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News for Foodies: 07.12.18

News for Foodies: 07.12.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Sen Reopens at 25

Sen in Sag Harbor has reopened after having closed on Oct. 1 to undergo a gut renovation. The restaurant, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary season, serves lunch and dinner daily. Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner is served Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 to 11 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. 

 

Oyster C.S.A.

Conscience Point Shellfish, a local nonprofit that grows and harvests oysters, has started a community-supported aquaculture program. The program offers weekly and bi-weekly memberships that run through Nov. 3, and there is an option to schedule six alternating weeks of oyster deliveries. Participants in the latter program can choose to receive either 50 oysters per week (300 oysters over all) for $300 or 100 oysters per week (600 oysters total) for $575. Information on signing up is available on the Conscience Point Shellfish website.

 

Clubhouse Eats

The Clubhouse, the new bowling alley with mini golf, indoor bocce, and arcade games at East Hampton Indoor Tennis on Daniel’s Hole Road, will also boast a restaurant serving what its website describes “American pub” and “bistro-style fare.” It opens today and will serve lunch and dinner starting at 11 a.m. seven days a week. 

Appetizers include the sort of things you might expect at a sports bar — chicken wings and fried calamari — as well as some you might not — a marinated portobello mushroom stack and Thai chicken or shrimp lettuce wraps, for example. The restaurant will serve salads, wraps and sandwiches, burgers, pasta, pizzas, flatbreads, and more substantial entrees like fish and chips, steaks, and pan-roasted Atlantic salmon. Appetizers and shared bites range from $8 to $14, salads from $9 to $12, and sandwiches, wraps, and burgers from $12 to $16. Pizzas are $12 to $16, entrees are $19 to $28, and kids’ dishes are all $10 and come with fries and a drink.  

 

Cafe at the Square

Culaccino at the square in Water Mill has introduced a cafe-style menu. Lunch items include grilled salmon for $21 and an edamame pasta dish for $22. The dinner menu features a wild boar chop for $42 and a grilled Sicilian eggplant entree for $30. Lunch is served daily from noon to 3 p.m. Dinner is from 5 to 11 p.m.

News for Foodies: 07.05.18

News for Foodies: 07.05.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Music at Harbor Bistro

Harbor Bistro in East Hampton will feature live bands and food and drink specials on Sundays from 5 to 8 p.m. The food specials, all priced at $8, include chicken potstickers, chips and guacamole, and oysters with a celery mignonette. 

New in Bridgehampton

The Mercado Mexican Grill in Bridgehampton has changed its name and its culinary focus. It is now the Hudson Blue Crab House. The menu has retained some items from its previous incarnation, including fish and shrimp tacos, but includes new additions such as king crab legs, soft-shelled crabs, lobster rolls, and a variety of oysters. 

Mecox Delivered

Mecox Bay Dairy in Bridgehampton will start a home delivery service tomorrow. It will be available to households from Montauk to Southampton and it will operate through August. Customers will be able to shop online at mecoxdirect.com from the farm’s selection of meats, cheeses, and other products, place an order by noon on Wednesday, and have the items arrive two days later. The delivery fee is $10 with no minimum order requirements. Orders placed after noon on Wednesday will be delivered on Friday of the following week.

East End Eats: Bravo, Il Mulino!

East End Eats: Bravo, Il Mulino!

One of the many seafood offerings at Il Mulino in Wainscott
One of the many seafood offerings at Il Mulino in Wainscott
Laura Donnelly
Big, expensive, efficient, and very good
By
Laura Donnelly

Il Mulino

108 Wainscott Stone Road

Wainscott 

631-658-9122

Dinner nightly

Il Mulino is like the Italian version of the Hillstone Group of restaurants. Big, expensive, efficient, and very good. It has numerous locations in New York City and on Long Island, along with outposts in Orlando (Disney World), Atlanta, San Juan, Las Vegas, Tokyo, and now Wainscott.

This big, beautiful Tudor house on Georgica Pond has seen many restaurant incarnations over the years: Sapore di Mare, Maya’s, Saracen, Georgica, Osteria Salinia. The interior is now creamy whites with wood and tile floors, several dining rooms, and a beautiful enclosed porch overlooking the pond. This room has superbly soundproofed windows. You would never know you are on the highway. There is now a wood-burning oven for pizzas, but this was not yet operational on our visit.

