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News for Foodies: 11.15.12

News for Foodies: 11.15.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

Highway Diner and Bar

    The Highway Diner and Bar is now open on Montauk Highway in Wainscott. Created by David Kuperschmid and Gunnar Myers — the restaurateur behind the former Napeague Stretch restaurant on Napeague and New York City’s Tenth Street Lounge — the family-friendly eatery is in the space that formerly housed Rugosa. The building has undergone extensive renovations, and now offers a relaxed setting for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, or just drinks. The new restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., with earlier breakfast hours to be added soon.

    Robert Gurvich is the chef. Most recently, he presided over the kitchen at Alison 18 in Manhattan, the latest endeavor by Alison Price Becker, with whom he opened the original Alison on Dominick Street. Mr. Gurvich also served up meals at Ms. Price Becker’s restaurants here.

    The menu includes classic diner favorites such as grilled cheese, Reuben, tuna, B.L.T., and turkey club sandwiches, a fried oyster po’boy, and burgers.

    There is breakfast all day, a variety of salads, soups and a vegetable chili, and starters such as braised beef tacos, crab cakes, and tuna tartare. For drinks there are soda fountain favorites such as ice cream floats and chocolate egg creams, along with smoothies and healthy juices such as a “Green Monster” mix of pineapple, kale, lemon, cucumber, and celery. Entrees include meatloaf, ribeye, grilled salmon, skate, linguine with clams and shrimp, and grilled vegetables with quinoa. A junior menu offers a list of foods popular with kids, for $7.

Extended Season

    Bostwick’s Chowder House remains open Friday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, starting at 11:30. Menu items that can be ordered for takeout or eating at the restaurant include fried and broiled seafood, raw bar items, fish tacos, chowders, steamed lobster, lobster rolls, and a “guppy menu” for kids.

Restaurant Week Take Two

    Long Island Restaurant Week has been extended through Sunday in order to give those who have been conserving gas, or who were hunkered down in advance of or after Hurricane Sandy, a chance to take advantage of the deal.

    More than 80 restaurants across the Island, including the 1770 House in East Hampton, will offer a three-course prix fixe for $24.95 each night of the promotion, except on Saturday, when the offer will only be extended until 7 p.m. A full list of participants is at longislandrestaurantweek.com.

    Steve Haweeli, the president of the Long Island Restaurant and Hospitality Group, announced that on behalf of participating restaurants, a donation will be made to the Interfaith Nutrition Network and the Family Service League, two Long Island organizations that are working to help people affected by the hurricane.  Additionally, Muse in the Harbor in Sag Harbor will donate 10 percent of its proceeds on Wednesday night to the American Red Cross.

Chefs to Appear

    Silvia Lehrer, the author of “Savoring the Hamptons: Discovering the Food and Wine of Long Island’s East End,” will appear at a “Taste of the Holidays” event at the Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack on Sunday from 12:30 to 3 p.m. for a book signing and tasting of a recipe from the book.

    Colin Ambrose, the chef and owner of Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor, will return by popular demand to give a class at the Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor, as part of its East End Chefs series. On Nov. 28 at 6:30 p.m., Mr. Ambrose will demonstrate several ways to prepare Long Island duckling, including a pan-roasted duck with a stone fruit chutney. A dessert incorporating local fruits will conclude the meal. Wine will be served.

    The cost is $30. Space is limited, so reservations in advance have been advised and can be made by calling the church. Proceeds from the programs benefit the community house efforts at the church, through which community groups are provided space.

Thanksgiving Desserts

    Dolce Nirvana, an East Hampton baking business begun earlier this year, has introduced a line of prepared, frozen pies, all ready to pop in the oven and bake. In addition, Dolce Nirvana offers already made fruit pies — pumpkin, apple, apple-pear, and apple-cranberry-nut — pecan pie, and chocolate-bourbon-pecan pie, along with cranberry nut or chocolate-pumpkin bundt cakes, and a chocolate bourbon bombe cake. Also available are the bakery’s specialty, key lime pies, in their traditional incarnation as well as blended with mango or coconut, or as a key lime tequila cake.

