It seemed that Jeff Resnick, Tora Matsuoka, and Jesse Matsuoka’s Phao Thai Kitchen was as popular as their Japanese restaurant, Sen, next door. But they surprised Sag Harbor by thoroughly renovating the space and launching a new “gastropub.” The look is rustic and the goal is “refined” comfort food. Bacon is house-cured, tomato jam is made up, and fresh cherries are marinated with spices for drinks. You’re not apt to find bacon-wrapped quail with black-eyed peas and kale or sea scallops over grits with yellow curry, frisee, and bacon on nearby restaurant menus. Chicken confit with scallion waffles is another specialty. The executive chef, Gilberto Chico, intends to support local farms and make the Cuddy a favorite with the year-round community.