THE TASTE OF HISTORY

"This is not just another cook book. It is actually local history from a domestic point of view," wrote the East Hampton Ladies Village Improvement Society in introducing the 10th edition of its cookbook, published in 1965.

An example, from the chapter on seafood:

"The shellfishery was the principal industry of the village of Springs until very recent years, when an influx of artists and writers had made real estate important there. In 1948, when East Hampton Town celebrated its 300th anniversary, Springs organized, as part of the celebration, a tremendous clambake on high land overlooking Gardiner's Bay. That area is now residential."

That day, they might have served a dish long relished by the throngs attending Springs's annual Fisherman's Fair:

FRANEY'S MOULES MARINIERES

3 shallots, coarsely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 lbs. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 cup dry white wine
4 sprigs parsley
1/2 tsp. thyme
3 Tbsp. butter

Combine the wine, shallots, parsley sprigs, bay leaf, thyme, black pepper, and butter in a kettle. Bring to a boil and simmer about three minutes. Add the mussels to the kettle, cover, and cook quickly over high heat. Occasionally shake the kettle up and down, holding the lid tightly in place. This will re-distribute the mussels so they will cook evenly.

Cook five to 10 minutes, or until the mussels are opened. Discard any mussels that do not open. Using a large spoon, dip the mussels into soup plates. Spoon the cooking liquid over the mussels and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Serve immediately with hot, buttered French bread, rubbed with garlic if desired.

Yield: About four servings.

The late Mr. Franey, of Springs, was for 25 years head chef of Le Pavillon in New York (its East Hampton summer satellite was the Hedges). He wrote a column for The New York Times, "60-Minute Gourmet," for years, as well as a series of cookbooks, collaborating on several with East Hampton's Craig Claiborne.