I love Bloody Marys but seldom drink them. They seem to be kind of a meal in a glass, thick and spicy with bits and bobs of horseradish, a celery stick, perhaps an olive on a toothpick, like watered down cocktail sauce with booze in it.

There are multitudinous variations on the Bloody Mary cocktail. Don’t even get me started on the current trend of garnishes galore, from the sublime to the ridiculous. Never mind, here we go: I have seen or heard about Bloody Marys being adorned by sliders, Slim Jims, candied bacon, salami, string cheese, all manner of pickled vegetables, shrimp, and my favorite from Gary Cobb: a whole battered and fried soft-shell crab dressed up with olive eyes and perched precariously on top of the glass. More like meal on a glass.

This story required some in-depth research, so a visit to Nick and Toni’s for Sunday brunch was necessary. Here you can get a Bloody Mary Board for $40, which serves up to four people. Quite a bargain. Along with Nick and Toni’s house-infused peppery vodka, you get the usual suspects of olives and lemon and lime wedges. In addition there are pickled vegetables from the restaurant’s own garden: fiddlehead ferns and string beans, along with horseradish, fresh jalapeños, and a variety of Horman’s Best pickles. It is civilized, fun, and doesn’t stray too far from the norm. (When I imagine a warm, crisp slice of candied bacon coagulating in an ice cold drink, sending blobs of piggy fat to the surface, I just get the willies.) For an additional $10 per board, you can upgrade to premium tequila or gin. Woo-hoo!

In researching the history of this cocktail, I came across two somewhat believable stories. Delving deeper, I found a rather alarming one, the history of the Oyster Cocktail. This recipe was published in London in the Hospital Gazette in 1892. This tonic was prescribed for anyone “possessed of suicidal tendencies.” It consisted of six warm oysters swimming in tomato juice.

The Bloody Mary as we know it today may have first been concocted by Fernand Petiot, bartender at the New York Bar (later’s Harry’s) in Paris in the early 1920s. Such luminaries as Ernest Hemingway, Sinclair Lewis, and Humphrey Bogart made it the hangout in later years. Petiot may have named the drink after Queen Mary Tudor, a.k.a. Bloody Mary, due to her fondness for the execution of any and all protestants. Petiot may also have named it after the Bucket of Blood Saloon in Chicago, so named because the bar owners were constantly mopping up messes left from brawls and stabbings.

By 1925, Fernand Petiot was bartending at the Savoy in London, where he was discovered by Mary Duke Biddle, then owner of the St. Regis Hotel in Manhattan. She lured him to New York City when Prohibition ended, and he bartended at the iconic King Cole Bar from 1934 until 1966.

It is believed that the drink became spicier when the Russian Prince Serge Obolensky asked for extra spice and Petiot added some drops of Tabasco sauce.

In 1935, when Vincent Astor took over the hotel, the drink’s name was changed to Red Snapper. Astor found the name Bloody Mary to be too vulgar for his soigné clientele.

The vaudevillian actor George Jessel also claims to have invented and named this cocktail in Palm Beach in 1927. He had been drinking champagne all night with a pal and had a volleyball game scheduled for 9:30 a.m. What to do? They popped into the bar at La Maze, where the bartender showed them a bottle of “vodkee.” George suggested killing the “pungent, rotten potato” flavor with Worcestershire sauce, tomato juice, and lemon. As they were “knocking out the butterflies” with this new recipe, Mary Brown Warburton walked in wearing a white evening gown. George spilled the drink down the front of her dress and that’s how his version of the cocktail name came about.

Canadians like a version called either the Caesar, or Bloody Caesar, made with part clam juice. I must admit, my favorite version of this cocktail is made with Clamato juice.

The variety of white spirits you can add to the spiced tomato juice include aquavit, tequila, vodka, and gin. Some people feel very strongly that the citrus element should always be lemon, not lime. For the life of me, I couldn’t find out how celery salt ever became an ingredient in the recipe, but some theorize that the addition of a celery stick is meant to cleanse the palate between sips of this spicy, salty cocktail.

