The restaurant, part of one of the hotels owned by Andre Balasz, is on the very edge of Crescent Beach on Shelter Island with an unimpeded water view. It is built on three stepped rooftops and looks as if it has been scooped up by a tornado. The first rooftop is a bar, which is always open late, usually to 4 a.m. on weekends. The next step is a dining room with a roof but no sides, and the last step, literally in the treetops, is a deck topped only by strings of lanterns. The menu tends toward the South of France, with bouillabaisse, grilled lobster, filet mignon au poive, and moules frites. The place is fairly expensive: steak frites is $39, and a side of haricots verts sets you back $10.