A sister restaurant of the Red/Bar Brasserie in Southampton and Beacon in Sag Harbor, Fresno stages wine dinners and tastings. The chef, Gretchen Menser, concentrates on a relatively small menu and on expert preparation. Scottish salmon as an entree comes with couscous, fennel, olives, and smoked tomato sauce, while salmon tartare is an appetizer. Fennel also appears in a salad, with radish, pink grapefruit, and mustard vinaigrette. You can eat at the bar, a friendly gathering place, or on a patio on warm nights. The main room is airy, with long banquettes along one way, and you can hear what your dinner mates have to say.