While researching this subject with the help of Stephen (bartender) and Kirsten (boss lady nonpareil) at Nick and Toni’s, I wanted to try a simple version from the Camargue in southwestern Provence. Into a pitcher of good tomato juice, muddle some sprigs of spearmint and lemon slices, let sit for a few hours before drinking or adding chosen liquor. This was a big hit and we dubbed it the Camargue.

In a 1947 letter to his friend Bernard Peyton, Ernest Hemingway shared his recipe for a Bloody Mary and claims to have introduced it to Hong Kong in 1941. “. . . Believe it did more than any other single factor except perhaps the Japanese Army to precipitate the fall of that Crown Colony,” he bragged. He also offered some wise advice on the mixing and fixing: “keep drinking it yourself to see how it is doing. . . .”

Whether you like your Bloody Mary pure, simple, and classic or turned into a Williamsburg, Brooklyn, mashup of Tater Tots, pig’s knuckles, and artichoke hearts, just remember to mix and drink responsibly.

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Reservations are being taken for a Nov. 18 dinner described as a “culinary ethnobotanical adventure.” The chefs, Jeff Purrazzi from JK Chef Collection, Adam Kelinson from Around the Fire, and other South Fork chefs who will help out, will present six courses: Montauk oysters, wood-fired seed bread with charcuterie and “fall ferments,” Clambake Nation chowder with white pine broth and scallops, and a local whole-roasted pig served with polenta, beans, and squash. Dessert, tea, and coffee will also be served.

The dinner is a benefit for the Project Most after-school program and will include a silent auction. It will take place at Scoville Hall in Amagansett starting at 6:30 p.m. The cost is $75, and reservations can be made at eventbrite.com. 

O’Murphy’s in Montauk

O’Murphy’s restaurant and pub at the Tipperary Inn in Montauk has a $24.95 dinner special Sundays through Thursdays starting at 5 p.m. It includes soup or salad of the day, a selected entree, coffee, and dessert. 

Getting the Goat

Two chefs will collaborate on a goat dinner at Almond in Bridgehampton to be served next Thursday night at 7. Jeremy Blutstein, Almond’s chef de cuisine, and Dane Sayles, a guest chef from Scarpetta Beach restaurant in Montauk, will prepare a meal using the whole animal from Vermont Chevon farm, paired with wines by the Channing Daughters winery of Bridgehampton. 

The founder of Vermont Chevon, Shirley Richardson, will be on hand to discuss the nutritional profile and health benefits of goat, and how she works with Vermont Creamery producers. The cost is $70 per person. Reservations can be made by calling Almond.

At Bridgehampton Inn

Bridgehampton Inn has a constantly evolving menu, with new selections offered every two weeks based on local market ingredients. Brian Szostak, the chef, would be happy to hear from farmers and boutique growers about fresh, available items.

Peconic Bay scallops are back on the menu at the inn, served with purple cauliflower, spinach, and a Meyer lemon beurre blanc. Current small-plate favorites include kung pao cauliflower, baby kale Caesar salad, roast fruit and vegetable bowls, duck confit, and roasted mushroom, caramelized onion, and goat cheese flatbread. 

The restaurant has a prix fixe special for those seated by 6:30 Wednesdays through Sundays and a Kobe beef burger night on Wednesdays, when beer and cider are half price. There is no corkage fee charged on Sunday nights. 

Thanksgiving Options

We are well into November, in case you haven’t noticed, foodies, and that means decision-making time is nigh regarding the Thanksgiving holiday. For those interested in dining out, here are some preliminary postings about what restaurants here will be offering.

The Coast Kitchen at the Montauk Yacht Club will serve a buffet Thanksgiving meal from noon to 6 p.m. The cost is $39.95 per adult and $15.95 for children above age 6; there is no fee for those ages 6 and under. There will be soup and salad stations, a cheese board, and seafood, pasta, and carving stations. The menu, subject to change, at present also includes dishes such as pumpkin crème soup, cranberry nut muffins, local flounder, thyme-roasted quail, roast beef, and, for dessert, s’mores, cookies, ice cream, and an assortment of pies. 