One of the best things about Il Mulino (the Mill) is all the goodies you get upon being seated. First a huge half wheel of Parmesan is brought to the table and chunks are gouged out and placed on your bread plate. Then you are offered a variety of focaccia breads — tomato, olive, and spicy toasted slices on this particular evening. Next comes a little plate of fried zucchini chips doused with garlic, rosemary, and red pepper flakes. After that, there are slices of bruschetta with tomato topping, all of it delicious.

We began our meal with clams oreganata, grilled octopus, fluke carpaccio, Caesar salad, and a half order of porcini-truffle raviolis. The clams were good: six small ones, lightly breaded, with a garlicky broth on the bottom of the plate. The grilled octopus (two tentacles) was tender and served with orange sections and a shaved fennel and frisée salad. 

The fluke carpaccio was not good. It was just a bit too fishy tasting. I never complain or send a dish back when I am reviewing, but on this occasion I felt it was warranted. After my guests tasted it and concurred that it was not fresh, fresh, fresh, the dish was removed . . . but we were still charged for it. 

The Caesar salad was a refined version; tender small hearts of romaine were dressed in a lemony mustardy vinaigrette, not much garlic or anchovy flavor. The half order of porcini truffle ravioli was rich and flavorful and uber-creamy, a big hit.

For main courses we ordered eggplant rolatini, lobster ravioli, and osso bucco. The eggplant rolatini was stuffed with crabmeat and shrimp, covered in a vecchia bettola (creamy tomato sauce), and served with some perfectly sautéed spinach. We all agreed it was excellent. The lobster ravioli was equally rich and creamy, topped with the same sauce. It was almost as good as the eggplant. The osso bucco was superb, as it should be at a whopping $75! The meat was tender, moist, and flavorful, the saffron risotto creamy and cooked just right, and the marrow bone statuesque. 

The service on the night of our visit was excellent, especially considering Il Mulino has only been open for a month. Our waiter, Luka, was charming and knowledgeable. There were also what seemed like at least 10 other people swarming about the table, whisking away empty (and almost empty) plates and glasses, crumbing the tablecloth, replenishing waters and utensils. When Jimmy Fallon bounded onto the porch for his early bird dinner with his wife, I figured the swarm would immediately move in his direction, but our service continued to be very attentive. 

The prices at Il Mulino are high. The appetizers, carpaccios, salads, tartares, pizzas, and other antipasti are $14 to $110. The $14 is for olives, the $110 for caviar. Pastas, meat, and fish dishes are $29 to $57, and sides and desserts are $15.

After we finished our entrees and before we ordered dessert, we were offered tiny glasses of fig liqueur. It was sweet and wonderful, like liquid Fig Newtons. All of the desserts are made in house. We tried two and both were good. One was a moist limoncello tiramisu with sabayon, the other an almond-infused ricotta cheesecake. Both were served with a scattering of berries, a generous helping of fresh whipped cream, and, inexplicably, a good bit of Hershey’s chocolate syrup on both plates.

Our dinner was delicious and delightful. It is not clear whether Il Mulino will be seasonal or year round, but this outpost of the empire is a welcome addition to the East End.

News for Foodies: 06.28.18

News for Foodies: 06.28.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Cooking and Culture

Daniel Isengart, a private chef and a cabaret performer, will talk about his new book, “The Art of Gay Cooking,” at BookHampton in East Hampton tomorrow at 5 p.m. Laura Donnelly, The Star’s food columnist, will moderate the discussion. Mr. Isengart’s work, which contains 250 recipes, is a “culinary memoir” that traces the author’s cooking experiences from his grandmother’s kitchen in Germany through his childhood years in Paris and up to his adult life at home in Brooklyn Heights and at work for clients in New York City and the Hamptons.

