A Summer That Never Was
By Kate Maier
(Aug. 20, 2009) A short summer season could spell tough times ahead for restaurant employees who rely on tips earned during the summer months to get through the winter. Although in August most South Fork restaurants are bustling, the season started late, and things have been different here than in years past.
With a washout in June and so-so weather in July, “it really just started feeling like summer I think two weeks ago,” said Mike Mannino, the owner of World Pie in Bridgehampton. “Business really has been great, I think last week was the best week we’ve had,” he said. Like many business owners, he attributed sluggish sales in the typically busy months of June and July more to the weather than the economy.
Gratuity-dependent workers have griped that this is the “summer that never happened” for weeks, and although August is in full steam, it may not be enough to save those who live off unemployment checks when seasonal businesses close in the fall. Even with seats full in July, front-of-the-house staff used to turning tables over several times in one night have been lucky to get a second seating in some cases, and full reservation books are for many a thing of the past. But with the possibility of walk-in customers, managers have been reluctant to cut staff, so more employees are sharing tips that don’t measure up to the numbers earned in previous years.
There are, of course, some places that are still hopping, but even in these cases, things have changed. “I think what we’ve done at Nick and Toni’s to address people eating more as a group is that we have added four or five items that are geared toward sharing at the tables, like antipasti or mini-lobster rolls,” said Christie Cober, a general manager who oversees the group of restaurants that include Nick and Toni’s, Rowdy Hall, La Fondita, and Townline BBQ.
At Nick and Toni’s, long revered as one of the more swanky celebrity-sighting hotspots in town, customers with money to spend are cutting back as it becomes less fashionable to flaunt one’s wealth. “I think we’re probably not seeing as much money being spent on really, really expensive wine, but people are still buying wine,” said Ms. Cober. “I think people are being conscious, but people are still on vacation and they’re still having a summer.”
What they are doing with that summer has varied, however. As many in the real estate business have noted, rentals have been shorter this year — visitors who once booked for two months have rented for one, and others who might have booked for a month in the past are going for two-week intervals.
Chimene Visser, a manager and sommelier at Rugosa restaurant who has worked at other spots including Fresno and Della Femina in years past, said she has noticed fewer large parties of early-30-somethings that typically make up the share of the house crowd. “They’re choosing to stick to Amagansett and spend their money there,” she suspected.
According to reports from employees in the hamlet, the singles that tend to roam the late-night scene between the Stephen Talkhouse, Meeting House, and Indian Wells Tavern have been out in full force this year, apparently more willing to spend their money on booze than creme brulée.
In its first season at the space formerly occupied by Almoncello on Montauk Highway, Rugosa was one of many restaurants that opted to extend specials, normally reserved for the quieter months, into the summer to attract customers this season. A $30 prix fixe is available there daily between 5:30 and 7 p.m.
In the Montauk Harbor area, employees at Gosman’s and Lenny’s on the Dock who drink at Salivar’s after hours have duly noted that the season has been a flop. Their waitstaff neighbors at Dave’s Grill, however, have issued no complaints, and rumor has it that they are still making as much as $400 on a busy weekend night.
“We probably have a lower check average, but things have been good and things have been steady,” said Jimmy Hewitt at the Shagwong in town. This is the first time in the 40 years that the place has offered a “recession special,” which consists of spam, baloney, and Fluffernutter sandwiches selling for less than $2 apiece.
“I’m not sure if it’s more of a joke but they are selling,” he said.
In the meantime, customers are matching Mr. Hewitt’s creativity to keep costs down. One waitress reported that on more than one occasion, she has seen diners order less expensive soft drinks and covertly pour their own booze into their glasses while sitting at the table. One way or another, guests are getting by this summer.