Thanksgiving at Lulu Kitchen and Bar in Sag Harbor will include an a la carte dinner menu served from noon to 9 p.m., as well as a traditional Thanksgiving meal for $38.95, which will include turkey breast and leg, cranberry sauce, sweet potato, Brussels sprouts, and gravy.

At Pierre’s in Bridgehampton, a holiday meal will be served from 11 a.m. till 9 p.m., including a traditional turkey stuffed with organic chicken-and-pork stuffing with chestnuts and Alsatian spice bread. Side dishes will include glazed sweet potatoes, braised Brussels sprouts, and cranberry dressing. Other entrees will be available as well.

The menu for Thanksgiving at the 1770 House in East Hampton will center on a $95 three-course prix fixe offered from 2 to 8 p.m. A two-course option for youngsters 12 and under will cost $40. Both prices exclude beverages, tax, and gratuity. Starters on the menu include spicy Montauk fluke tartare, golden beet and endive salad, cauliflower soup, and carmelized Peconic Bay scallops with leek fondue. For main courses there will be the traditional turkey — in this case an organic, Amish-raised version — as well as Scottish salmon and Berkshire pork tenderloin.

At Babette’s

Babette’s in East Hampton is open daily except for Wednesdays, serving breakfast and lunch until 4 p.m., as well as dinner on Friday and Saturday nights. The restaurant, which focuses on “clean food,” including specials for both herbivores and carnivores, is distributing Local Love cards good for a 15-percent discount. Veggie burgers have been put back on the menu. 

Winter Farm Share

Winter shares in the Peconic Land Trust’s Quail Hill Farm are available.  The winter veggie season for shareholders begins in mid-November and runs through February, and will include a biweekly selection of root vegetables, alliums, eggs, and greenhouse greens. The first pickup day at the Amagansett farm is Nov. 17. They continue every other week on Fridays between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. and on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Pizza for Kids

Also for kids are make-your-own-pizza sessions at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton. Children aged 5 to 12 can work with the pizza chef between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m. on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, for $10 per child. Reservations are required. 

Artists and Writers Night

The next Artists and Writers Night at Almond in Bridgehampton will take place on Tuesday, on what would have been Little Edie Beales’s 100th birthday. Mary Ellen Bartley, an artist whose new body of work is called “Read Grey Gardens,” will be the host and will discuss her work. A three-course family style meal will be served. The cost is $45, plus tax. It includes a glass of local wine or craft beer, and the tip. Reservations are required. 

Meals for Kids

A new “piglets” menu, for children only, is being offered at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack. An $8 children’s meal includes a choice of hamburger, cheeseburger, hot dog, grilled cheese, or fried mac and cheese, with a side of fries or seasonal veggies. 

Dinner and a Movie 

Rowdy Hall has reinstituted its dinner-and-a-movie special. On Sundays through Wednesdays, for $22, a Rowdy burger or turkey burger comes with a Regal Cinema voucher. On Thursdays, in addition to burgers, diners may also choose fish and chips, meatloaf, or mussels. A glass of wine or a dessert may be added for $7 more, or a beer for another $6. Vegetarian options — vegetarian lasagna or vegetarian chili — are available as well. 

Wine at Springs Tavern

The Springs Tavern will offer half-priced bottles of wine with the purchase of a dinner entree on Wednesdays from 4 to 9:30 p.m. Among the entree items on the menu, which are subject to change, are grilled salmon filet, a pan-roasted half chicken, and a panko-crusted chicken cutlet sandwich. 

Cook La Fondita at Home

The specialities at La Fondita Mexican takeout in Amagansett are now available pre-packaged and frozen, to cook at home. Among the menu items that can now be kept on hand are red posole, poblano pepper soup, tortilla soup, fiesta bean and cheese dip, and a variety of tamales. 

Day of the Dead, or Dia de los Muertos, is a celebration that originated with the Aztecs of central Mexico thousands of years ago. Nov. 1 is the Day of the Innocents, or Dia de los Inocentes, or Dia de los Angelitos, Day of the Little Angels, that is, children. Nov. 2 is for celebrating deceased adults. These are not days of mourning the passing of friends and family, they are celebrations of their lives, and the rituals that accompany these holidays are to welcome them back for a day.

