THE TASTE OF HISTORY

The East Hampton Ladies Village Improvement Society cookbook, revised and published for more than 100 years, contains in its 1939 edition one section with particularly hearty contributions. The authors aptly dubbed it "Men's Recipes," and included this from a well-known man of the sea:

MONTAUK STRIPED BASS WITH GINGER SNAP SAUCE

For the fish:

4 lbs. striped bass cut in 2-inch steaks
1 qt. water
2 sliced onions
1 celery root
1 carrot
2 bay leaves
6 pieces allspice
6 cloves
Boil the bass in the water with the vegetables and spices. When it is done, take it out of the liquid, strain, and return to the pot.

For the sauce:

6 prunes, cooked
rind and juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 lb. ginger snaps
1 Tbsp. butter
1/2 cup raisins, cooked
1/2 cup almonds
1/4 cup Karo corn syrup

Combine the ingredients. When the sauce comes to the boiling point, thicken with butter and flour which have been browned together. Pour sauce over the fish and serve hot or cold.

Frank Tuma