 

Lounge Debut

A new event space and lounge called the 324 will open today at 44 Three Mile Harbor Road in East Hampton, an address that has seen a long succession of nightclubs and restaurants, most recently Harbor East. In its newly renovated space, the 324 contains three full-service bars, two interior dining and entertainment spaces, two outdoor patios, and can accommodate up to 500 guests. A tour of the facilities for those planning an event will take place from 5:30 to 8 p.m., and afterward the lounge will make its debut. The lounge, which will serve a variety of craft cocktails and frozen drinks, will be open Thursdays through Saturdays starting at 8 p.m.

 

Oyster Special 

The North Sea Tavern is offering a special of five oysters  plus a choice of draft beer, wine, or champagne for $10 every Thursday from noon to 11 p.m.

 

Brunch With Flair

Maison Vivienne in Southampton will hold a brunch featuring a D.J. and a fashion show of jewelry from Soixante Neuf Jewels and clothing from Marina St. Barth and Elaine Kim Studio on Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Almond Cracks Open L&W Market in Bridgehampton

Almond Cracks Open L&W Market in Bridgehampton

Almond has opened L&W Market, a takeout emporium in Bridgehampton featuring the restaurant’s own creations as well as items from South Fork farms and other purveyors.
Almond has opened L&W Market, a takeout emporium in Bridgehampton featuring the restaurant’s own creations as well as items from South Fork farms and other purveyors.
Isabel Carmichael
Many of the delicious things Almond is known for to go
By
Isabel Carmichael

Since Friday, South Forkers have been given the chance not only to continue eating very well indeed at the Almond bistro on Ocean Road and Main Street in Bridgehampton, but also to take home food that has been prepared in the Almond kitchen from the new L&W Market next door.

Eric Lemonides and Jason Weiner, business partners and co-owners since 2001 of Almond, have expanded their endeavors to include a market that sells many of the delicious things Almond is known for.

Mr. Weiner, Almond’s executive chef, and Jeremy Blutstein, the chef de cuisine, have introduced a line of fermented foods, Kimchi Jews, that includes kimchi, pickled garlic scapes, different fish sauces, sauerkraut, fire cider, and miso. L&W also offers harissa and other Asian-inspired foods that are made in the Almond kitchen. Customers will  find all sorts of prepared foods, thanks to the market’s doubling up with Almond’s kitchen, including sandwiches, lobster salad, green salads, baba ganoush, pickled herring, hummus, sausage, farro tabouleh, curried mussels, smoked fish, rillettes, gravlax, and even marinated octopus salad and roast striped bass.

Various chutneys, caponatas, and murabbas from Le Bon Magot can be bought at the market as well. In addition to sourcing their produce, grain, and protein from the East End, the team carries items from nearby farms such as Quail Hill, Amber Waves, Balsam Farms, and Foster Farms, and cheeses from Art Ludlow’s Mecox Bay Dairy. 

Coffee and pastries baked on site are  available, and, just in case you need a beautiful knife to cut them with, the market is carrying a line of knives made by Dereyk Patterson of East Hampton.

Mr. Weiner’s wife, Almond Zigmund, for whom the restaurant is named, said on Friday that her husband and Mr. Lemonides had spoken of the idea of a market for quite some time. Once the antiques furniture store next door moved out and the space became available, the partners pounced. With some design input from James McChesney, a Southampton architect, they actually built a lot of the market themselves. It is airy and spacious yet cozy, with a mosaic tile floor, black-grouted wall tile, and a pressed-tin ceiling — and a slightly old-fashioned Manhattan feel.

The market will be open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., seven days a week.

Seasons by the Sea: Rest in Peace, Anthony Bourdain

Seasons by the Sea: Rest in Peace, Anthony Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain
Anthony Bourdain
Durell Godfrey
Chef, traveler, writer, father
By
Laura Donnelly

He was a punk, a hoodlum, a bard. He survived years of addiction to heroin and cocaine. He was occasionally snarky and cynical, but never unkind or disrespectful.

Anthony Bourdain was a chef, traveler, writer, father. His departure from our planet is a crushing blow not just to those in the food world, but to anyone and everyone who enjoyed his books and programs.

Did you know he had a blue belt in Brazilian jujitsu? Did you know he had his own publishing imprint (Anthony Bourdain Books, Ecco Press) under HarperCollins? That he wrote and illustrated a series of graphic novels and a crime series in addition to his restaurant exposés and cookbooks from 1995 to 2016?