Toys and candy are the ofrendas, or offerings, for children. The adults get alcohol and a variety of other foods. Sometimes families build altars in their homes, and sometimes makeshift altars are built at the gravestones of the dead. Occasionally, poems are written and recited, anecdotes are shared, and songs are sung. Strings of paper cutouts are hung to represent the wind and sky.

Some of the traditional foods offered on the day of the dead are a sweet, eggy bread with glazed dough “bones” on top, candied pumpkin infused with cinnamon sticks, brown sugar, and orange zest, ornately decorated sugar skulls (calaveros), tamales, atole, sweetened hibiscus tea, tequila, and mezcal. It is believed that the deceased will receive the “spiritual essence” of the food, taking the nutritional value, but the living celebrants will eat it anyway. Candles, incense, and bright marigolds are also elements of the ofrendas.

When the spirits of the dead return for one day, it is believed they will provide protection, good luck, and wisdom for the living.

Before the Spanish conquest, this holiday was celebrated at the end of harvest season in late August. When the Catholics came around, it became a mash-up, now coinciding with All Saints Day and All Souls Day.

The Day of the Dead is also celebrated in Italy, Spain, South America, and the Philippines, although more somberly. There are special masses, and gravestones and tombs of loved ones are cleaned up. Central and southern Mexico make it a more festive celebration with music, drinks, and parties. Tears are not meant to be shed, for the departed may slip on them on their journey. It is more of a cultural holiday than religious one, a time to recount not how the loved ones died, but how they lived.

There are always worthwhile things to learn from other cultures, and the lessons of Dia de los Muertos are good ones to teach our children. Celebrate your ancestors by playing their favorite song, bring them back to life with an amusing anecdote, and prepare some of their favorite foods.

The following candied pumpkin recipe would probably be great made with Long Island cheese pumpkins. I wouldn’t recommend using your now shriveling jack-o’-lantern from Halloween.

If you can’t find Chimayo peppers for the red chile sauce, you can substitute any other fairly large (about two to four inches dried), fairly hot chile pepper. It is a little labor intensive, but so worthwhile. Also be sure to get good corn tortillas and high-quality Monterey jack cheese for the recipe, it makes a big difference.

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Does the seasonal change have you craving heartier food and drink? At Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, there’s an option all rolled into one. Called the Hail Mary (a version of a Bloody Mary) and served in and on a glass, this meal-in-a-drink starts with a Bloody Mary. The drink is then topped with a piece of Townline’s barbecue brisket, a St. Louis rib, a hush puppy, a pickle, and an olive. It costs $15.

Prix Fixe, Pizza

Reasons to visit Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton this fall: three prix fixe specials to choose from, wood-oven pizzas, and “social hour” at the bar.

The pizzas are available on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays. During social hour, which is 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. on weekdays and on Sundays from 2:30 to 6:30, drink specials are offered along with a special bar menu for noshing. Menu items range from pizza to meat or cheese plates, meatball sliders, pickled garden veggies, bruschetta, and truffled polenta fries. 

The prix fixes start at $30, which includes “simply dinner” — a salad, pasta entree or pizza, and two scoops of gelato or sorbetto. For $35, a “classic” prix fixe includes romaine salad or penne to start followed by roasted chicken as an entree and tartufo for dessert. The chef’s choice prix fixe for $40 features an appetizer, entree, and dessert of the day. The specials are not available during holidays or for takeout. Nick and Toni’s is closed on Tuesdays. 

Dia de los Muertos

La Fondita in Amagansett will celebrate Dia de los Muertos, the Mexican Day of the Dead, with traditional food specials Wednesday through Friday, Nov. 3. The menu will include pork tamales in red salsa with rice and beans, chicken tamales in green sauce with rice and beans, chile and cheese tamales with rice and refried beans, and chiles en nogada, which are poblano peppers filled with cheese and topped with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds — also served with rice and refried beans. Also available will be churros for dessert and champurrado, a thick hot chocolate drink. 

In summertime you can get away with slicing up a watermelon, dropping some berries in a bowl, or stopping at a farm stand for a fruit pie, and voila, dessert is done. But this time of year don’t you want to make a little more effort with a homemade dessert? The following three cakes are so easy and so good, you are going to cut them out and keep them forever. They are fast, fruity, and foolproof!

