Last week, I spent most of my time in Manhattan to address a bunch of odds and ends. Nothing against the Big Apple, but normally I’d rather be relaxing on Rock Water chewing on an apple, catching a few fish, and trapping a lobster or two for supper.
Still, there are many benefits to being in Manhattan during late August. For one, the traffic is significantly reduced. It appears most of those who’ve left Manhattan are idling in their cars on Montauk Highway.
Given the relative scarcity of people and vehicles, I decided that the best-laid plan is no plan. With that in mind, last Thursday morning I impulsively hopped aboard the M15 bus at East 79th Street.
My destination was the lower tip of Manhattan at South Ferry, and the trip was a breeze. The $3 fare is an amazing deal, too. When I turn 65 in December, I’m entitled to the senior discount of $1.50. Getting older sometimes has its benefits.
Along the way, it was nice to see some familiar haunts I used to frequent that are still in existence. Yonah Schimmel’s Knish Bakery still stands on Houston Street. Since 1910, the king of knishes has ruled the block, but now also has a few T-shirts displayed in the front window. A knish cult following? Oy vey.
Next was Russ & Daughters, the iconic smoked fish emporium that thankfully remains, and Katz’s Delicatessen, which had the long lines it’s known for. The slogan “send a salami to your boy in the army” still rings true. If you also watched “When Harry Met Sally” you most certainly recall the order: “I’ll have what she’s having.”
Near the end of the ride, it was also nice to see some of the buildings downtown where I once worked on Water Street, Maiden Lane, Pine Street, Broadway, and Wall Street. Lower Manhattan has so much more character, history, and charm than the rigid east-west, north-south matrix of Midtown.
The old Belgian cobblestone road at the tail end of Fulton Street still leads to the South Street Seaport. The seaport traces its origins back nearly four centuries to early Dutch trading posts and was known as the Street of Ships. It was the commercial hub of the city before its preservation. Today it has a myriad of cafes, restaurants, and tourists galore.
What was missing from the totally revamped seaport was the old outdoor Fulton Fish Market, which sat under the F.D.R. Drive. I used to love walking around the stalls in the early morning before going to my desk, although the off-putting stench in the heat of summer was a bummer. Fish stink really stinks.
Established in 1822, the market was America’s oldest and the world’s second-largest wholesale seafood market. Over the years, it overcame structure collapses, sanitary concerns, and mafia control (want to sleep with the fishes?), before its relocation to Hunts Point in the Bronx in 2005.
The other thing I miss is watching people fish along the East River while grabbing some lunch. Seeing anglers land blackfish at the base of the Brooklyn Bridge was a treat. The same with those casting a line for striped bass in Battery Park with the Statue of Liberty in the background. On many days, the action was quite robust, even if some anglers did not exactly follow fishing regulations.
Before returning back uptown on the bus, I decided to take a round-trip ride on the Staten Island Ferry. Like a typical native New Yorker who stays away from tourist meccas like Times Square, Rockefeller Center, and the Empire State Building, I had never taken the ferry, but I’m glad I finally did.
Following the crowd, I neared a turnstile in the main lobby. I fumbled for my wallet to get my credit card to pay my way, but no payment was required. I was puzzled.
As we passed the Statue of Liberty on the starboard side, a quick internet search informed me that it’s free to ride the ferry, and has been since 1997, when the cost for the 25-minute ride was 50 cents. I wish I’d had more time as I could have stayed aboard all day taking in the sights.
On Friday morning, I climbed aboard another bus, the Hampton Jitney. Every seat was taken. The traffic on the Long Island Expressway was light, but when we reached Southampton, we were at a standstill. It took almost an hour to get from there to Sag Harbor, my final destination. I will return to Manhattan on Saturday again. I look forward to it.
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Fishing tips, observations, and photographs can be sent to [email protected].