Anthony Bourdain was born in New York City and grew up in Leonia, N.J. His father was a record company executive, his mother an editor at The New York Times. He spent time in Montauk in his youth and in later years rented a house somewhere on the East End. He would hang out with his good buddy Eric Ripert, the executive chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. They even modeled together for Hamptons magazine in 2012. In the pictures they are lounging around outside Sunset Beach on Shelter Island, both lean and lanky, handsome and relaxed. Their witty repartee goes back and forth: Mr. Ripert mentions Hayground School and his favorite charity events; Mr. Bourdain says he intends to putter all summer and wants to be like Ina Garten.

Mr. Bourdain’s book “Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly” came out of his 1999 New Yorker essay “Don’t Eat Before Reading This.” Everyone in the food world read it. A lot of chefs didn’t like how restaurant kitchens were portrayed — full of cursing, thieving, addiction, and other forms of debauchery. The restaurant where he worked wasn’t fancy. Les Halles was a big brasserie. He once said that if you can survive brunch service (“Three hundred eggs Benedict, not one of them returned!”), you can survive anything. He was prompt for meetings, in fact, always 15 minutes early. “It shows respect,” he pointed out. 

His television career began with “A Cook’s Tour” on the Food Network in 2002. From 2005 to 2015 he was the host/writer for “No Reservations” on the Travel Channel, along with the shorter-lived “The Layover.” In 2013 his “Parts Unknown” debuted on CNN.

“I have the best job in the world. I decide where we go. If I’m not having a good time it’s nobody’s fault. It’s a fault of the imagination.”

He traveled for work more than 200 days of the year, with a skeleton production crew. They would pick up extra help at their various shooting locations around the world.

A month ago, my son started working at CNN. The first office picture he sent me was a black-and-white portrait of Anthony Bourdain in the hallways of the Time Warner Center. It got me to thinking how interesting it was that a mother and son, two different generations, would equally admire this man.

Mr. Bourdain, Tony to his friends, was found by his friend Mr. Ripert in his hotel room in Kaysersberg, Alsace, in France. He had missed dinner the night before, then breakfast. He had hung himself. According to the Centers for Disease Control, more than half of all suicides are not related to depression or mental illness. They are related to stress, loss, substance abuse, and relationship problems. Will we ever know why this peripatetic talented man chose to die? Would it really help if we did?

People often hate journalists after a tragic event because they stick a microphone in your face and ask how you feel. But I wanted to get words and thoughts and reflections from people who knew Tony Bourdain. From his friend Geoffrey Drummond (Eric Ripert’s producer for “Avec Eric” on PBS) I received the following:

“It’s so shocking, sad, and certainly a huge loss of someone with immense talent as a writer, charisma as a performer, and insightful wisdom as a commentator. Tony saw food and cooking not so much as an end product but a medium to explore and present people, places, culture and politics through the plates of food they shared with him, and his audience. Having worked with Julia Child, who was a great cook, writer, beloved and iconic TV personality, I see Anthony Bourdain as our contemporary — iconic and iconoclastic. A true and deep loss not just for fans of food, but the world.”

From Chris Cuomo, a colleague of Mr. Bourdain’s at CNN:

“I am not a foodie per se, and so when Bourdain asked me about personal passions, I said ‘my family.’ He was like, ‘no kidding.’ I said ‘fishing.’ He rolled his eyes. Then I said ‘fighting’ and his eyes went wide. He had just fallen in love with BJJ [Brazilian jujitsu] and whenever I would see him thereafter, we would talk fight training and the love of the grind. That’s the weird thing for me — just weeks before his suicide, he told me how into struggling he was; how he loved fighting through challenges. It’s very sad.”

Mr. Bourdain’s programs won numerous Emmys and a Peabody Award. He enjoyed the road less traveled. He touched on politics in his shows but didn’t judge. He ate fermented shark and warthog anus. He said “your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.” He had guests ranging from Iggy Pop to President Barack Obama.

He loved the “struggle.” Until he didn’t. Rest in peace, dear man, you can never, will never, be replaced.