Let’s begin with one of the most iconic cake recipes ever published by The New York Times: Marion Burros’s plum torte. This recipe was given to her by her friend Lois Levine for their self-published 1960 cookbook “Elegant but Easy.” It was simply called “fruit torte,” because it is very adaptable to the seasons — blueberries and peaches in summer, plums in the fall. It was so popular The Times ran it every September from 1983 to 1989. In 1989 the newspaper was so tired of running it over and over that it printed it with a broken-line border and larger type and exhorted its readers to cut it out and laminate it. Not being able to leave well enough alone, it also later published a New Age Plum Torte that replaced the butter and eggs with bananas and egg substitute. Sounds ghastly. In 1994 there was an apple cranberry version and at one point a whole wheat one. Trust me, Ms. Burros’s original plum torte is the best.

A few months ago my friend Mona begged me to try to get the recipe for the Crow’s Nest’s olive oil cake. I was confident I could get it for her because chefs are usually pretty cool about sharing recipes with each other. 

I contacted the current chef and assured him it was strictly for my friend, not for publication. He said he would not give me the recipe, but said that it has been modified three times and is baked in a skillet. Thanks, pal. 

When it comes to research, I am a like a dog with a bone, so I took the next (which should have been first) logical step: I Googled “Crow’s Nest olive oil cake.” Duh. Lo and behold, the original recipe came from my friend Jeff Schwarz, who had been the chef at Crow’s Nest years ago. He had published it in his excellent blog for The Times’s T Magazine, “A Chef in the Field.” 

I have made this cake at least seven times in the last few months with a few minor changes of my own, and it is one of the easiest, best cakes ever. It literally takes five minutes to throw together.

The third recipe I have fallen in love with is a simple pear cake from “French Country Cooking” by Mimi Thorisson. The only fiddling around I have done with this recipe is experimenting with different varieties of pears. As the cake is mostly fruit, I have found that Bartletts are almost too juicy and watery. My favorite pear is Bosc, those brown-skinned ones that seem to take eons to ripen. Beware, even when they are ripe, they stay firm, so just buy some and let them sit out on the counter for about four or five days. I also serve the cake pre-sliced, sprinkled with additional confectioner’s sugar, and toasted up in the oven.

The first time I made the olive oil cake I found it to be quite oily — the recipe calls for a full cup of olive oil. It also tends to stick to the skillet, even a well-seasoned one, so I bake it in an enameled cast iron pan. I have made it in 12-inch, 10-inch, and 8-inch pans. They are all perfectly fine, as long as you adjust the cooking time. Mr. Schwarz’s original recipe calls for a 10-inch skillet. Be sure to use a very good, fruity olive oil, I like Arlotta and Frantoia brands. To serve, I also like to pre-slice each portion and heat it up so the almond flour edges crisp up and the citrus aromas waft about.

All three of these cakes are good for breakfast, teatime, or a rustic but grand dessert. And they all freeze beautifully. What more could you ask for? Perhaps a dollop of creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream. . . .

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Microgreens Tour, Tasting

Slow Food East End is taking reservations for a Nov. 2 tour and tasting at Good Water Farms in Bridgehampton, which produces microgreens and has just released “The Microgreens Cookbook: A Good Water Farms Odyssey.” Brendan Davison, the farm’s owner, will lead the tasting and tour and provide each visitor with a box of microgreens to take home. Small bites made by Megan Huylo, the chef at East Hampton’s Bhumi Farms, will be served. 

Reservations for the 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. event are limited and can be made at the Slow Food East End website by Oct. 31. The cost is $65.

Fall at Lulu

There are new specials for the fall at Lulu Kitchen and Bar in Sag Harbor. A two-course lunch prix fixe is offered on Mondays and Wednesdays through Saturdays for $26.95. The restaurant is closed for lunch on Tuesdays. A three-course dinner offer is $34.95 Sundays through Wednesdays.

