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Recipes

Long Island Larder: California Peaches, 2003

Peaches are so delicate and easily bruised, it’s obvious that the beauties from California cannot possibly be tree-ripened. But they are fine for making jams, conserves, and chutneys — anything cooked.

Jul 31, 2003
Long Island Larder: The Edible Herald

Asparagus are the crocuses of vegetables, the very first edible herald of spring. Of course, like most exotic luxuries, asparagus can be seen in fancy food shops as early as the January white sales.

Mar 27, 2003
Butternut squash at Amber Waves Farm market in Amagansett Butternut Galette

Galettes are rustic French open-topped pastries, usually made with fruits. Inspired by some reading I was doing on the food of Southwest France, where most of France's pumpkins are grown, I decided to try putting the two ideas together for something new to do with pumpkin or its many cousins (Hubbards, butternut, acorn, Turk's turban, or sweet dumpling [Delicata] squashes).

Nov 9, 2000
Roasted Baby Pumpkins

Get your little pumpkins right away because they will all be spoiled if they freeze in the field and they keep wonderful at garage temperature. A gang of them arranged on a huge white platter with sprigs of kale for garnish are almost as spectacular as the bird.

Nov 12, 1998
Smoke-Roasted Turkey

While I like all poultry headed for the smoker, gas grill, or oven to be brined at least for a few hours, for a more emphatic flavoring, a brine cum marinade works wonderfully. It's also useful when you don't want to cook your bird for a couple of days. This turkey was left in its marinade in a large covered canner (on the floor of a near-freezing garage colder than my refrigerator) for three days. Carved in thin, small slices this 15-pounder goes a long, long way for a buffet or cocktail party fare.

Dec 5, 1996
Juniper-Rubbed Turkey on the Grill

Turkey on the grill is perhaps my favorite route to a juicy, brown bird - it's fast too. But the stuffing must be cooked separately via oven casserole, which I always do anyway, since even a stuffed bird never has enough stuffing to satisfy my family and friends.

Nov 21, 1996
Long Island Larder: Oxtail Stew, 1991

War news, which increasingly comes in curt briefings from the Pentagon, rivets the country's attention and also serves to distract citizens from what is either a recession or a depression depending on whose ox is being gored. Sales of yellow ribbon may be up around here but nothing much else is. And February. Can't something be done about this wretched month — like shortening it to 10 days?

Feb 7, 1991
Long Island Larder: Vegetarian Delights

“By the beginning of the 18th century . . . all the arguments which were to sustain modem vegetarianism were in circulation.” — Keith Thomas, “Man and the Natural World,” 1983

These arguments were: that slaughtering animals has a brutalizing effect on human behavior; that consuming meat is bad for the health; that it inflicts untold suffering on humans’ fellow creatures; that it is simply wrong to kill any animals at all (the dominant view of theologians from the Renaissance on was, and I believe still is, that animals were created by God for the benefit of mankind).

Aug 2, 1990
Green Bean and Garbanzo Salad

This combination of fresh haricot beans and dried garbanzos (chickpeas) is beautiful, nutritious, and delicious. Even the crankiest of eaters will find nothing to object to.

Aug 2, 1990
Long Island Larder: Grilled Pork Loin and Leg of Lamb

This amazingly tender and juicy pork roast is the result of cooking at high temperature a relatively short time in a covered Weber grill, and butterflied leg of lamb has been seen on fashionable grills for over 20 years but whole leg of lamb is far less commonplace.

Jul 5, 1990
Long Island Larder: How to Cook Your Catch

Trout with bacon and vinegar sauce is a sophisticated dinner version of an old-time fisherman's breakfast, while flounder takes on an interesting flavor and appearance when stuffed with herbs.

May 17, 1990
The Long Island Larder: Cheesecake Three Ways

“Man is an epicure just as he is an artist, a scholar, a poet. The palate . . . is as delicate and susceptible of training as the eye or ear, and equally deserving of respect.”  — Guy de Maupassant, Madame Husson’s Rose-king 

Apr 5, 1990