Click for recipes

News for Foodies: 06.21.18

News for Foodies: 06.21.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Marley and Lennon Ficalora, brothers from Montauk, lifelong vegetarians, and the owners of the urban beachwear retailer Wampum in Bridgehampton, will open a vegan cafe called the Plant Based Coffee Shop inside their store later this month. 

The cafe’s menu has been created by Marley Ficalora, the founder of the Produce Section Challenge, a series of videos and a cookbook that champion a diet of fruits, vegetables, nuts, grains, and legumes. The menu will feature items such as a curried cauliflower bowl, bahn mi with baked tofu, falafel, and sesame noodles. Kombucha and cold brew coffee will be available on tap and served with plant-based creamers and milks made from hemp, oat, chia, and flax seeds.

The food will be prepared daily by Simply Sublime, a health food takeout spot in East Hampton. Upon the cafe’s arrival, which is currently targeted for the end of June, it will be open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day.

Mac and Cheese?

Calissa in Water Mill will hold a “mac and cheese” dinner this evening, featuring pairings of Macallan Scotch whiskeys and various cheeses. The food items include an arugula and Kayseri cheese salad, lamb keftedes with kafteri cheese, and lemon ricotta doughnuts. The dinner is $95 per person, not including tip and tax. Reservations are via Open Table and adding a note declaring interest in participating in the dinner.

Italian in Water Mill

Culaccino, a new restaurant specializing in modern Italian fare, will open in Water Mill Square on Saturday. Featuring an outdoor bar and dining area, it will offer three seatings each evening, at 5:30, 7:30, and 9:30. Entrees include a wild boar chop with Amarone sauce, and sea scallops with teardrop tomatoes, avocado oil, prosecco, and Calabrian chili. 

Seasons by the Sea: Culinary Memoirs

Seasons by the Sea: Culinary Memoirs

Food is the bond that connects us to family, friends, places, and experiences
By
Laura Donnelly

Eric Ripert’s autobiography “32 Yolks” and Peter Gethers’s culinary memoir “My Mother’s Kitchen” are similar in many ways and distinctly different in others. Both men come from prosperous families with strong mothers and colorful fathers. Early influences for Mr. Ripert were the gardens tended by his father and grandparents in the South of France and Andorra, and meeting a chef named Jacques at a very young age. His book is humble and modest, his childhood somewhat harrowing, and it covers his life from early childhood to the moment he first comes to America to work for Jean-Louis Palladin in Washington, D.C.

Mr. Gethers’s book is brilliant and darkly funny at times. It covers his family’s history and a time in his life when his mother was mostly incapacitated by a series of strokes. It was during this time that he attempted to cook her favorite dishes for her, from breakfast to lunch to dinner. The recipes range from the simplest, matzo brei, to the ridiculously complicated, salmon coulibiac from Spago and quail with rhubarb from Yotam Ottolenghi. His mother, suffering from aphasia (loss of speech due to brain damage), comes alive and is able to find her words when her son cooks for her. It is touching, happy, and sad all at once.

Eric Ripert’s father was a banker and his mother owned fashionable boutiques. They divorced when Eric was young, and forever after he pined for his father, who died of a heart attack when he was 11. His mother remarried a man who became a layabout around the house, constantly taunting and occasionally beating the young boy. His mother, after working long days six days a week at her shop, would cook elaborate meals for the family, always with a dessert, starched linens, and fresh flowers. This was the only pleasure in her son’s life: good food. After school, he started hanging out in the kitchen of Chez Jacques. Jacques never put him to work, he just let Eric sit on the counter, gobbling baba au rhum and chocolate mousse and peppering him with questions.

“Proust had his madeleine and because of Jacques, I have my mousse. Every time I dig into a bowl of that chocolate velvet, I am a kid again, running to Chez Jacques after school. It is the taste of friendship. It is the taste of belly laughs, and war stories, and the memory of a man who could jump out of planes and make a leg of lamb with equal amounts of skill and ardor. But more than anything, chocolate mousse is the taste of being welcomed; of Chez Jacques, where for me, the door was always open.”

When his mother and stepfather find out there is no room at a nearby military school, Eric is shipped off to a Catholic boarding school at the age of 8, because he is “turbulent, hyper, ‘espiegle,’ mischievous.” Here, a priest who seems to be a father figure/mentor attempts to molest him. These experiences are interspersed with rhapsodic reveries about dishes and farmers markets and grandparents’ gardens and memorable meals, as if he doesn’t want us to be too traumatized by what he suffered through.