Menu selections, which are subject to change, include, at lunch, a choice of French onion soup, beef tartare, or lentil salad to start, followed by a choice of sandwiches — croque monsieur or madame or tuna nicoise — or an omelette with butternut squash, arugula, and fontina cheese. Dinner entree selections may include pasta, veal osso buco, fall ratatouille, or wood-fired grilled codfish. 

During a daily happy hour from 5 to 6:30 p.m., bites can be ordered off the bar menu — from blistered shisito peppers to wild mushroom and pea shoots served with crispy cabbage, smoked butter, and bread, wood-grilled marinated artichokes, and more. 

Montauk Beer at M.S.G.

The Montauk Brewing Company, founded in 2012 by three young men who grew up in East Hampton, is finding continued success with increased distribution across Long Island and the New York metropolitan area. Most recently, the company announced that its beer will be served at Manhattan’s Madison Square Garden, both on tap and in cans. 

Vaughan Cutillo, a co-founder, thanked supporters in a recent press release, noting that the beer brewers had delivered their first keg by bicycle and a keg trailer just a few years ago. 

For Meatless Mondays

Stefanie Sacks, a “culinary nutritionist,” will present a series of workshops with instructions for “meatless Mondays” beginning next week at a private residence in Bridgehampton. The 5:30 to 8 p.m. sessions, suitable for adults as well as children ages 10 and up, will begin with a brief discussion followed by hands-on cooking instruction. Five different plant-based recipes will be prepared, and the sessions will end with a family-style meal. 

Each class costs $100. Those interested can register on Ms. Sacks’s website, reboot-food.com. 

Pork and Bourbon

Tonight’s the night for a dinner at Almond in Bridgehampton featuring spirits from Widow Jane, a Brooklyn distillery, and pork from a pig raised at Root ’n’ Roost Farm in Livingston Manor, N.Y. Four courses served family style will be paired with a Widow Jane bourbon or rye. The tentative menu includes head soup, a mixed grill, ham and grits with spicy pickles, and a caramel-apple dessert with bacon. The cost is $70.

Bourbon and Pork

Dishes made with pork from a heritage-breed pig raised at the Root ’n’ Roost Farm upstate, paired with New York-made bourbon and rye from Widow Jane, will be the centerpiece of a meal at Almond in Bridgehampton next Thursday. Reservations are being taken for the $70 dinner, which will begin at 7 p.m.

Champagne Weekend

Champagne Philippe Gonet will be served at a guided tasting during a “champagne weekend” at the Baker House 1650 in East Hampton on Oct. 21 and 22. Chantal Gonet, the brand’s winemaker, will host a seminar and tasting on Oct. 21 at 5 p.m. A cocktail party will follow from 6 to 8 featuring more French champagne served with hors d’oeuvres in the Baker House gardens and living room. Tickets are $50 per person. On Oct. 22 beginning at 11 a.m., there will be a champagne brunch, also $50 and attended by the winemaker.

Tickets can be reserved by calling the Baker House or purchased on the eventbrite website.

Tacos at Indian Wells

Getting through the first workdays of the week might become easier with a Tuesday night visit to Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett, which is hosting Taco Tuesdays. Diners can choose among three different tacos, served with chips and salsa to start, topped with radish, cilantro, and queso fresco, and accompanied by rice and beans. The choices of fillings, subject to change, could include steak, spicy pulled chicken, or seared yellowfin tuna. 

Fall at Coast Kitchen

Coast Kitchen restaurant at the Montauk Yacht Club has a $29.95 (plus tax and tip) three-course prix fixe special for fall, served daily from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Among the possible menu selections are a first course of pumpkin bisque, spicy tamarind chicken wings, or salads, followed by a choice of bourbon-glazed chicken, grilled branzino, pasta with seasonal veggies, or grilled skirt steak. Dessert is included as well. 

The restaurant is also offering bar bites for $10 during a daily 4 to 7 p.m. happy hour, when beers are $3, glasses of wine $8, and house specialty drinks $10. 

Wine Wednesdays

Speaking of wine — the main topic at Wainscott Main, where the proprietor, Chimene Visser Macnaughton, puts her sommelier skills to good use — Wine Wednesdays have started up again. The series of wine tasting and educational events continues weekly at 5:30 p.m. with different expert speakers and topics. Next week, Sag Harbor’s “sake sensei,” Jesse Matsuoka, a partner and general manager at Sen in that village, will lead the session. 