    Orders can be placed online at dolcenirvana.com for pickup at the company’s East Hampton location, or the baked goods may be purchased at the Hampton Market Place store in East Hampton or on Saturdays at the Sag Harbor Fair Foods Market, held at the Bay Burger building on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. This weekend, the Dolce Nirvana folks will be one of the featured East End artisans at the Williams-Sonoma store in Bridgehampton, selling all of their wares at the store between noon and 4 p.m.

    Lucy’s Whey in East Hampton is taking orders for locally handmade fruit tarts for Thanksgiving desserts. Varieties include pear, apple, fig, and cranberry. The cost is $28 for a round tart, or $30 for a long tart. Orders placed ahead of time can be picked up anytime on Wednesday or between 9 and 11 a.m. on Thanksgiving.

And Turkey Dinner

    Among the numerous restaurants cooking up a Thanksgiving feast is the Living Room at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton. Serving from 1 to 8 p.m., the cost is $85 for the meal, or $40 for a child-sized portion. Wine pairings can be included for an additional $45. The four courses include a choice among homemade squash ravioli, Peconic Pride oysters on the half shell, seasonal forest mushrooms, or pate, as one of two starting courses, and, as an entree, traditional turkey and fixings or Scottish salmon, grilled Angus hanger steak, or Swedish ham served with a pumpkin chutney.

 

Seasons by the Sea: Memories Are Made Of . . .

Seasons by the Sea: Memories Are Made Of . . .

Who doesn’t love stuffing (or dressing, if cooked outside the turkey)? Our recipe calls for cornbread and chorizo, but there are many options, plain and fancy, for this Thanksgiving classic.
Who doesn’t love stuffing (or dressing, if cooked outside the turkey)? Our recipe calls for cornbread and chorizo, but there are many options, plain and fancy, for this Thanksgiving classic.
Jennifer Landes
The good old days
By
Laura Donnelly

    I have great memories of family Thanksgivings. Of course, in the good old days, the women did all the cooking while the menfolk watched football. Afterward, as we all digested and got a bit slowed down by the big meal, the gents would return to the den to watch yet more football and the women would gingerly wash all the silver and special plates and glasses that only came out for this one day a year.

    Miraculously, I have only cooked one complete Thanksgiving meal in my entire life, and this one was for a less fortunate family living near us in Virginia. When I delivered it, I tried to loiter on their doorstep, smiling, waiting, shuffling my feet. What did I expect from them, a more profuse “Thank you for this Thanksgiving feast?” I even told my husband I wanted to go back the next day to make sure they enjoyed it, make sure my mashed potatoes were savory enough, my pie crust cooked through.

    For the next 16 years, our family always went to the in-laws’ farm in Pennsylvania. My measly contribution would be Susan Stamberg’s famous cranberry relish. Since I have moved to East Hampton year round, I have been cooking in restaurants every Thanksgiving. Therefore, we have accepted any and all invitations for the big meal.

    This year will be slightly different. My son’s friend Angus pronounced recently that the only thing that would get him out East would be to have Thanksgiving dinner with us at our new house in Sag Harbor. Sadly, once again, I will be working on Thanksgiving Day, cranking out pecan and pumpkin pies at the Living Room restaurant. But we will have a lovely Thanksgiving meal later in the day . . . catered.

    I have found that the problem with being a guest at a friend’s house is you have no leftovers. This year, we will have leftovers.

    Let us not forget the meaning of this day. My father, a disabled World War II veteran, always invited soldiers and veterans to our Thanksgiving meal. This year, let’s keep in mind and help those who have suffered more than we have from Hurricane Sandy. Serve one less pie and donate the money to the American Red Cross.

    Okay, I’m stepping off my soapbox now and back into the kitchen. Here are some recipes for some awesome side dishes to go with your turkey.

Click for recipes

 

News for Foodies: 11.22.12

News for Foodies: 11.22.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

New at Rowdy

    At Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, new on the menu at lunchtime is a “roast turkey gobbler,” which is a sandwich of fresh turkey breast on toasted eight-grain bread with stuffing, gravy, and onion-cranberry marmalade. It is served with baby field greens. Also new on the lunch menu is a chicken salad sandwich and a pastrami sandwich. At dinnertime, the Rowdy menu now offers a baked brie appetizer, and, as entrees, local swordfish, salmon, an all-natural pork chop, beef short ribs, coq au vin, and butternut squash lasagna.

