THE TASTE OF HISTORY

The East Hampton Ladies Village Improvement Society named its seventh cookbook, published in 1939, "Home, Sweet Home." East Hampton, of course, was the boyhood home of the song's composer, John Howard Payne, whose family house overlooks the village green where for decades the L.V.I.S. held its annual fair.

The book had a "dual purpose," according to its introduction: "to preserve the best and most typical Eastern Long Island dishes, and to add to the funds with which the L.V.I.S. carries on its work of caring for village trees and greens, and other worthy projects."

A new, but "most typical" recipe:

CLAM CHOWDER
LONG ISLAND STYLE

2 qts. hard clams
1 doz. large potatoes, diced
3 good slices salt pork
2-3 good-sized onions
1 can of tomatoes
Parsley
Carrots, celery, and green pepper, if desired.

Dry out the salt pork in a kettle; take out the slices and dice. Cut up onions and brown in the pork fat. Put in potatoes, with rather more than enough water to cover. Cook slowly, not to burn, about a half hour.

When cooked, add a can of tomatoes, cutting up the large pieces, and cook with the potatoes a few minutes, making altogether about two quarts of liquid.

Put clams through a grinder, saving the juice. Add the clam juice to the mixture and let it boil up once or twice.

Add the chopped clams last of all; let simmer.

This is even better the second day. The parsley, carrots, celery, and green pepper (just a little of each) are optional but very good. They would be put in with the potatoes.

Mrs. Arnold Rattray