Admission for each weekly class is $10, and those interested have been asked to call the store or send an email to [email protected] to sign up. The sessions will run through mid-December. 

The weather may still be disconcertingly balmy, but the farm stands and supermarkets and nurseries are all letting us know it’s fall! Hank’s Pumpkintown is up and running and busy as ever. The folks at John’s Drive-In in Montauk are cranking out their delicious pumpkin ice cream. There are pumpkin lattes, pumpkin doughnuts, pumpkin ales. There are caramel apple kits at King Kullen and corn mazes everywhere. I kid you not, I spied Pepperidge Farm Pumpkin Swirl bread (limited time only!) at the Sag Harbor I.G.A. The Pepperidge Farm website exhorts you to “Wake up to swirls and swirls of yummy morning magic!” Goodness gracious, almost gave me flashbacks to 1969.

At the Montauk Fall Festival last weekend I bought some pumpkin raviolis. I chatted with the amiable fellow selling them. “What do you suggest, browned butter with fresh sage to top the raviolis?” “I’ll let you in on a little secret,” he confided. “Try them with cinnamon and whipped cream for dessert. I’m telling you, you can’t go wrong.” With this information weighing heavily upon me, I went in search of another Montauk Brewing Company Pumptauk pumpkin-yam beer.

If you’re going to cook with pumpkin, you should know that our very own Long Island cheese pumpkin is the best. These are the pale, creamy-orange colored, somewhat squat pumpkins you’ll see everywhere. But what about all the other winter squashes, pumpkins, and gourds you see in abundance at farm stands? There are over 100 “genera” in the cucurbiteae family, and more than 700 species.

Acorn squash is a variety you will see all year round. They are relatively small (12 ounces to two pounds) and dark green with deep ribs and blond-orange speckles and stripes. They are thick-skinned with somewhat stringy flesh and are good for roasting, baking (stuffed or not), steaming, mashing, and sautéing.

The blue Hokkaido pumpkin is a beauty, with gray-blue skin and bright orange flesh. This is a tasty one, sweet and nutty, good for baking and stuffing or just on its own, roasted with butter, salt, and pepper.

Butternut squash is the sweetest of winter squashes and has passed the acorn in popularity (probably because you can now get it peeled and cubed at the grocery store). The flesh is firm and holds its shape when roasted. Try it with grated fresh ginger, rosemary, and maple syrup.

 It is also worth noting that many of these squashes and pumpkins can be eaten with the skin on. Just make sure to give them a good scrub before cooking.

Delicata squash are small and oblong, striped with yellow, green, and orange. This one is a bit drier than others. I like it cut into thin wedges and roasted with assertive Middle Eastern spices and topped with a dollop of yogurt.

Hubbard squash are those big fellows you often see sold in halves and quarters, they’re so huge. They are roundish, teardrop-shaped with dark green to pale blue-grey-colored skin and a bit more warty surface than Hokkaido. Their thick skin makes them one of the best for long-term storage (up to five months), and their flesh becomes sweeter as they age. They are very sweet and “pumpkin-y,” making them ideal for baking into cakes and muffins.

Kabocha is another squash you will see everywhere. This one is squat, round, and green with orange splotches. The flesh is sweet and tender and nutty and also keeps its shape when cooked, making it a good choice in soups and stews.

The red Kuri, also called Hokkaido, just to confuse you, is a small bright-red-orange squash similar in shape to a pumpkin but without the ridges. Its size makes it good for stuffing and roasting.

Since we covered the Long Island cheese pumpkin at length last fall, suffice it to say that this is one of the best and most versatile for baking and stuffing. Look up Dorie Greenspan’s recipe for “Pumpkin Stuffed With Everything Good.” It is one of the best recipes I have ever tried, cheesy, rich, and creamy, and quite the showpiece when brought to the table whole.

If you are going to use pumpkin or squash in a pie, I would strongly urge you to roast it first. Boiling just makes it watery, roasting brings out the natural sugars and concentrates the flavor. Ever tasted the difference between boiled beets and roasted beets? Same thing.