Zokkon Opens

    Zokkon, a new sushi restaurant, is opening in East Hampton, in the Montauk Highway building where Bamboo, and most recently, Shiki, used to be. The space has been redone. Toyo, the chef and owner of Suki Zuki in Water Mill, is a partner in the venture.

Amazing FoodBook

    The Edible School Garden Group, a part of the Slow Food East End education committee, has launched a fund-raising campaign on Kickstarter.com to raise money to publish “The Nutritious Delicious FoodBook.” The book contains kid-friendly recipes and links to videos, including cooking videos for adults. It offers healthy meal options for families pressed for time, with dishes that can be prepared by children as young as 10, and includes tips on nutrition and cooking techniques from local chefs as well as recipes collected from among more than 18 Long Island school districts.

    The goal is to distribute 10,000 free copies of the interactive book, in various formats, to young children and their families, in an effort to change the way that people eat.

Topping Rose Brunch

    The Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton, with the celebrity chef Tom Colicchio at the helm and Ty Kotz serving as the chef de cuisine, is now open for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. On the menu are dishes such as the “Bridgehampton Town Fry,” with scrambled organic eggs, fried oysters, and chili dust, a croque monsieur, and mushroom risotto cakes with eggs, spinach, and bacon broth. In addition, a pastry basket can be ordered, served with apple butter, cinnamon butter, and fresh ricotta.

Winter Farm Shares

    The Quail Hill community farm in Amagansett has winter shares available. Vegetables that will be distributed from the farm’s root cellar and greenhouse between now through Feb. 23 include carrots, beets, potatoes, cabbage, ruta­baga, sweet potatoes, squash, garlic, greens, and more. Harvest pickup days will be biweekly, on Fridays and Saturdays. A family share is $360, while a single share is $225. Those interested can send an e-mail to Rharris@PeconicLandTrust. org.

Thanksgiving Options

    Those who want to get out, and stay out, of the kitchen on Thanksgiving may head to Michael’s at Maidstone restaurant in Springs, which will be serving from noon to 9 p.m.

    In Montauk, another option will be the Gulf Coast Kitchen at the Montauk Yacht Club, which will be serving a Thanksgiving Day buffet from 1 to 8 p.m. The price is $29.95 for adults or $16.95 for children ages 6 to 12. Little ones under 6 can eat for free.

Winter Prix Fixe

    Throughout the winter at Red/Bar Brasserie in Southampton, on Sundays through Thursdays excluding holidays or holiday weekends, diners may choose a two-course prix fixe for $29, or three courses for $34. Starter choices will include a soup or salad, braised pork belly, and local yellowfin tuna tartare, the latter two for a $2 supplement. Main courses included are fish of the day, rigatoni with Bolognese sauce, and sauteed calf’s liver.

Dinner and a Movie

    At the Plaza Cafe in Southampton, a $39.50 dinner and a movie deal includes a three-course meal and a ticket to the Southampton Cinema that can be used for any show. Tax and gratuity are extra. The special is offered on Sundays through Fridays, and on Saturday from 5 to 7 p.m. Main course choices include horseradish-crusted local cod, sliced flatiron steak, herb-marinated free-range chicken, and farfalle with fresh Gulf shrimp.

Sag Harbor Baking Company, Tiny Treat Factory

Sag Harbor Baking Company, Tiny Treat Factory

In addition to Thanksgiving pies and its regular goodies, the Sag Harbor Bakery will be offering turkey cookies to celebrate the holiday.
In addition to Thanksgiving pies and its regular goodies, the Sag Harbor Bakery will be offering turkey cookies to celebrate the holiday.
Mimi Yardley
“The real deal”
By
Carrie Ann Salvi

   The tiny Sag Harbor Baking Company on Division Street is about to celebrate its one-year anniversary, and Mimi Yardley and Margaret Wagner, who have known each other since kindergarten in Sag Harbor, couldn’t be happier with their first year. With hands full of orders for their first Thanksgiving, Ms. Yardley said last Thursday that there has been a “great response.”

