This tidy, stylish but unpretentious, favorite on Shelter Island is well worth the cost of a ferry ride. Starters include oysters on the half shell, scallop ceviche, ahi tuna sashimi, and steamed clams. Meat eaters will find a nice selection of steak, chops, and/or lamb. There will usually be a couple of pasta dishes and inventively prepared seafood for entrees, such as miso-glazed salmon, game hen, and moules frites. Monday is traditionally bouillabaisse night, though it's worth phoning ahead just to check before making the trip . . . and securing a table. There is a nice little food market behind the cafe.