So, when you’ve had enough pumpkin lattes and cider donuts and Kabocha kimchi bubblegum, visit your favorite farm stand and try one of the more unusual offerings of the cucurbiteae family. They are inexpensive, healthy, and versatile.

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Job’s Lane Gastro Pub 

(and others . . .)

10 Windmill Lane

Southampton

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Daily from 11:30 a.m.

So you’re in Southampton for the Hamptons International Film Festival, going from the Southampton Cinema to the Southampton Arts Center, and you’re really hungry and want to grab a bit to eat between films. Where to go? Luckily, there are quite a few options, from the simplicity of a healthy smoothie or salad from the Village Gourmet Cheese Shop to the quiet opulence of Sant Ambroeus.

Here are some of your choices, all within blocks of the Southampton Cinema at 43 Hill Street. 

Le Chef Bistro serves simple and delicious French fare in a cozy setting. Besides the a la carte menu, you can enjoy tempting prix fixe items such as country paté, sautéed local flounder, and creme brûlée. 

Paul’s Italian Restaurant offers hearty Italian dishes and is probably the closest to the theater. Closer to the arts center, the Southampton Publick House, located in the old Driver’s Seat, has a wonderful selection of its own fine beers and IPAs, along with good pub grub like short ribs and quesadillas. 

The Village Gourmet Cheese Shop on Main Street has a huge variety of sandwiches, along with super healthy build-your-own salads and smoothies. Down the street, 75 Main has everything from branzino to beef hash, and some excellent sidewalk people watching. Silver’s is another charmer, famous for its B.L.T.s made on Eli’s Tuscan bread, along with nicely balanced soups like Russian borscht and French potato leek.

In the mood for classic German fare? Check out Shippy’s Pumpernickel for sauerbraten, bratwurst, and tender chicken schnitzel. Le Charlot, on Main Street, offers French dishes like salad Nicoise and steak tartare. Sant Ambroeus, also right on Main Street, is famous for its silky gelato and dainty pastries, but also has a formal dining room offering sophisticated Italian items like vitello tonnato, seared octopus salad, and delicate raviolis stuffed with spinach and ricotta. Save room for the Gianduia and an espresso. This hazelnut sponge cake layered with mousse, wafers, and cream will fortify you for the next movie. Or make you want to take a nice nap. 

On a recent visit, we tried Job’s Lane Gastro Pub, formerly the Tuscan House, located very close to the theater. It has a beautiful, long, dark wood bar and open, airy seating in the dining room. There are many, many large flat screen TVs around the space, so if you need to catch up on any sporting event around the world, this is the spot. 

The portions are huge, so be prepared to share or have leftovers. It has a brick pizza oven and the menu leans more towards Italian than gastro pubby fare. We tried the bruschetta, which was absolutely delicious and could have easily fed four people. It was four slices of hot, grilled garlic bread topped with sliced cherry tomatoes with a touch of vinaigrette and shredded basil. It was one of the best versions we’ve ever had, so good that we asked where the bread came from. All we could get out of our waitress was “Brooklyn.”

We also tried the Job’s salad, which was a tasty mountain of mixed greens, slivered sun-dried tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, red onion, and goat cheese, surrounded by warm, grilled quarters of portobello mushrooms. My guest ordered the wagyu beef burger, which was cooked to order, served on a toasted English muffin with excellent hand-cut fries. The service was friendly and leisurely, so if you’re in a hurry, be sure to tell the waitstaff. Prices are $18 to $32 for starters, salads, and specials. Pizzas are $25, paninis, burgers, and pastas are $14 to $34, and sides are $8 to $16.

The weather just might be pleasant enough to enjoy outdoor dining, and quite a few of these restaurants offer that. And hey, if you feel like straying farther afield, take a stroll down North Sea Road to the sweet cottage that is Tate’s Bake Shop. You will find cookies and baked goods worth bringing home from your trip to Southampton, like the addictive cayenne chocolate cookies that aren’t sold anywhere else. 

Enjoy the 25th Hamptons International Film Festival, our beautiful East End, and sample some of our fine local restaurants between flicks. Go Killer Bees!