    Royal iced turkeys and leaf-shaped cookies, which Ms. Yardley described as a “simple, rich and delicious butter cookie,” topped with vanilla or chocolate icing, were popular items for Thanksgiving.

    And naturally there were many orders for pies, too, including apple crumb, pumpkin, apple cranberry, and pecan, one of their most popular. Pumpkin cheesecakes are also available.

    Their baked goods are “the real deal,” Ms. Yardley said, made with no preservatives and real butter.

    After opening their doors for the first time on Dec. 3, 2011, Ms. Yardley said that the mild winter was the perfect way to begin, giving them a chance to develop relationships with the customers who have become regulars.

    The summer, she said, was “just bananas.” Operating as a “two-girl show,” Ms. Yardley said that her mother or Ms. Wagner’s daughter occasionally fills in at the counter when it is very busy. In addition to custom cakes for birthdays and special occasions, “summer was fantastic with weddings.”

    Responding to popular demand, the ladies began baking some gluten-free products, too, although Ms. Yardley said their kitchen is not gluten-free because they bake other products in it. They bake at least one variety of gluten-free muffin per day, as well as gluten-free brownies, macaroons, and cookies. They also make gluten-free cakes by special order, using a flour blend of organic brown rice flour, tapioca, and potato starch.

    Their homemade granola, a simple honey-vanilla flavor, has developed a loyal following — they even ship it to New Jersey. Scones are very popular, too, she said, and the shop’s coffee is a special blend roasted in Brooklyn.

    Both women left Sag Harbor after attending Pierson High School together, Ms. Wagner for San Francisco and Los Angeles, where she became a pastry chef after attending the California Culinary Academy.

    Ms. Yardley became a certified public accountant in New York City. Now, both married, with seven children between them, ages 9 through 16, they are once again residents of Sag Harbor.

    Winter hours for the shop are Thursday through Monday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. During the summer season, they close only on Tuesdays.

News for Foodies: 11.29.12

News for Foodies: 11.29.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

   The Montauk Brewing Company is open every Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. Those who stop in can pick up growlers of the company’s Driftwood Ale, an American-style extra-special bitter beer.

Breakfast at the Diner

    The Highway Diner and Bar, which opened recently and has been drawing a crowd for lunch and dinner, has added breakfast hours. The doors open daily at 8 a.m., and breakfast is served all day. The new eatery is in the building on Montauk Highway in East Hampton most recently occupied by Rugosa.

Fudge Company Contends

    Donna McCue and her company, Fat Ass Fudge, will be among the contenders on an episode of “Shark Tank,” the TV show on which entrepreneurs seek to convince investors to back them, airing on ABC on Tuesday. Ms. McCue, an East Hampton resident, who has been an intuitive or psychic, a stand-up comedienne, and an author, said her company was chosen from a pool of more than 31,000 applicants, and that her appearance on the show will highlight her “effervescent and no-holds-barred attitude.” Fat Ass Fudge makes gluten and lactose-free organic fudge that is sold on the company Web site and at East End farmers markets.

Holidays at the Living Room

    On Saturday, the Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton will begin serving a special Swedish “Christmas table” menu, featuring four courses at lunch or dinner for $36 per person plus tax and gratuity. The menu will include herring three ways as a starter, followed by an assorted cold meat plate, with Swedish Christmas ham, gravlax, and country pate, and, as an entree, roast pork loin with gravy, braised red cabbage and potato puree or codfish with horseradish, potato terrine, winter kale, and brown butter. A trio of desserts will include mini waffles with lingonberry cream, saffron cake with candied hazelnuts, and “Ris a la Malta,” a traditional Swedish holiday dessert.

Holiday Dessert

    Double ginger crackles will be prepared during a free cooking demonstration at the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop in Bridgehampton from noon to 2 p.m. on Saturday. The recipe is featured in this year’s holiday issue of “The Best of Fine Cooking.”

Fireside at Bostwick’s

    Bostwick’s, which features fireside dining, is now open Friday at 4 p.m. for dinner, and serves lunch and dinner on Saturday and Sunday.

