Fishbar is tucked on the harbor side of Gone Fishing Marina, a good haul down East Lake Drive toward Gin Beach. The sunsets alone are worth the drive. Jennifer Meadows, the chef, isn't afraid of innovation. Hoppin' John Scallops are served with Jasmine rice, smoked bacon, and pesto or, as an appetizer, scallops come with squash blossoms and chaarred tomato. There are burgers, fish tacos, tilefish in beurre blanc, and a shitake mushroom risotto with ramps and truffle oil. See-through windscreens allow guests that outdoors, dockside feeling without the chill. Private pilots can fly into the Montauk Airport and hoof it across the street. Just because it's at a marina, don't expect low prices. The lobster roll was $26 last time we looked and cioppino for two goes for $86. Early bird specials, between 4:30 and 6 p.m., are a good deal.