After culinary school and a stint at one restaurant, he ends up in Paris (at the ripe young age of 19) at Joel Robuchon’s Jamin. The time spent there was brutal and punishing; everything had to be made from scratch, twice a day. Mr. Robuchon had already earned two Michelin stars and was aiming for a third. The title of the book, “32 Yolks,” is inspired by Mr. Ripert’s first attempts at hollandaise sauce. He messes it up several times, while Mr. Robuchon screams at him “Thirty-two yolks! Thirty-two yolks!”

After serving time in the military, which he finds exceptionally relaxing compared to the Jamin kitchen, he returns for more abuse and works his way through various stations at the restaurant. Believing it is virtually impossible to accomplish all the mise en place (prep work, “everything in its place”), he starts to hide various prepped vegetables, rabbit terrines, and sauces from his boss. He has constant nightmares about ducks. At one point, Mr. Robuchon tells the chefs to peel individual peas and remove the tiny sprouts inside. He also begins keeping a log of their bathroom breaks. Mr. Ripert cheekily filled in the log: “Ripert: 2:00-2:07, pee-pee. Ripert: 4:27-4:31, caca.” The log disappeared shortly after.

By the end of the book, Mr. Ripert is about to take off for America to cook for the late, great Jean-Louis Palladin in Washington. Perhaps there will be another book from him someday, about his staggeringly long and successful career up to now, as head chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin. What we learn from “32 Yolks” is his philosophy on food and whether you get the best results from your staff by abuse or by encouragement. Mr. Ripert learned from both and he chose the path of honor and encouragement.

Peter Gethers’s mother, Judy, came from a restaurant family. Her father owned Ratner’s, the iconic kosher dairy restaurant on the Lower East Side. But it wasn’t until later in life that she became a cook, teacher, and author. Mr. Gethers, a playwright, editor, screenwriter, producer, and author, wrote this memoir while his mother was slowly fading away from a series of strokes, and eventually cancer. Mother and son always bonded over food. When he was young they would bake cakes together. His was full of mud and random toys. When it was time to bake it, his mother would send him off to nap time. When he awoke, his cake had miraculously turned out perfectly.

When Mr. Gethers starts to prepare his mother’s first favorite meal, in a series of three, she becomes alert and bossy, correcting him on the amount of water to use to soak the matzo. The matzo brei turns out very much to her liking, they eat it together with cherry jam, and she pronounces it “as good as I remember. It felt authentic.” He writes: “Watching her lick the last remaining bit of cherry preserve off a knuckle on her left hand, I must admit, I felt authentic, too.”

His foray into eggs Benedict got a bit more complicated. He hates following directions, apparently. But Judy declared this “delicious.” Another success.

The lunch menu she chose was celeri remoulade, chocolate pudding (a childhood favorite of his made by his nanny, Louise Trotty), Joel Robuchon’s mashed potatoes, and Yotam Ottolenghi’s quail with rhubarb sauce. (At this point I should warn the reader to buy this book for the words, not the recipes, necessarily. They are a bit inaccurate. The remoulade calls for one and a quarter celery roots, but this is too vague, as they come in many sizes. Also, the mashed potato recipe calls for one pound of butter per two pounds of potatoes. Mr. Gethers calls this two sticks of butter, but it’s actually four.)

His mother enjoys the celeri remoulade but declares the mashed potatoes lumpy. Oh, well. Before his next foray tackling her favorite dinner recipes, he takes a knife-skills class. After successfully learning these basics, he goes to his mother’s apartment to demonstrate his newfound talents. “I performed for my mom as if I were an eight-year-old Penn and Teller, amazing my audience with this view into a world of magic where few dared to tread. When I was done, my mom smiled. I’m not sure she was impressed. But I am sure she was pleased.”

The final meal was elaborate and not one that his mother was able to enjoy. But Mr. Gethers learned a lot along the way, about himself, about his mother, and about food. “Food is not a be-all and end-all. It doesn’t provide meaning, though it does provide pleasure. Nothing that provides pleasure can do so in a vacuum. It is sharing our pleasure that provides REAL pleasure.”