 

Food and Wine, All Homegrown

Food and Wine, All Homegrown

David Page and Barbara Shinn discussed their passion for sustainable wine and food in one of their Mattituck tasting rooms on Sunday.
David Page and Barbara Shinn discussed their passion for sustainable wine and food in one of their Mattituck tasting rooms on Sunday.
Carrie Ann Salvi
Shinn Estates’ premier wines, produced on Oregon Road in Mattituck exclusively with solar and wind power, have been acclaimed both locally and by national publications
By
Carrie Ann Salvi

    Sustainable winemaking paired with seasonal food is a way of life for David Page and Barbara Shinn, one that “keeps the community of food and wine intact,” said Mr. Page on Sunday afternoon. Whether it’s breakfast at their Farmhouse Inn, or an organic wine dinner offered about 10 times a year at their Shinn Estate Vineyards, the couple is committed to offering the best of the best when it comes to wine and foodstuffs, grown in their garden or greenhouse or procured from someone they know.

    Shinn Estates’ premier wines, produced on Oregon Road in Mattituck exclusively with solar and wind power, have been acclaimed both locally and by national publications. One of just three wineries in the country to be “third-party certified” (by professional inspectors) for sustainable practices, the vineyard is also one of only two that lists all its ingredients. There are some 30 commonly used ingredients in wine that are not disclosed, Ms. Shinn explained, including preservatives, color extracts, sugar, glycerin, wood chips, nitrates, and even monosodium glutamate (MSG). “Just like a bag of Doritos,” she said.

    Doing “everything possible to shorten the list of ingredients” is part of their mission, said Mr. Page. Successful recent batches contained exactly one ingredient — grapes.

    Soil nutrition is key in reducing additives, Ms. Shinn said. Long Island Sound seawater is used for its trace minerals, as well as compost.

    Wines offered for tasting, purchase, and on the menu in many restaurants include Malbec, merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc, Sauvignon or Pinot blanc, rosé, chardonnay, and a sparkling brut, as well as brandy and grappa.

    After meeting in California, the chef and viticulturist created Home, a restaurant in Greenwich Village, pairing New York State wines with local culinary treasures. The couple operated the restaurant for 15 years and it is still in existence. The farm-to-table restaurant has since given birth to “Recipes from Home,” an award-winning cookbook, as well as the Drovers Tap Room and Home Away from Home, a take-out shop.

    Seeking to reconnect with nature, the couple purchased a 20-acre historic North Fork estate, sold the development rights to the town of Southold, planted vines, and became just the second family to inhabit it since the Tuthills, its original owners in the 1880s. Joining them on the farm is “a dog, a cat, and a bunch of chickens,” not counting the many who visit their Farmhouse Inn annually to enjoy sunset over the vineyard, walk or ride to a nearby beach, or explore the neighboring communities.

    With “no lack of culinary creativity,” Mr. Page said he and Ms. Shinn serve inn guests a breakfast with eggs from their own chickens, home-cured local bacon, and cheese courtesy of a local cow. Wine dinners might include smoked duck leg, leafy greens, potatoes, and carrots from their garden.

    Weekly tours of the vineyard and winery led by Ms. Shinn are popular year round with visitors, who learn about her progressive farming techniques. A popular lecturer on the subject as well, she has spoken at such institutions as the American Museum of Natural History and the Smithsonian.

    The vineyard tour features the custom-designed solar panels and wind turbine, “perfectly implemented,” said Mr. Page, to supply the 50,000 kilowatts of power required yearly. With rebates, tax incentives, and a federal grant, the sustainable power is expected to save $10,000 per year over its 25-year expectancy and pay for itself in five years.

    “Just like the English settlers who started farming on Long Island in 1640 and the Native Americans 10,000 years before that,” Ms. Shinn has a mission to sustain agricultural use of the land for many more generations, working with 14 other vineyards as part of the Long Island Sustainable Winegrowers. The group guides others in returning to traditional conservation methods that avoid soil erosion, runoff, and the overuse of nitrogen fertilizers known to have a negative effect on Long Island’s bodies of water. Techniques include biological control of insects as an alternative to chemicals, which, Ms. Shinn remarked, “kill everything.”

