THE TASTE OF HISTORY

"By guy, that's good pie!" According to the Ladies Village Improvement Society's 70th anniversary cookbook, the remark is "in the vernacular of old East Hampton."

It must have been heard with great frequency years ago, the authors note, "when the men of the family sat down to pies filled, according to season, with pieplant (rhubarb), strawberries, blackberries, huckleberries, beach plum, wild grapes, cranberries, apples, homemade mincemeat, or pumpkin, with lemon meringue for a special treat."

Speaking of the season, it is nearly time for:

CRANBERRY PIE

2 cups cranberries, split
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 Tbsps. flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup cold water
2 Tbsps. butter
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
1 uncooked pie crust in a 9-inch pan

Combine flour, salt, and sugar. Sprinkle pie crust with two tablespoons of the mixture. Mix the remainder with cranberries and water.

Place in pie shell, dot with butter, and sprinkle with nutmeg. Cover with lattice-top crust.

Bake in a hot 475-degree oven for 15 minutes, then at 375 degrees for an additional 35 minutes.

The pie can be reheated.

Mrs. Perry B. Duryea Jr.