At some point in “32 Yolks,” Mr. Ripert says that cooking meat “brings out your soul, fish brings out your elegance,” meaning that meat is pretty much solid and malleable, whereas fish can be delicate and one must be carefully respectful. 

Which brings us to Joe Gurrera’s “Joe Knows Fish.” Mr. Gurrera is the owner of Citarella and this new book is an excellent primer for those who fear buying, seasoning, and cooking seafood. The book is nicely designed and meant to be for beginners, but it would be useful in any kitchen. There are helpful hints called “Joe Says,” a few side dish and sauce recipes, and lots of tantalizing pictures and stories.

While some may know Citarella locally as a convenient and reasonable, well-stocked gourmet store with three locations in our area, it originally began as a small seafood shop on the Upper West Side. When Mr. Gurrera bought it in 1983, he expanded it to include cheeses, meats, produce, and more gourmet items. The rest is history. The Citarella markets throughout the Northeast sell over two million pounds of fish per year.

The best advice in the book? Joe’s Number One rule: “Never overcook your fish! It’s a rookie mistake that inevitably leads to poor results.” Buy this book for your scaredy-cat friends.

Reading “32 Yolks” and “My Mother’s Kitchen” back to back was a true joy. In completely different ways, Mr. Ripert and Mr. Gethers tell us, no, REMIND us, that food is the bond that connects us to family, friends, places, and experiences. Taste is our strongest sense memory, and these gentlemen have shared theirs, from the funny to the difficult, the heartbreaking, and the glorious.

News for Foodies: 06.14.18

News for Foodies: 06.14.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Father’s Day Specials

In honor of Father’s Day on Sunday, Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton will be adding à la carte specials to its brunch and dinner menus. The specials include sea scallop crudo, $20; porchetta, $46, and chocolate cheesecake, $16. 

 The Father’s Day dinner specials at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will include a jumbo shrimp and clam cocktail for $18, poached lobster and hanger steak for $39, and a malted-milk chocolate ice cream sandwich for $12. 

 

Wine Dinner

Next Thursday at 6:30 p.m., the Maidstone in East Hampton will hold a dinner featuring wines from Paumanok Vineyards. On the menu are such offerings as tilefish ceviche, filet mignon, and house-made sorbet. The price is $165 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant. 

 

Happy Hour

Harbor Bistro in East Hampton is offering daily food and drink specials from 5 to 7 p.m. The $6 drinks include a selection of wines, “sunset rum punch,” and fresh fruit sangria. The $8 food menu features clams, oysters, Greek salad with flatbread, chicken potstickers, and house-made guacamole with chips.

News for Foodies: 06.07.18

News for Foodies: 06.07.18

Il Mulino’s new East Hampton location opened for business last weekend with a bright, contemporary interior.
Il Mulino’s new East Hampton location opened for business last weekend with a bright, contemporary interior.
Tatiana Villamil
Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

All About Oysters

Amber Waves Farm in Amagansett has planned a series of oyster tastings, starting this evening from 5 to 7 p.m. and continuing on the next three Thursdays in June. Fresh oysters, supplied by the West Robins Oyster Company in Southampton, will be served with beverages and the farm’s house-made mignonettes. The cost is $75. Later this summer, representatives of West Robins will teach a three-week course on creating a sustainable oyster culture and on proper shucking techniques. The fee for the course is $450. 

 

Il Mulino Is Open

A branch of Il Mulino, a chain of upscale Italian restaurants in Manhattan, Las Vegas, Nashville, and other major cities, opened in Wainscott last weekend. The dinner menu includes langostino and Dover sole as well as classic Italian dishes such as chicken parmigiana, veal piccata, and assorted pizzas and pastas. The restaurant plans to offer lunch service in July.

 

Montauk Great White

The Montauk Wine Company is offering two new wines for the 2018 season, aptly named Montauk Summer Rosé and Montauk Great White. The wines are crafted from grapes grown on the North Fork. The rosé is a blend of syrah, malbec, and merlot grapes; the white blends viognier, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and riesling. The wines are available at wine shops throughout the Hamptons and in New York City.