    It’s “almost impossible” to get a room at the Farmhouse Inn in the summer, said Mr. Page, theirs being the only place to stay within a vineyard. Weekends are often booked year-round as well. Whether from New York City, New England, California, or Japan, guests seek peace and quiet away from the highway and just a mile from the beach. The couple has traveled extensively, but, said Mr. Page, there is “nothing like this.”

    As cold weather sets in, guests may choose to read or enjoy wine and cheese in a cozy sitting room heated by a wood-burning stove, while day visitors fill a warm, wood-filled candlelit tasting room within the expanded 125-year-old barn.

    The next wine dinner will take place on Dec. 15, when a maximum of 34 guests will be served from a wood-burning oven in a venerable dining room. Mr. Page said the menu will likely include Long Island duck from Crescent Farms, local fish from the Southold Fish Market, vegetables from the couple’s greenhouse or their winter share at Sang Lee Farms, and maybe even persimmon pudding. A friend has a tree.

News for Foodies 10.18.12

News for Foodies 10.18.12

By
Joanne Pilgrim

    The Plaza Cafe in Southampton will participate in Cancer Awareness Month by donating $5 from every prix fixe dinner served on Wednesdays throughout  October to two local organizations, Lucia’s Angels and the Ellen Hermanson Breast Center.

    A $32, three-course prix fixe is offered Monday to Friday from 5:30 to 6:45 p.m. and includes a selection among starters such as Long Island seafood chowder, organic greens salad, and prosciutto-wrapped shrimp, and entrees including horseradish-crusted local cod served with roast garlic mashed potatoes and crispy leeks with chive oil, sliced flatiron steak with potato-spinach hash and crispy shallots, herb-marinated free-range chicken with wild mushroom polenta and baby vegetables, and farfalle with gulf shrimp, asparagus, peas, sun-dried tomatoes, and prosciutto in lobster sauce. Dessert is included as well.

    The restaurant serves dinner nightly at 5:30, except on Mondays, and Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Film and Food

    At Nick & Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton, a two-course dinner will be served along with a ticket to the East Hampton movies on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday for $35 per person. The menu will include a choice of antipasti followed by a choice of a pasta dish or a wood-oven pizzetta. The “film and food” special is not available during holiday periods, or in combination with other specials.

Nibbles and Drinks

    The Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton has resumed its happy hour, which includes half-off cocktails and bar menu items. The specials are available from 5 to 6:30 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays.

Autumnal Dishes

    A list of autumnal dishes added to the menu at Muse in the Harbor in Sag Harbor includes, as starters, apple salad with smoked Gouda and smoked salmon “bacon” served on a Gruyere cheese bread pudding, beet and sweet potato salad with goat cheese and arugula, lobster pot pie, and fried blowfish served with sweet-potato chips. Entree choices include jumbo shrimp casino, tilapia Wienerschnitzel, “Thanksgiving meatloaf,” mushroom parmesan, and wine-braised boneless short ribs served on pumpkin sage polenta with collard greens.

Daily Specials

    At Pepalejefa, a takeout food shop on Sag Harbor’s Main Street, different fall specials are offered each weekday, except for Wednesdays, when the shop is closed. Among the soups of the day are Tuscan bean and French onion, lentil and sausage, artichoke soup, fish chowder, and black bean soup. Other daily specials include chicken, meat, pasta, and vegetable dishes. A daily “lunch box” boxed special is also available, featuring a choice of entree served with potatoes and a vegetable.

Adieu Till Spring

    The Harbor Bistro in East Hampton has served its last meal until spring, although fans of its cuisine will find Bistro-style offerings on the menu at its sister restaurant, the Harbor Grill, which is open all year. The Harbor Grill is on Three Mile Harbor Road just south of the head of Three Mile Harbor.

Bell & Anchor

    At the Bell & Anchor restaurant on Noyac Road in Sag Harbor, two prix fixe choices are now available all night on Thursdays and Sundays, and on Fridays and Saturdays until 6:30 p.m. A two-course special is $30, and three courses are $35. Both include a choice of appetizers such as brandade with potatoes and garlic, salads, and chowder, followed by fish of the day, steamed mussels with french fries, flatiron steak, or an herb-crusted pork chop served with mascarpone polenta and asparagus. Dessert is also included. The Bell & Anchor also offers raw bar specials such as Montauk Pearl oysters for $1.50 each and local Little Neck clams for $1 each.

