce of roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, and mushrooms. And though the ravioli themselves were on the gummy side, and the flavor of the chopped lobster filling got a little lost, the dish as a whole was tasty and satisfying.

Fish and chips seemed like a sure thing for a young child, and it came out looking authentic, newspaper wrapping and all. But while she loved the thick fillets of what looked and tasted like fresh cod, I found them to be greasy.

And the french fries - oh, my goodness, they were fresh from the freezer! What a disappointment.

Specials Aplenty

Also on the menu are steaks, from a 12-ounce sirloin at $15 to a marinated boneless rib eye at $20 - the highest-priced entree. There are chicken dishes, pork tenderloins, salmon, and a selection of pastas at $13 and $14. Sandwiches range from burgers at $6 to crab cakes at $9. The children's menu has all the usual items, from grilled cheese to chicken fingers, each at $6.

Dinner specials are available most days. Entrees are 15 percent off Monday through Friday from 5 to 7, they're two for one on Tuesday, and three-course dinner specials are $18.95 Thursday and Sunday. Wednesday night is ladies night in the taproom from 9 to 11, and a free drink comes with Sunday brunch.

I recall previous visits to the Publick House, mostly with groups of students from Southampton College, as being fun and festive, focused mainly on the beer (and the conversation). And for that, it's an ideal gathering spot.