THE TASTE OF HISTORY

"For generations, most of New York City's fish supply has come from Long Island to Fulton Market," the East Hampton Ladies Village Improvement Society's 70th anniversary cookbook authors noted. "To appreciate fish you must get it fresh. It should jump right from the sea into the pan."

While the cookbook contains recipes of all sorts from a variety of high-profile residents and visitors, one wonders if the following might not have found its way to the White House dining room:

NEW ENGLAND FISH CHOWDER

1 cup chopped celery
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 qt. milk
2 Tbsps. butter
2 lbs. haddock
2 oz. salt pork, diced
2 onions, sliced
4 large potatoes, diced
1 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Simmer the haddock in two cups of water for 15 minutes. Drain. Reserve broth. Remove bones from the fish.

Saute the diced pork until crisp, remove, and set aside.

Saute the onions in pork fat until golden brown. Add fish, potatoes, celery, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Pour in the fish broth, plus enough boiling water to make 3 cups of liquid.

Simmer for 30 minutes. Add milk and butter and simmer for 5 minutes more.

Serve the chowder sprinkled with pork dice. Serves 6.

Mrs. John F. Kennedy
(Jacqueline Bouvier)