Seasons by the Sea: Warm Food, Warm Relations

Seasons by the Sea: Warm Food, Warm Relations

It’s time to break out the Dutch ovens and make a casserole, such as this one with penne, tomato, cream, and five cheeses.
It’s time to break out the Dutch ovens and make a casserole, such as this one with penne, tomato, cream, and five cheeses.
Laura Donnelly
By
Laura Donnelly

    It’s that time of year . . . kind of. One day it’s 70 degrees, next day it’s 42. This puts me in the mood for casseroles. Hearty or light, rich or delicate, it’s a good time to utilize the end-of-season corn and tomatoes and incorporate them into whatever kind of casserole, stew, or chili you like.

    It could be a rich, cheesy penne dish like one from the famous Al Forno restaurant in Providence, R.I., or the light and spicy chicken chili recipe that I wrestled from my good friend Beverly Kazickas.

    If you are going to stew or braise something on top of the stove or bake it in the oven it is essential that you have the right piece of equipment. That would be the Dutch oven, a heavy cast iron vessel coated in enamel that can go from stove to oven to under the broiler to refrigerator. If you are going to assemble a casserole and simply bake it, then a glass Pyrex dish or ovenproof ceramic dish is fine. But Dutch ovens have lids to hold the heat and preserve the moisture of the dish, so that’s another reason you should have one. Plus, they’re better looking than a glass Pyrex dish when you bring them to the table to serve.

    Cooking vessels for casseroles and stews have been around for centuries. In the late 17th century the Dutch were producing these molds with dry sand over cast iron to create a smooth, heatproof surface. In 1704, an Englishman named Abraham Darby traveled to the Netherlands to study their process, then returned home and produced and patented his own version which then made its way to the American colonies. Because the Dutch ovens could be used for anything from boiling to baking to stewing, roasting, and frying, they were a treasured piece of equipment. In fact, they were so treasured and durable they would be passed from generation to generation, as they were in Mary Ball Washington’s (George’s mum) will to her two grandchildren.

    Similar cooking pots existed in other cultures — the bedourie of Australia and potjie of South Africa. In Japan the pot is known as nabemono, “nabe” meaning pot and “mono” meaning things or stuff. Nabe kakomu means “sitting around the pot.” The Japanese believe that sharing nabemono will create warm relations between the diners who eat together from the pot.

    A casserole, from the French word for saucepan, can be anything from a ragout to hotpot, cassoulet, tagine, moussaka, lasagna, shepherd’s pie, gratin, rice timballo, or carbonnade. The general difference between a stew and casserole is a stew is cooked on top of the stove, a casserole baked in the oven.

    For a while casseroles were a popular potluck dish, usually something smothered in canned cream of mushroom soup such as green bean casserole, topped with canned fried onions, and tuna noodle casserole. These dishes remain popular in the Midwest and are called “hotdish.”

    So adopt the Japanese philosophy, make a cozy fall casserole or ragout or chili and create warm relations among family and friends dining together around a shared pot.

Click for Recipes

News for Foodies: 10.25.12

News for Foodies: 10.25.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

    The Hampton Seafood Company, which has a lineup of daily soups and lunch specials, is offering free delivery to businesses in East Hampton Village between 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. from Mondays through Fridays. The shop also has two discount programs. A “loyalty card” allows customers who have their cards punched each time they buy something to claim a 15 percent discount after the 10th purchase.

    Teachers, emergency medical technicians, firefighters, and police are being offered another card that entitles them to a 10 percent discount on every purchase.

Celebrating Halloween

    Two Montauk restaurants will close for the season after holding Halloween parties this weekend. At Swallow East, those who come in costume to a party starting on Saturday at 9 will get their first drink on the house. D.J. Mr. Pockets (James Ryan) will play music, and there will be specials on mixed drinks for $5, shots for $4, and $3 for beer. The winner of a costume contest will receive a $100 gift certificate to the restaurant that can be used next year.

    At the Backyard restaurant at Solé East, a Halloween party will start at 8 p.m. on Saturday and feature free bar food, entertainment, and “witches’ grog.” Admission is free, and the inn will offer specially priced rooms that night.

    Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, which stays open all year, will have its 13th annual “Rowdyween” party on Wednesday — Halloween — from 8 p.m. to midnight. A $30 fee at the door will admit those in costumes only, and include a free drink and passed hors d’oeuvres. Drink specials will include $5 draft beers and $5 well drinks, and there will be a D.J. spinning tunes. A total of $500 in prizes will be awarded for the best costumes. Tickets can be purchased in advance for $25 online at eventbrite. com.

The Hideaway

    Montauk’s hidden-away Mexican spot, the Hideaway, which is at Diamond Cove Marina, is still serving throughout the fall. It is open on Friday night beginning at 5, as well as on Saturday and Sunday for lunch and dinner, beginning at noon.

Specialty Pizzas

    At Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton, the fall brings a menu of wood oven-baked pizzas, offered on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday nights. Choices include a margherita pizza with tomato, basil, and house-made mozzarella, pizza with eggplant, pesto, and arugula, and a “Romano” pizza with tomato, olives, capers, anchovy, and ricotta. Also, a pizza with butternut squash with ricotta and caramelized onions, and one with house-made sausage, fontina cheese, and tomato.

Race Lane

    Race Lane restaurant in East Hampton has a new fall menu. It offers bites at the bar, a nightly prix fixe, and specials on Monday, Thursday, and Sunday nights when pro football games are played, featuring two-for-one bites and cocktail, beer, and wine specials. Race Lane serves nightly except on Tuesday and Wednesday.

News for Foodies: 11.01.12

News for Foodies: 11.01.12

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

      The annual fall Long Island Restaurant Week begins on Sunday. Diners will be offered a three-course prix fixe for $24.95 per person at participating restaurants across Long Island. The special, however, will only be available until 7 p.m. on Saturday. East End eateries that are offering the deal include Almond and Osteria Salina in Bridgehampton, Muse in Harbor in Sag Harbor, Nick & Toni’s, the 1770 House, and the Living Room in East Hampton, Gulf Coast Kitchen in Montauk, and Redbar Brasserie and the Plaza Cafe in Southampton. A full list of all the Nassau and Suffolk restaurants that are participating can be found at longislandrestaurant.com.

Slow Food Events

    Reservations are being taken for two upcoming events sponsored by the local Slow Food chapter.

    Foody’s restaurant in Water Mill will host a harvest dinner and author’s night on Nov. 10, with two seatings, at 6 and 8:30 p.m. The evening will feature Leann Lavin, the author of the newly published “Hamptons and Long Island Homegrown Cookbook,” who will discuss her book, which explores the farm to table movement, and the people who inspired her to write it.

    Bryan Futerman, the chef and owner of Foody’s, will prepare a dinner of duck liver mousse crostini, exotic-spiced Long Island cheese pumpkin soup, Falkowski farm oyster mushrooms, caramelized Peconic Bay scallops, Halsey Farm cauliflower, Long Island duck, rutabaga mash and local Brussels sprouts, and a dessert made with apples from the Milk Pail. Wines from Paumanok Vineyards and Thunder Island organic coffee will be served.

    The five-course dinner will cost $75 per person plus tax and gratuity and benefit Slow Food East End. Other donations will be collected for the Edible School Garden group’s Kickstarter.com campaign to pay for the publication of a book. Slow Food members and their guests, as well as donors, will receive a $10 discount. Reservations are required.

    Slow Food will also sponsor a “healthy families potluck” on Nov. 11 from 4 to 6 p.m. at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton.

    Nadia Ernestus, a Slow Food member who is a health coach specializing in raw food, will be the host of the evening, which will focus on how to incorporate healthy eating habits into everyday meals.

    The potluck is free. Those who attend have been asked to take a healthy dish, and their own beverages. A dessert of “surprise smoothies” will be served to top it off.

New Cupcake Flavor

    The Hamptons Cupcake Lounge has announced a new cupcake flavor just in time for fall. Called Sweet Pot, it is made with organic sweet potato puree and crushed pineapple and topped with cinnamon cream cheese frosting. The cupcakes can be ordered online at hamptonscupcakelounge.com.